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Topic: Trouble with tape splices

Robert Crewdson
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1031
From: UK
Registered: Jun 2013

posted January 08, 2018 04:50 AM

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I have recently watched two films where some jumpy splices went through; on close inspection I found that they were probably fixed with Jacro tape. There were two problems, one was that the holes were not punched through properly, another was that the tape had stretched, showing a gap between the two ends. I recently had to re-splice more than 12 of these on one film, at least 3 of these had gaps between them. Has anyone else encountered this. I have never had this problem when using pre-perforated tape, such as Presstapes or Hama tape for Super 8.

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Tom Photiou
Film God

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From: Plymouth U.K
Registered: Dec 2003

posted January 08, 2018 06:35 AM

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I have to say i also always use tape splices, and now at last on Super 8 i have obtained a cri splicer, i have never used one before and still have a shed load of quick splice tapes to use as well, i always cut them in halve so they only cover two frames so less interference when projecting.
Will be interesting to see how i get on with the cri [Wink]

[Wink]

Ive got to sort out a 16mm splicer at some point but im not paying a fortune for one [Wink]

[Wink]

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Maurice Leakey
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From: Bristol. United Kingdom
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posted January 08, 2018 09:46 AM

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The CIR tape splicer must be set up correctly.

--------------------
Maurice

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Maurice Leakey
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posted January 08, 2018 09:46 AM

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It is regretable that tape splices made on a CIR punch splicer are often badly made due to the punch not doing its job. This can occuer as the splicer ages with constant use. The cutting pins often become sticky and will need a clean. All splices should inspected before continuing to make another.

Due to age, a film can shrink, often showing a white line in the butt join. This often causes a problem on some projectors as the film at this point becomes "bendy" and causes the film to run without a proper curved loop. This can happen with a 16mm projector which only has two separate sprockets, such as Elfs and Elmos. Very rarely any problems with a Bell & Howell or Bauer/Rank Aldis.

Some joins have obviously not been done with the correct tapes, one suspects perhaps Sellotape has been used. On these occasions the glue oozes out and can make subsequent turns of the film stick together.

The moral here is always inspect a newly acquired film on a rewinder and check every join.

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Maurice

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Terry Sills
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From: Weymouth,Dorset,England
Registered: Oct 2012

posted January 08, 2018 09:57 AM

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Certainly with 16mm splices using a CIR there can be a gap between the edges. It depends on how the splicer was used. I have a CIR M3 and it gives two options on how to make the repair. If you use the main film channel to make the cut on both ends to be joined then there will be a gap. But there is a second channel above the main channel and if you use this channel to make one of the cuts then you will not get this gap, but you may lose a small section of a frame.
8mm CIR's do not have this option but the as I remember you don't get that gap, or if there is one it is very small.

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Maurice Leakey
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posted January 08, 2018 10:01 AM

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The de-luxe model to which Terry refers can be used to join film which has already shrunk.

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Maurice

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Terry Sills
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posted January 08, 2018 10:07 AM

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Yes Maurice that's probably correct, but I wouldn't have thought that they had that in mind when designing the CIR, but then again I have never seen an instruction leaflet for one.

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Robert Crewdson
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From: UK
Registered: Jun 2013

posted January 08, 2018 10:31 AM

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Thank you Maurice, in future I shall closely inspect all splices: one was obviously Sellotape, as it was quite difficult to remove and left a sticky residue.

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Tom Photiou
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From: Plymouth U.K
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posted January 08, 2018 10:32 AM

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If anyone has the instructions for one i would be greatful

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Terry Sills
Phenomenal Film Handler

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From: Weymouth,Dorset,England
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posted January 08, 2018 10:33 AM

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Tom
Just seen this 16mm CIR on eBay and it has that second cut channel that I was referring to. Not a bad price if you can get it for that.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CIR-16mm-Film-Splicer-with-tape-for-use-with-Bell-and-Howell-ELF-Projectors/152857060431?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

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Maurice Leakey
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From: Bristol. United Kingdom
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posted January 08, 2018 10:39 AM

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Tom
This Forum (Film-Tech) has instructions for a CIR to download.
http://www.film-tech.com/warehouse/index.php?category=2#Splicers
By the way. Don't forget to place two or three strips of tape over the perforation section. This is supposed to give a cleaner cut by the perforators.

--------------------
Maurice

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Robert Crewdson
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From: UK
Registered: Jun 2013

posted January 08, 2018 11:19 AM

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Would you believe that only last year a dealer had one for about £60 and it came with several rolls of tape; I took too long in deciding if I really needed it as I use Presstapes. Though my first choice is a traditional cement splice, but they are not always successful, and tape can be used if you find a small tear.

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Terry Sills
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From: Weymouth,Dorset,England
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posted January 08, 2018 12:41 PM

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Well Maurice it seems that we were both wrong. That other trimming channel is for magnetic film. Unfortunately I don't have any, but I do use that trim cut to get a splice without a gap. The model I have is the M3 2T which does not have the micro adjusters, but the M3 Special does. I have the 35mm model with these adjusters and that facility is very useful, but without them on the 16mm splicer I find that using both trim cuts does eliminate that gap. I haven't found another method of eliminating the gap without an overlap of film, which of course is not ideal.

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Tom Photiou
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From: Plymouth U.K
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posted January 08, 2018 01:04 PM

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Thanks for the info fella's [Wink]

[Wink]

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Maurice Leakey
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From: Bristol. United Kingdom
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posted January 08, 2018 01:55 PM

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Sorry, Terry

My CIR is the model M3-16, it has a rotary knob either end. The left one moves the position of the centre pins (either way), and the right hand knob selects the different positions for the right-hand pins.

With this model the film can be moved to make a perfect butt. If the film is too shrunk to fit on all the pins you turn the right hand knob to hide both end pins, this enables a perfect join to be made.

I assumed your model was the same.

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Maurice

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David Ollerearnshaw
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From: Penistone Sheffield UK
Registered: Oct 2012

posted January 09, 2018 11:47 AM

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I have the 16mm CIR and it does make good splices. I always clean the ends of the film to be spliced with some isopropyl alcohol to make sure it is really clean and cleaning stuff on the film. When you could get 2.22 tape would not stick of course, they sold a tin of solvent that really got the film base perfect for splicing.

I also use isopropyl to clean the teeth in the splicer arm. This I think is a must do job, if you don't the cut bits really build up.

--------------------
I love the smell of film in the morning.

http://www.thereelimage.co.uk/

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