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Author
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Topic: RT1 Niggles
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John Whittle
Jedi Master Film Handler
Posts: 791
From: Northridge, CA USA
Registered: Jun 2003
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posted April 16, 2007 09:18 AM
Robert,
Since this is an Elf, there may be slight differences between it and the US Eiki model but anyway--
1. There are two taps on the transformer for the lamp. One at 22 volts and one at 24 volts. If a lead is broken or not connected, then that would account for no lamp at one level. You'll have to track it back from the hi/lo switch to the transformer. Also the hi/lo switch might be bad. No lamp in reverse is a bit strange, but it would likely be the micro switch that is cammed on by the rotary switch. Kinda a mess to dig out and work on.
2. Wobble in the take-up reel is likely the clutch piece (the cork lined drum that rides on the steel drum) either in the cork or the shaft being worn. There is a bushing in the reel arm that should allow a slight amount of play, but not wobble. There should also be a washer under the screw that holds the piece in place. It that's missing, then you'd have excessive play/wobble. That's a special piece so you'd need parts for any of these things if they're bad. Unlikely it's belts. The belt BTW should be clean and dry, the inner cork liner should be lubricated with phonolube (a light grease which was widely used on record changers--if you remember those).
3. Hum is a bit more difficult to track down, but try this. Block the exciter lamp from the pick up when you turn it on. If that solves it, then there is a bad cap in the exciter lamp circuit. It's just as likely that a cover isn't fitted properly and you're getting some ac bleed to the solar cell. There were several different designs of amps used in these over the years and hopefully you have one of the later ones that used descretes for the power stages (the big integrated amps are basically trash if they go). You'll need a schematic to trace it out once you locate the cause as either the exciter lamp circuit or the amp itself. Likely a bad cap in the early stages or the rectifier stages. I think this was the first Eiki that actually had a regulated dc supply to the exciter lamp, if there is a part bad there, then the hum should stay on, if it goes away, then look for a bad shield letting light hit the solar cell.
John
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