8mm Forum: Tape Or Cement Splices

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Topic: Tape Or Cement Splices

Chris Quinn
Master Film Handler

Posts: 372
From: England, Bedfordshire.
Registered: Nov 2003

posted March 22, 2004 03:09 AM

Was just wondering what the consensus was on using cement or tape on splicing.
I use a CIR tape splicer; it is quick easy and gives me good splices, is there is anyone using cement, and why?

Chris. [Razz]

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The other half thinks i'm up to something. Shes right of course.

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Steve Klare
Film Guy

Posts: 7016
From: Long Island, NY, USA
Registered: Jun 2003

posted March 22, 2004 09:19 AM

I prefer to splice with cement wherever I can get away with it (as in acetete based film) because a well done cement splice is stronger and for some reason I can never be mid-blink when the tape splice Zig Zag passes through the gate. I realize nobody else in the room gives it a second thought, but it bothers me. (Maybe if it was somebody else's film, I wouldn't know there was a splice so I wouldn't look for it!)

I've found that tape splices don't hold up over the long haul. The adhesive gradually loses it's stickyness, and the splice spreads.

All that being said, the existing splicing cement doesn't work at all on Polyester stocks, so in those instances, it's either tape or forget about it!

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All I ask is a wide screen and a projector to light her by...

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Ronnie Coeuhant
Film Handler

Posts: 51
From: San Jose, CA USA
Registered: Jan 2004

posted March 22, 2004 10:05 AM

A good cement splice is strong, almost invisible, and will run through the projector smooth. Good cement splicers include Hammann, Zeiss Ikon, and Bolex. The Hammann and Zeiss cuts the film instead of grinding it.

I bathe my films regularly with FilmRenew. Tape splices will not hold with this solution.

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Tony Milman
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1336
From: United Kingdom
Registered: Jun 2003

posted March 22, 2004 01:21 PM

Ronnie.

Why do you bathe your films?

Tony

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Tony

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Steve Klare
Film Guy

Posts: 7016
From: Long Island, NY, USA
Registered: Jun 2003

posted March 22, 2004 02:13 PM

Perhaps he doesn't like dirty movies!

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All I ask is a wide screen and a projector to light her by...

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Ronnie Coeuhant
Film Handler

Posts: 51
From: San Jose, CA USA
Registered: Jan 2004

posted March 22, 2004 05:24 PM

I use FilmRenew sold by Urbanski Films. This is only for films that are brittle and showing signs of mildew or fungus growth. The film is immersed in the solution for 2 weeks in the metal can. Then I use my Elmo ST-180 with a film cleaner attachment to wipe the film clean and remove the excess solution.

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Joe Taffis
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1592
From: United States
Registered: Jun 2003

posted March 22, 2004 10:24 PM

Chris, I don't mean to knock cement splices because i've never used them and maybe they're better, but i've been using ciro(2 frame)tape splices on my films since they were available around here; must be back in the late 1970's or early '80's(replacing the "Quik-Splice"(4 frame)tape splices already in place on my films to that point). When made well,they too are strong, hold up well, are hardly noticeable, and pass through the projectors I have used(Kodak, B&H, Chinon, and Elmo)quietly. I'm not just talking splicing 200 and 400 footers together and such...i'm talking MANY, MANY splices used to edit MANY, MANY scenes in super 8 features and shorts that I shot as far back as the early 1970's. AND...they're still just as good when I show the films today, AND...i've never had to bathe them in anything.... [Wink]

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Joe Taffis

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David Michael Leugers
Master Film Handler

Posts: 264
From: Fairfield, OH, USA
Registered: Feb 2004

posted March 27, 2004 09:28 AM

I prefer cement splicing, if only because to me they are much more fun to make. Using a good B+H (later known as a Maier Handcock) splicer it is just so enjoyable to make a good splice. I too like to treat my films with FilmRenew, Vitafilm and other products. Cement splices are best for those film treatments. However, when you cannot use a cement splice due to polyester film or plastic leader, a good tape splicer works nicely too. For prints I like the metal Fuji splicer, for originals I prefer the Wurker for nearly invisible splices at edit points.

David M. Leugers

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Live Free or Die

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