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Author
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Topic: Amp Wiring advice for Sankyo 600 Switches -Motor
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Phil Mitchell
Expert Film Handler
Posts: 144
From: Melbourne, Australia
Registered: Aug 2013
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posted August 12, 2014 02:43 AM
Hi Andrew thanks for reply.
I understand what you mean about Volts and amp with water example. Ta for that.
With my multimeter on 200m mille amps, I am getting a reading from power wire on switch and negative on switch of 00.81
Does this sound like enough power to run motor?
( I also get this reading when I push in switch plunger from the Com terminal, putting red tester cable to it instead of power one.
I tried putting MM to the 10amp setting which one has to swap red lead to the 10adc socket but I get no reading on that and testing leads started to get warm, so I stopped that straight away.
Seems to me switch is okay but the wiring to the circuit board that sits behind these switches where the two wires for motor run to terminals on other side of this board, I cannot get a good enough solder / connection as wires are quite brittle.
What type of wiring should I buy to replace what I have, I know not a lot about wiring gauges, Jaycar here in Australia which is like RadioShack in USA, has these hook up wiring, refer link, would that do?
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=WH3025
Thanks again
Phil
if I am getting 00.81 mille amps
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Martin Jones
Phenomenal Film Handler
Posts: 1269
From: Thetford , Norfolk,England
Registered: May 2008
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posted August 12, 2014 06:47 AM
Probably get slated for saying this .... but Phil, stop right there!
If you do not understand what you are measuring, why you are measuring it, or even how to use the tool you are attempting to measure it with, you might just as well be attempting to mend a watch with a sledgehammer.
It IS possible to guide someone through a repair remotely (I've done it more than once), but ONLY when the "Guider" has a thorough knowledge of the subject machine, can communicate CLEARLY what needs to be done, Step by Step,AND the "Guided" has basic measurement, mechanical and soldering skills, can follow instructions TO THE LETTER and CLEARLY communicate the results of what he has been told to do.
Outside of that,the world is full of scrap projectors and other devices as a result.
Phil, consult a competent mechanical/electronic hobbyist ..... or a professional repair specialist; there's at least one in Australia.
Martin
--------------------
Retired TV Service Engineer
Ongoing interest in Telecine....
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Phil Mitchell
Expert Film Handler
Posts: 144
From: Melbourne, Australia
Registered: Aug 2013
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posted August 12, 2014 11:28 PM
Hi Martin/ Andrew.
No very good advice Martin.
There is a thread on here where Janice had a similar problem with a Snakyo of hers, someone helped her out in how to use a Multimeter, I am going to read that before I do anymore.
Also the orginal wiring for these switches etc I am going to replace, even if I was best soldering person, I doubt they would solder, my brother today suggested putting some terminals on wires to the micro switches, as where they sit in projector there is room above for terminals, would make job a bit easier.
And yes the motor is not running connected up, But it does run, I did the 9volt battery test to it alone, connecting the blue and white wires from motor to battery and we replaced the brushes in it.
Cheers
Phil
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Martin Jones
Phenomenal Film Handler
Posts: 1269
From: Thetford , Norfolk,England
Registered: May 2008
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posted August 13, 2014 03:49 AM
Phil,
The clue is in the statement ...
"I tried putting MM to the 10amp setting which one has to swap red lead to the 10adc socket but I get no reading on that and testing leads started to get warm, so I stopped that straight away."
If the leads which are INTENDED to carry 10 amps are getting warm, only God knows what excessive currents you have already subjected the projector circuits to, for how long, and what damage has ALREADY been done!
And ..... "No very good advice Martin". Is that "NOT very good advice, Martin" or is it " No, very good advice, Martin"?
That's where the "CLEARLY" part comes in!
--------------------
Retired TV Service Engineer
Ongoing interest in Telecine....
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Phil Mitchell
Expert Film Handler
Posts: 144
From: Melbourne, Australia
Registered: Aug 2013
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posted August 14, 2014 12:44 AM
Martin, actually shouldn't it be
Yes that is very good advice.
Anyway to quote what someone instructited Janice in another rpost on this ofrum about how to use a MM etc. Correct me if this is wrong, bit the below makes sense to me.
"The meter dial goes to "200" in the section "DCV"
You take one lead and touch one terminal (and only the terminal!), take the other lead and touch it only to the other terminal. The only difference flipping them makes is one way the number will have a minus sign, the other it will not.
You should see zero(ish) when you expect the motor to be off. You should see something (12V, 20V, 24V?) when it's supposed to be on.
Best way to do it is carefully connecting up using leads with alligator clips or EZ hooks, but one way or the other be careful and respect that metal motor case! Shorting to it can cause grief you didn't start out with."
I have Alligator clips to connect to MM prods to use, get a more reliable connection and of course safer.
Cheers
Phil
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Phil Mitchell
Expert Film Handler
Posts: 144
From: Melbourne, Australia
Registered: Aug 2013
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posted August 18, 2014 04:14 AM
Hi Maurice, thanks for reply.
Good observation.
Those 3 wires go to a transitor so I worked out today, Der has T on it.
Anyway what I did today was multimeter the red wire and white wire, interesting red was at first only giving me 3.6volts ( yes same reading I am getting from the power out to switches wire.)
White one gives me 10.6volts. Okay I thought why the difference.!
Okay I moved red wire a bit to see if it was loose, seemed a little loose, did another MM tests and now I get 4.1volts. Okay something wrong here, put MM red prod to back of circuit board near the wire and behind where the output terminal is, same readings, but it started to vary a little by a few 0.1 or 0.2 volts.
I know it is hard to see from photo, 8mm forum restricts image size, but could I be right in that some solder is missing, have a look a picture again where I have highlighted it with Paint program marking in yellow.
Maurice, I think those wires are on right way as far as those holes, to me they look like holes for other terminals blades.
Thanks again
Phil
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