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Topic: Core gate the friendly version
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Osi Osgood
Film God
Posts: 10204
From: Mountian Home, ID.
Registered: Jul 2005
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posted February 19, 2014 12:45 PM
I will address this sometime in the near future (and yes, with photo's), but I am quite busy at this time with ...
Two music videos
One short film (10 minute production, "Wilding Whispered Entertainment"s very first actual short film!)
Selling a script in "Hollywoodland!"
... and trying to take care of a very sick little baby girl.
I will mention ahead of time, (and I didn't mention this before, which might have caused some confusion), my "coring apparatus" is only part of the set-up, the other part is my CHINON 9500 hundred, which supplies the "motor" for uncoring, while I use the small "handle" attachment, (well it's really not a handle, something I super glued to the Technicolor cartridge platter), to do the re-coring.
I will get to this, but don't be too annoyed if I don't get to it too soon. This other work takes up literally all my time.
What folks don't realize, is that I have an approximate 45 minute time limit to doing anything on the internet, which is sued to comment on here, as well as do ebay business ect.
So, patience please, I really do have other priorities.
OSI
P.S. Oh, I'm actually thinking about making it a short You Tube video, to actually show the process. If I do it that way, I'll simply put a link to the video.
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"All these moments will be lost in time, just like ... tears, in the rain. "
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Osi Osgood
Film God
Posts: 10204
From: Mountian Home, ID.
Registered: Jul 2005
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posted February 20, 2014 12:56 PM
oh!
Dino, until I can get that video (or photo's) done, when re-coring, I wind the film becak onto the "coring apparatus". I the take a small amount of tape and place it on the cored film, and then turn that apparatus upside down, causing the film to drop, unspoiled, onto the countertop (or where I happen to be at), I then remove that tape and before doing the final taping up, I simply pull the film, not too tightly, in order to tighten the overall core. However, as I am winding it back on, I also wind it fairly tightly as, sometimes, if you try to tighten it when you are done with the whole reel (I have learned this by trial and error), you can get what I would call a "warp" somewhere in the middle of the core, and then you have to unwind it all the way down to wherever the warp is, and recore from that point.
You know, the funny thing is, with all I have stated, over a period of a week or two on these two series of posts, a person should have a complete perspective as to how this is done, with or without photo, but photos will come. ![[Smile]](smile.gif)
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"All these moments will be lost in time, just like ... tears, in the rain. "
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Michael O'Regan
Film God
Posts: 3085
From: Essex, UK
Registered: Oct 2007
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posted February 20, 2014 01:33 PM
quote:
...I simply pull the film, not too tightly, in order to tighten the overall core.
![[Eek!]](eek.gif)
Say it ain't so, Joe....!
Cinch marks!!!
If you did that to a print, then you've most likely damaged the print, as any collector will tell you. Just to be on the safe side, you really should recheck those prints, Osi.
[ February 20, 2014, 04:38 PM: Message edited by: Michael O'Regan ]
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Osi Osgood
Film God
Posts: 10204
From: Mountian Home, ID.
Registered: Jul 2005
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posted February 21, 2014 12:30 PM
I thought that too, Micheal, so I checked a number of prints that I have cored, (this is in the distant past), and I have never seen a bit of damage to any of the prints.
Besides, it's not a harsh pull or anything like that, and usually, the way I core, it's usually not necessary.
In fact, I think that the only times where it has ever been problematic, is with old optical sound airline features, which are on polyester stock (in large part) and because of the optical soundtrack, are coated with something that I forget at the moment (the chemical) which is supposed to cause the prints to slide through the large cassette system more smoothly, it also caused problems for coring.
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"All these moments will be lost in time, just like ... tears, in the rain. "
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Michael O'Regan
Film God
Posts: 3085
From: Essex, UK
Registered: Oct 2007
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posted February 21, 2014 12:54 PM
quote:
I thought that too, Micheal, so I checked a number of prints that I have cored, (this is in the distant past), and I have never seen a bit of damage to any of the prints.
...and following this check, did you recore them again using the same method?
Anyway, it's pretty obvious that you cannot vouch for the condition of any print which you recored using the method desribed. If you pull those prints, even a small amount, you WILL most likely cause cinch marks - that's a fact. There's a slim chance you might not on individual prints, but you can never be sure. Therefore, as you must be able to see by now, any prints which you have recored in the way you describe, and are now on sale or auction may have these marks. Any collector will agree that this is the case.
quote:
...the way I core, it's usually not necessary.
Well, you described the way you recore and this was described as being a normal part of the routine.
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Michael O'Regan
Film God
Posts: 3085
From: Essex, UK
Registered: Oct 2007
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posted February 22, 2014 12:29 PM
I, too, am looking forward to seeing this apparatus in action. The other factor which intrigues me is how that glued handle works. For a good tight wind, constant and even winding is necessary, but, if my perception of what Osi has described is correct, one would have to stop the wind or at least remove one's hand once in every turn, in order to get out of the way of the film. Awkward to say the least.
C'mon, Osi, let's have a look. Interest is building.
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Michael O'Regan
Film God
Posts: 3085
From: Essex, UK
Registered: Oct 2007
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posted February 22, 2014 01:11 PM
For me, in 16mm, cores are invaluable when buying from the US. Leaving the reels out of the package can quite drastically reduce shipping charges in some cases. Cores are easily handled if one has a split with which to do so.
If it was a title I really wanted and there was no other way, then I'd take Super 8 on cores if:
1) They were tightly wound
2) I had a Super 8 split reel.
However, because the gauge is so thin, I'd be less inclined to deal with Super 8 cored than with the larger gauges.
Osi,
I see you've relisted GWTW again.
I hate to labour the point but it concerns me that, if you recored in the manner you described, there may be cinch marks on the print. That would be very unfair for a buyer to find this out after paying for the print.
[ February 22, 2014, 03:05 PM: Message edited by: Michael O'Regan ]
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