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Author Topic: 8 and super 8 transfer?? Please help!
John Doxsee
Junior
Posts: 8
From: Fort Wayne, IN, USA
Registered: Dec 2013


 - posted December 25, 2013 10:08 PM      Profile for John Doxsee   Email John Doxsee   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi I have taken on the tasking converting a bunch of old 8mm and super 8 films to digital format. I have a Bell & Howell 471A projector, a cheap telecine (got it on eBay seems cheap low quality) and a SD Sony camcorder to recapture projected film. Playing with some of the exposure from auto to manual has deffinately helped with the strobing effect. My biggest problem right now is really bright whites and figuring out are my projector and camera really very good candidates for doing this job. I probably have 75 to 100 of these to dupe. Any hints or tricks would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks
John

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Winbert Hutahaean
Film God

Posts: 5468
From: Nouméa, New Caledonia
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted December 25, 2013 10:26 PM      Profile for Winbert Hutahaean     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Remember your films is either 24 fps or 18 fps while old video cameras is around 30 fps. This creates flickers.

You have to get the camera with at least 24 fps capabilities. This will remove those flickers (strobes). Many later camera now hsa this feature.

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Winbert

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John Doxsee
Junior
Posts: 8
From: Fort Wayne, IN, USA
Registered: Dec 2013


 - posted December 26, 2013 12:52 PM      Profile for John Doxsee   Email John Doxsee   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Pretty sure my camera only does 30fps. Any easy to use editing software that can correct the flicker by manipulating the frames in the captured film. Does the projector make that big of a difference. Better results with a telecine or screen?LED back light or the standard?

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John Yapp
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 148
From: Telford England.
Registered: Dec 2011


 - posted December 26, 2013 01:33 PM      Profile for John Yapp   Email John Yapp   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
your lamp is 80w, correct? That's very bright,(I use 20w for transfers), and will definitely cause hotspots in your transfers, as you have found. Generally, converters aren't that great and you may find you get better results from projecting directly onto a white wall or a sheet of white a4 paper. If you can diffuse the light from the lamp, your results will improve further, but realistically, your results will be limited with this projector, unless you can change the light source. Look for a cheap variable speed Eumig if you can, which will take a lower wattage bulb, as they are very adaptable for telecine.

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John Doxsee
Junior
Posts: 8
From: Fort Wayne, IN, USA
Registered: Dec 2013


 - posted December 26, 2013 10:22 PM      Profile for John Doxsee   Email John Doxsee   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yes it is 80w, and it actually just blew!! Needless to say now I will either need to find a new source of light for this B&H which I really don't think would be a problem for me to retrofit a 20w lamp into. Or what you suggested about the Eumig. Are there other features or speed controls that it would offer making it a better choice or was it mentioned simply because of its ability to readily accept a variety of bulbs.

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John Yapp
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 148
From: Telford England.
Registered: Dec 2011


 - posted December 27, 2013 03:25 AM      Profile for John Yapp   Email John Yapp   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The eumig's usually offer variable speed control which is vital to reduce flicker. Here in the UK, many people use the 800 series Eumigs as by changing the mains frequency to the 60cycles setting, they can achieve the speed of 16.667 FPS, which gives no flicker when using a PAL camcorder. In the US, I believe 20FPS is recommended for NTSC recorders, which is within the normal speed range of the projector. The lamps are also easy to change out and the lampholder will take an MR16 type lamp at a push. I am currently experimenting with a 3W LED lamp which gives pleasing results and has the added bonus that if the film should snag in the projector for any reason, it will not burn due to the cold running of the lamp. I'm sure other forum members will have their own suggestions for suitable projectors for this kind of work too.

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John Doxsee
Junior
Posts: 8
From: Fort Wayne, IN, USA
Registered: Dec 2013


 - posted December 27, 2013 08:08 AM      Profile for John Doxsee   Email John Doxsee   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I'm going to be heading out in a bit to look for some suitable bulb options to play with. Planning on a standard 20w and 3 and 4 watt led as they should be relatively equal lumen value. I really like the idea of a long lasting bulb that won't burn film. Thanks for your input.

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Phil Mitchell
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 144
From: Melbourne, Australia
Registered: Aug 2013


 - posted January 10, 2014 03:41 AM      Profile for Phil Mitchell   Email Phil Mitchell   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi, ,can I add a similar query
as I am doing same, however I am not using a Digital video camera, have tried that, but found a CCR Camcorder seems to do a better job, certainly has more options than my Digital camewra, only one issue still bugging mean, what causes the halo effect when sunlight hits a bright object, liek someone wearing a bight shirt? Fiddlign around with White Balance and Iris settings seems to help, but not quite. Is that strobing? not sure of correct term, it's almost a slight blur off objects, mainly people, effect, What can adjust that if anything? Can Adobe Preimiere editing sofwtare do anything about it or other video editors? I'm using two projectors Eumig S912 and a Sankyo S600, find the Sankyo a lot kinder on film. Both I run at 18fps and if camera is at 1/50 shutter speed I don't get any flickering. Thanks in advance Phil

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