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Author Topic: Spools and Splicers
Robert Pitman
Junior
Posts: 24
From: Wales, UK
Registered: Mar 2007


 - posted April 20, 2007 10:51 AM      Profile for Robert Pitman   Email Robert Pitman   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Just got my hands on some spools and cans (Tuscan and Cecolite)
They include:
800 Feet
1200 Feet
1600 Feet

How many spools do you keep as spares?
Is the 1600 Foot reel ample to keep as a take up spool or should I only use a spool relative to the size of the film being shown?
Are they worth selling or is it best to keep hold of them?

I would imagine that I will eventually need a 2200 for larger features.

Also, whats a good budget tape splicer that still has tape available for sale within the UK?

Again, sorry for the amount of questions, but I'm just starting out and really enjoying this new hobby.
Rob

--------------------
Why do transformers hum?
Because they don't know the words.....

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Hugh McCullough
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 156
From: Old Coulsdon. Surrey. UK
Registered: Oct 2006


 - posted April 22, 2007 04:36 PM      Profile for Hugh McCullough   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hello Rob.

Welcome to the world of 16mm.

You will soon find out that it is definitely not a hobby. It is a way of life, often frustrated by non-believers like wives, and girlfriends.
These misguided souls will happily let you suffer even though they know that you just have to have the projector bargain you have just found on ebay. They will insist that the money be better spent on things like shoes for the children, or dare I say, a second dress.

Anyway, to be serious.
Personally I always keep a 2200ft metal spool on the projector take up. It does not matter what size the take off spool is as the tension on the take up should remain constant comesurant with the amount of film on it at the time.
All my spare spools are either 1600, or 2200 foot, and most, but not all, are metal.

Plastic spools are fine but need more care in handling.
They have been known to crack, or split when they get older. They are also prone to static electricity caused by the film rubbing against the sides.
This can then attract dust that will eventually find it's way onto the film, and in the worst cases can cause static discharge strong enough to wipe a portion of magnetic track. Believe me, I know this to my cost.
If you only have optical tracks then this is not a problem.

On the other hand metal spools can get bent. This can usually be corrected by gentle bending. Plastic spools can warp, and it is practically impossible to re- straighten them.
Again metal spools can also, if handled incorrectly, get rough edges that can cut your fingers.

There is really only one tape splicer worth considering. This is the Italian splicer made by Dr Leo Catozzo.
I use a M2 16mm model.
This make is in use in every UK cinema, and tape is readily available.
They are not cheap, but do come up on ebay from time to time.
By the way, there is nothing wrong with using the good old fashioned cement spicers.
These are very much cheaper, film cement is still available, and a well made splice can last longer than it's tape conterpart.

A word of warning. Never, never hold a spool, either plastic or metal, by pinching it between you fingers, and thumb.
At best you will bend it, and at worst damage the edge of the film.

It might also be wise to invest in a rewinder.
This will enable you to run the film edges between your index finger, and thumb, to check for any damaged sprocket holes.
It will also make it easier to apply any film cleaning solution.
Rewinding on the projector is too fast, and most projectors do not have a rewind cut off if the fillm breaks, or when it has finished winding.

Hugh.

--------------------
EIKI Ex 6100 xenon machine.

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Paul Spinks
Master Film Handler

Posts: 453
From: Barking, Essex, UK
Registered: Mar 2006


 - posted April 22, 2007 07:30 PM      Profile for Paul Spinks   Email Paul Spinks   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
You can pick up Kodak Prestape splicers quite cheaply on ebay and the tape patches for 16mm are easily obtained. They are a very cheap alternative to the Dr Leo Catozzo models which are undoubtably the best though very pricey.
Paul.

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Stewart McSporran
Master Film Handler

Posts: 272
From: Glasgow, Scotland
Registered: Nov 2003


 - posted April 23, 2007 05:29 PM      Profile for Stewart McSporran   Email Stewart McSporran   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I concur with Paul. I use Presstapes for repairing perforations and where cement won't hold.

I feel I should point out that this collecting business isn't a way of life - it's an addiction and should really come with a health / wallet warning!

Stewart

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Lee Mannering
Film God

Posts: 3216
From: The Projection Box
Registered: Nov 2006


 - posted April 24, 2007 04:48 AM      Profile for Lee Mannering     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi
I would recommend a CIR tape splicer and I obtained a used one for £10. These are cheap to run using a spool of splicing tape which is cut to join the film on the splicer. You can pay much more for a new one, but if you are patient one may well become available.
Have fun Robert.

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Robert Pitman
Junior
Posts: 24
From: Wales, UK
Registered: Mar 2007


 - posted May 09, 2007 06:28 AM      Profile for Robert Pitman   Email Robert Pitman   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks everyone,
its nice to have somewhere to chat with like-minded people. My wife has now switched off to any mention of cine. I tested this the other day when I had her trapped as a passenger in the car on a long journey. I talked the whole journey about film and questioned her later and guess what, she couldn't remember a thing I was saying.
There you go, proof that its not only men that don't listen...
Rob

--------------------
Why do transformers hum?
Because they don't know the words.....

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