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Topic: Review Wolverine Reels2Digital MovieMaker 8mm film digitizer
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David Brown
Film Handler
Posts: 42
From: Centerville, UT, USA
Registered: Oct 2019
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posted November 21, 2019 08:24 PM
Stan
Thanks for that link. I already have those connectors, and testing them, they fit the Wolverine 2p socket. I still have more orders to be delivered. So far then I will only be short the spacers. Sparkfun is backordered, I believe I will find some at Home Depot.
Looking over the parts and reading the Wolverine_custom_camera_kit-v2.
I might have misunderstood this process.
I guess I don't have a kit since all the parts are provided, less the camera?
Not worried yet and there's no rush.
I have flashed the Wolverine's OS a few times testing altered firmware I found online. Don't bother looking, it's not any better output, for those who might try to find it! It was fairly easy to do, just boot with the new file on the SD card. I had to restore the original firmware.
Does the Hawkeye's OS load in a similar way onto the new board?
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David Brown
Film Handler
Posts: 42
From: Centerville, UT, USA
Registered: Oct 2019
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posted November 24, 2019 04:51 PM
Wolverine Slip Clutch on the takeup reel
OK, now I will rebuild the pulley assembly and test the force needed for the current capstan. After adding the lighter spring I ran the film right from the gate to the takeup reel. All my pulleys came off with the motor.
If more tension is required, a heavier spring can be used.
The takeup reel spindle is held on with two screws. Warning, The 3 retaining clips are the type that often fly across the room during removal. Sometimes they are never found again!
The gear on the end of the shaft is pulled off with fingers.
Too many pictures to upload to this forum!
Takeup Slip Clutch
a long time later........
Stan Good call, "can this change in the takeup reel keep the capstan turning"? NO.
If I were not interested in the capstan, I would be done. I'd leave the takeup spring that I replaced, in. There is enough pull to wrap around 1 or 2 pulleys before the takeup reel, but the film will never stay tight.
It might take a pulling force equal to the original spring to keep the film tight on the capstan and keep it turning. The claw is pushing the film out of the gate with a strong force that pops it off the capstan. The takeup reel doesn't have any force beyond winding the film on the reel.
There is only a fixed amount of space for the compressed spring in the clutch. I have not measured that yet. The first spring I used was longer with thinner wire. A heavier spring I added was thicker than the available space and I had to keep cutting it down. This leaves an unfinished end that must be bent flat.
Cutting the original spring shorter is probably the best choice. But how much shorter? I don't want to lose the option to return to the original setup. I have many springs, but how do I quantify this process for others?
I'd say for Mike, get a lighter spring so the takeup can work without adding jumpy frames. He's not interested in the capstan.
I looked at a compression spring calculator, some of the input I don't have, and it may not even help with a slip clutch. I don't like to add complexity.
I'm out of testing time for a while. I would say to Stan, continue with the new motor, but only if it's fun! [ November 24, 2019, 09:10 PM: Message edited by: David Brown ]
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