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Topic: Baur T610 motor drive belt replacement.
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Andrew Woodcock
Film God
Posts: 7477
From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012
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posted April 25, 2016 06:44 AM
Ken,it's an issue to fit one on these. They are readily available from various sources including FFR or Edwin here. However...in almost every case, a full cam and claw set up will be required after doing so as you have to part remove the shutter shaft to fit the new belt.
This,9 times out of 10 disturbs the critical claw penetration on these due to the equally critical shaft endfloat set up that governs penetration depth on these.
The service manual also advises to it's own technicians. that each time the shutter shaft is disturbed the claw should be checked for depth of penetration and adjusted as required and a lubrication intervention also is an absolute necessity at this point.
A service manual won't particularly help you here. You need to look at the tutorial I posted out on this work on one of the forums, which included photographs each step of the way.
If adjustments prove necessary upon the shaft re seat after refitting the rear sleeve bearing back into its journal, you will need to part remove the transformer to access the claw adjustment cam mechanism and you will need two special spanners of slim width and jaw size to adjust the two slim lock nuts for the penetration and orbital cam mechanisms.
Given your geographical location Ken, you may want to consider this work in the hands of a specialist like Mr Parsons perhaps?
It can mean putting in quite a few hours to have everything set back to its optimum set up position.
It is also worthy of note here, that the original square belts cannot be obtained now. You will have to settle for a round profile belt now which still work well but obviously does not fit the profile of the vee belt pulley as well as the square profiled original drive belts did.
[ April 25, 2016, 02:58 PM: Message edited by: Andrew Woodcock ]
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"C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"
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Andrew Woodcock
Film God
Posts: 7477
From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012
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posted April 25, 2016 02:13 PM
It is a service item that was meant originally, to only be carried out at recognized service centres by their own engineers and trained professional technicians.
It is often the German way that they do not expect the owners of their equipment to carry out any kind of service to their equipment except to change a lamp and routine cleaning.
If you look at many of the German cars of today, even a headlamp bulb replacement, has to be carried out by them because of the complexity of the assembly and specialized tooling required.
The same can be said for a routine service on BMW's and similar, where the car won't even start if you let the service lapse!
Just like BMW and Mercedes motor cars, we may not like some of the obstacles they place in our path, but the Germans certainly know a thing or two regarding fine engineering!
The Bauer is typical of a German design here Barry. It is complex and quirky but offers fine, and more importantly, refined performance levels.
The T610 is a fine machine indeed, and one that i would gladly recommend to anyone! ![[Wink]](wink.gif)
If you want a projector you can change the main shutter drive belt in under 30 seconds without even removing a cover....
buy a Beaulieu!
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"C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"
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Andrew Woodcock
Film God
Posts: 7477
From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012
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posted April 25, 2016 05:21 PM
It's a trade off here Barry.
The Bauer offers the quietest and smoothest operating system of any Super 8mm projector that I've ever witnessed.
It does this by using a unique design that also requires special silicone lubricants to keep it running as silently as it does.
As projector users in this day and age, the vast majority of us left in the hobby have some electro / mechanical knowledge and skills or else otherwise, a very good technician who we entrust with our machines.
If the machine was only an average performer in use, I'd agree and say the efforts required to keep these running like new would not be worth it.
I doubt there is any experienced user of these out there, who does not feel that these are well worth the extra efforts required to keep them running well, once they have become accustomed to watching their film collections on one of these in the home environment.
Also bear in mind, that if this is a possible issue here to it's end users, and they have to entrust this work here to a specialist, then it is of course possible to slip two replacement belts onto the shaft assembly when carrying out the repair.
Then simply tie one of the belts out of the way to other parts of the frame assembly so next time this is necessary, it is a very simple and quick task to fit the next one.
Personally, for me, part of the challenge and joy of owning one of these, is continually finding even lower running levels of noise that can be achieved on these by finding the peak and exact sweet position of the shafts end float and penetration depth of it's claw.
Let's also not forget here also, that if you fit a decent correct belt, it is many years of regular use before you will ever need fit another.
From the two machines I have, one has its original belt and the other I have changed once only.
I have however, totally removed the shaft on many other occasions for various other reasons, and therefore become very experienced in knowing the set up on these inside and out by now.
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"C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"
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Andrew Woodcock
Film God
Posts: 7477
From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012
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posted April 26, 2016 11:53 PM
Just in addition here to Ken...
I don't wish to scaremonger here. You may well be in a position to carefully lift the rear of the shaft to a minimal amount and slip a belt quickly over the shaft before lowering the back bearing back into place again with minimum disturbance to the claw and nylon cam arrangement.
However, in my experiences of doing this work, it never sounds like the same machine you previously had without doing some kind of fine tuning to the claw mechanism after doing so.
Also, this is the recommended installation advice given out to their own service team for these by the manufacturer and of course, the all important lubrication to the felt pad using silicone oil and special grease for the cam itself.
If it were my machine, I'd use the opportunity to remove the shaft altogether to check such items as shaft journals and spherical sleeve bearings for wear,before lubricating them again.
Clean and remove the old aging grease from the cam itself, inspect and clean both claw springs and claw teeth etc etc.
[ April 27, 2016, 03:48 PM: Message edited by: Andrew Woodcock ]
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"C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"
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