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Author Topic: Beaulieu Take-Up Problem.
Rob Young.
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1633
From: Cheshire, U.K.
Registered: Dec 2003


 - posted March 10, 2015 03:01 AM      Profile for Rob Young.     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Well my Beaulieu is throwing it's latest tantrum. [Roll Eyes]

A couple of months ago, when switching to forward, the take-up spool refused to move. Switching to reverse then forward a couple of times and hey-presto, all was well again. I assumed it was the old washer in the arm wearing out, but when I dissembled it later, all was fine.

Anyway, I did a quick check in the back of the machine also and all looked fine, so I put it back together and it ran happily for the last couple of months.

Then on Saturday, during a show for friends (why do they always do this during a real show [Confused] [Roll Eyes] [Big Grin] ) the same problem.

A couple of reels ran fine, but then no response from the take-up arm. Switching from reverse to forward several times and finally (with a little clunk) the take-up mechanism started to work again and is now fine.

It must be a problem with the clutch not re-engaging following rewinding I guess? I've had a quick look at the service manual and couldn't see anything obvious.

Any one else had this problem? Someone tell me there is a really easy fix!! [Big Grin] [Smile] [Smile]

One for our resident Beaulieu expert, Andrew, me thinks.

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Maurice Leakey
Film God

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From: Bristol. United Kingdom
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 - posted March 10, 2015 03:37 AM      Profile for Maurice Leakey   Email Maurice Leakey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Does it have micro-switches?
They can be a problem with some projectors when switching modes.

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Maurice

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Rob Young.
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1633
From: Cheshire, U.K.
Registered: Dec 2003


 - posted March 10, 2015 01:37 PM      Profile for Rob Young.     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I don't believe so in the case of forward / rewind, Maurice; I think it's mechanical although I may be quite wrong there.

Will try to delve deeper into the service manual when I get the chance.

The fact that once re-engaged I will run happily means at least that hopefully no cogs are damaged.

Any and all suggestions appreciated! [Smile] [Smile] [Smile]

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Andrew Woodcock
Film God

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From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012


 - posted March 10, 2015 02:02 PM      Profile for Andrew Woodcock         Edit/Delete Post 
Hello again Rob. Sorry it's taken a while to see this post and not respond to you sooner, but I have been in work since 5:30 this morning.

I won't be able to do much to help tonight pal as I don't want to start messing around getting my tools tonight after the day I've had but I will remove the rear cover on mine tomorrow when I am off and see what could be going wrong for you.

What I will say just off memory, you really don't need worry too much about this issue as the drive chain is very straight forward on the Beaulieu's. Anything after the motor drive belt has to mechanical with the exception of the threading system which does incorporate a micro switch and the capstan drive mechanism which can be tricky to diagnose when there are faults present.

If you can simulate the problem again between now and tomorrow afternoon it would be a distinct advantage to me as if you could take a video of the rear of the machine running with the rear cover removed, I would be able to see instantly which parts are turning and which are not. Then I could look at my own machine and track the possible faulty component that is letting the rest of the drive chain down on your machine.

If you feel you may be able to send me a short video while simulating the fault, please pm me Rob and I will send you my e mail so you can post it to me.

So in other words, it really won't be much at all that is stopping this from being the fully functioning exceptional machine that I know you are proud to own.

Chin up Rob, it really will be something or nothing I strongly suspect.

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"C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"

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Rob Young.
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1633
From: Cheshire, U.K.
Registered: Dec 2003


 - posted March 10, 2015 02:36 PM      Profile for Rob Young.     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks mate; I'm out filming for the next few days but I'll run some films at the weekend time permitting and see what happens.

Please don't open up your own beloved machine just yet on my account. I'll see if I can emulate the problem first and report back.

When it fails again, I'll get the back off and see what's going on.

Meanwhile I'll study the service manual in my spare time.

Thanks, as usual for all your help Andrew.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlP7l8vkNOk

[Smile] [Smile] [Smile] [Wink]

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Andrew Woodcock
Film God

Posts: 7477
From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012


 - posted March 10, 2015 02:57 PM      Profile for Andrew Woodcock         Edit/Delete Post 
Any help I can offer you Rob, you know you only have to ask. Taking the rear cover off mine is nothing unusual Rob when necessary for my own needs or to assist others with voltage readings etc, so you needn't worry about that mate.

I will do likewise with the manual tomorrow Rob and let you know what my gut instincts tell me. Bear in mind many machines have an intermediate gear that swings to the left or right on a small lever from the first driven gear off the belt. This floats from driving the rewind gears to the take up gears in many cases.

These do have a tendency to stick "on" one way or another instead of "swinging" inbetween the two gears as they should if the pivot point has dried out somewhat.

I have experienced this many times on an ST1200 as well as my Eumig S938 but never on my Beaulieu so far so I would have to check tomorrow if it even incorporates this same design feature, but a very common fault resulting in the same end result you have if indeed it does.

Having looked at the photo below to remind myself of the set up in there, I am certain the above only applies to AC motor driven
set ups. When the motor is electronically controlled the drive chain is simply reversed electrically through polarity switching to the motor I am sure, so the above cannot apply to these type of machines I think.The clutches on each of the drives do the rest I think. Its late now so I will check this for certain tomorrow now Rob.

"We will indeed fix it like new!" [Big Grin] [Big Grin]

Not a great deal to the drive chain as said Rob. Please see photograph below with the main motor removed to simplify the drive chain and expose possible problematic parts further:
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[ March 10, 2015, 05:07 PM: Message edited by: Andrew Woodcock ]

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"C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"

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Andrew Woodcock
Film God

Posts: 7477
From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012


 - posted March 11, 2015 10:36 AM      Profile for Andrew Woodcock         Edit/Delete Post 
Just checked the Bauer and the Beaulieu this morning Rob for the forward and reverse movement.

They work in the manner I suspected where the motor itself reverses and therefore directly reverses the drive on both of these electronically controlled DC driven machines.

AC motor driven machines like the ST1200 or S938, simply do not have this option as there is no way to electrically reverse the motor (single phase) so they have to attempt to do this mechanically in the manner I described above using an intermediate spur gear arrangement toggling from one gear to another either side of it.

This means that from the above photograph, every part of the drive should rotate continually while ever the motor is turning from the worm gears on the main shaft upwards. Only the one way clutches and mechanical linkages etc will decide in what mode one spindle turns or doesn't be it in forward, reverse projection mode or indeed rapid rewind mode.

This hopefully will narrow your search down somewhat Rob especially if you can simulate the fault with the rear cover removed.

Keep is all informed buddy.


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[ March 12, 2015, 06:15 AM: Message edited by: Andrew Woodcock ]

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"C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"

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Andrew Woodcock
Film God

Posts: 7477
From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012


 - posted March 12, 2015 05:57 AM      Profile for Andrew Woodcock         Edit/Delete Post 
Had another look into this for you this morning Rob.

The only linkages that come from the main switch cam shaft, control the sound head section mechanical movement and the floating roller movement around the capstan drive roller area. That is it.

No linkages are utilised for spindle movements.

With the rear cover removed on my machine, I placed the machine into forward and reverse projection modes on the master switch.
All that changes is the rotation of all gears and the take up reel drive belt. Everything turns in both modes while ever the motor is turning.

So how then does the machine know only to turn the take up spindle in forward mode while leaving front arm spindle stationary and vice versa in reverse I hear you ask?

Simply that each arm has a ratchet mechanism built into the gearing at the lower end of each arm.. see drawings below.
This one way clutch or ratchet mechanism simply allows the spindles to be only engaged with the drive only ever in the direction that each of the spindles will ever turn or be driven.

In the opposite direction, the lower gear is still turning away as normal but the ratchet mechanism or one way clutch, simply rides over the ratcheting drive points.

Conclusion:

If, with the rear cover removed, you observe all gears and take up belt turning in both directions as you switch the master switch from forward to reverse, then the only other reason why the spindle cannot turn is either because the ratchet drive key (item 22 on page 10 of the service manual) is not engaging correctly with the ratchet drive wheel or there is wear to the ratchet drive wheel or the internal arm belt (item 37 on page 10) is either worn, loose or snapped.

Please refer to drawings below in your manual :

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[ March 13, 2015, 12:40 AM: Message edited by: Andrew Woodcock ]

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"C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"

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Rob Young.
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1633
From: Cheshire, U.K.
Registered: Dec 2003


 - posted March 16, 2015 05:37 AM      Profile for Rob Young.     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Andrew, just wanted to say thanks for all your input and help so far.

Unfortunately, I've only had a chance to briefly try the Beaulieu yesterday. Of course, all now seems fine and it simply won't reproduce the fault.

When I get a little more time, I'll take the back off and have a proper look.

Thanks again for your posts and I'll keep you updated! [Smile]

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Andrew Woodcock
Film God

Posts: 7477
From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012


 - posted March 16, 2015 12:27 PM      Profile for Andrew Woodcock         Edit/Delete Post 
Hope when you do Rob, it becomes apparent very quickly for you based on all of above mentioned.

Keep us updated then Rob please as you say, I will be really interested in the outcome as I am sure will others with these machines.

[ March 17, 2015, 04:27 AM: Message edited by: Andrew Woodcock ]

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"C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"

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Rob Young.
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1633
From: Cheshire, U.K.
Registered: Dec 2003


 - posted March 21, 2015 07:45 AM      Profile for Rob Young.     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Right, so I ran my 600 footer of "Genevieve" last night and half way through the take-up failed...quite amusing actually as it was the scene where Genevieve is towed into the garage. How ironic. [Frown] [Roll Eyes]

So...with the back cover removed, all works fine in reverse / forward. So Andrew, my friend, you are correct; it must be the ratchet failing.

It's so annoying because it only fails now and again, so it is now running fine again, but it did fail with the back cover off just now.

Right then; how do I fix the ratchet?? [Confused]

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Andrew Woodcock
Film God

Posts: 7477
From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012


 - posted March 21, 2015 09:50 AM      Profile for Andrew Woodcock         Edit/Delete Post 
Just take the full assembly apart Rob. Compare all parts to the drawing and see what is worn or whether or not the ratchet drive key (22) is Sat correctly in the assembly.

Just a thought, but did you take the reel arm cover off it just to see that the reel arm drive belt is tensioned correctly and not worn etc etc?

Highly unlikely to be this, but worth checking Rob just before pulling the ratchet assembly apart.

Have you renewed your friction linings in the past in this area Rob? This just may have dislodged the ratchet drive key perhaps if indeed you have?

--------------------
"C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"

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Rob Young.
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From: Cheshire, U.K.
Registered: Dec 2003


 - posted March 21, 2015 10:47 AM      Profile for Rob Young.     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yep, the belt is fine, Andrew, so the next step is carefully taking the ratchet assembly apart...wish me luck!

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Andrew Woodcock
Film God

Posts: 7477
From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012


 - posted March 21, 2015 11:06 AM      Profile for Andrew Woodcock         Edit/Delete Post 
You'll be fine Rob, I am certain. All here to assist if necessary as ever Rob! Best of luck to you mate. [Wink]

--------------------
"C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"

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Rob Young.
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1633
From: Cheshire, U.K.
Registered: Dec 2003


 - posted March 21, 2015 11:50 AM      Profile for Rob Young.     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Andrew, what do you think is the best way to remove the retainer clip (part no. 24)?

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Andrew Woodcock
Film God

Posts: 7477
From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012


 - posted March 21, 2015 02:05 PM      Profile for Andrew Woodcock         Edit/Delete Post 
With a decent flat bladed slim ish screwdriver and a terminal flat bladed screwdriver Rob as it is a snap ring not a circlip.

Use one with a large tip to push on the two ends of the clip while slipping a terminal screw driver underneath in the gap created between shaft and snap ring. Then simply pry the snap ring off and try your best not to lose or bend it whilst doing so.

If you do lose, bend or stretch any of these, don't worry I can post you some. I have loads in all the common metric sizes Rob.

Oh and don't forget to wear full PPE and carry out a full risk assessment prior to beginning any work or no doubt that'll be another excuse for ridiculous jibes coming back to me!! Lol [Wink]

[ March 21, 2015, 08:11 PM: Message edited by: Andrew Woodcock ]

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"C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"

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Robert Tucker
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Posts: 688
From: Essex, UK
Registered: May 2005


 - posted March 21, 2015 04:44 PM      Profile for Robert Tucker     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Rob, make sure you use the correct tools and not a screwdriver to do this or you could make things worse, Get yourself some snap ring pliers.

Hope that helps [Smile]

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Andrew Woodcock
Film God

Posts: 7477
From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012


 - posted March 21, 2015 05:12 PM      Profile for Andrew Woodcock         Edit/Delete Post 
Oh here we go again!

I've done the job of removing and refitting snap rings tens of thousands of times in my lifetime with no problems whatsoever using the above method.

I have seen and read loads of manuals and videos of photographic equipment being repaired and many engineers prefer to use this quick and easy method rather than bother to have a 200 drawer Snap On tool chest with every single sized set of circlip pliers, snap ring pliers, spring compressors, bearing pullers etc etc etc.

The chances of Rob having the "said" 200 drawer tool chest at the side of his sideboard in his living room is pretty remote I would have thought, therefore with this in mind, this was a fairly simple solution to Robs dilemma I would have thought but seeing as you are the ultimate expert on all things projectors Robert,maybe I should pass over advising and trying to help anyone on here in their hour of need and leave it all down to you to post the service manual docs and then detailed explanation of what to do.

Then I can simply sit back and "chip in" to my hearts content with any little dig I ever can.

And you tell me to grow up!!

[ March 22, 2015, 05:10 AM: Message edited by: Andrew Woodcock ]

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"C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"

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Robert Tucker
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From: Essex, UK
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 - posted March 21, 2015 06:00 PM      Profile for Robert Tucker     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Funny how people who are members on this forum cannot give helpful advice to other like minded forum members.

There's obviously something seriously wrong here !?!

Unfortunately i don't really have the time for this childish and bullying behavior period !

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Andrew Woodcock
Film God

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From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012


 - posted March 21, 2015 06:03 PM      Profile for Andrew Woodcock         Edit/Delete Post 
Strange?????

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"C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"

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Rob Young.
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1633
From: Cheshire, U.K.
Registered: Dec 2003


 - posted March 23, 2015 11:16 AM      Profile for Rob Young.     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
News!

I've taken it apart and the ratchet claw is ok, but it sits on part 19 with a pin which extrudes back into part 18.

The hole which you can see on part 18 determines whether the ratchet engages or not, given the direction of turn.

Whist the pin on the ratchet part 22 is engaging, it does seems to have worn so that it doesn't engage firmly.

So the pin on the ratchet must be worn leading to occasional slippage and thus lack of claw engagement.

Of course, it could be wear to the hole on part 18 also. Or both.

Where to find a replacement ratchet and part 18???

It did all need some minor de-greasing, which may help matters, but I feel replacing the parts is the only sure way to go.

EDIT update!! Took the front arm apart. It is definitely the ratchet pin which is worn. The front arm ratchet pin is in much better shape. Unfortunately it is a reverse version of the take-up so can't be interchanged.

Disc part 18 is slightly more worn on the take-up arm, but pretty similar to the feed arm.

So I need a new ratchet. Don't see one listed at Wittners... [Frown] [Frown] [Frown]

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Paul Browning
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 - posted March 23, 2015 01:02 PM      Profile for Paul Browning   Email Paul Browning   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi Rob, does the part just need to be sharpened up, that is its profile, and the burrs removed, or has it just worn away, with out any means of adjustment. Is there any chance of a close up picture of both bits. I have one of these machines too and if the part is not available, i'll make the parts, lets see what we can do mate.

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Rob Young.
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1633
From: Cheshire, U.K.
Registered: Dec 2003


 - posted March 23, 2015 02:10 PM      Profile for Rob Young.     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi Paul, I'll take some photos tomorrow if I get the chance to make it clearer, but basically, the actual ratchet is fine. The problem is that on the back of the ratchet part, there is a small "prong" or pin, which fits into the hole on part 18.

When part 18 rotates in reverse, it pushes the pin to move the ratchet out of the way, and then when running in forward, it pushes it to engage and drive the take-up.

The pin on the back of the ratchet shouldn't really, I suppose move away form the hole on part 18, but it clearly has, as there are wear marks on part 18 (the disc) and this has basically filed down the pin.

Hope all this makes any sense! [Roll Eyes] [Smile]

The slippage may be down to grease, or lack of pressure form the spring (part 17) but once re-engaged, the hole in the disc (part 18) should drive the pin, and thus keep the ratchet in a fully engaged and locked position.

But now that the pin has worn down (by fractions of mm!) it has become temperamental.

The ratchet part is finished in black and you can compare the wear by looking at the front arm ratchet which is fine, compared to the rear arm ratchet which has a worn silver tip to the pin and is (under a magnifying glass!) shorter.

I fear the only resolve is to re-engineer the whole ratchet (part 22), or somehow replace the pin (which may be engineering micro-surgery!!)

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Andrew Woodcock
Film God

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From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012


 - posted March 23, 2015 02:42 PM      Profile for Andrew Woodcock         Edit/Delete Post 
Rob, Wittners probably will have the exact parts if you send them the manual serial numbers. The parts they advertise are the stock parts they have for sale for the masses, but I believe there is hardly any parts from these machines that they do not have.

If that method draws a blank, then measure the pin accurately for length and diameter with a vernier calliper and a metric micrometer and then I can easily knock a couple of these up if they are just a straight plain pin.

Let me know how you wish to proceed Rob please and as Paul says, if you can post us all a photo of the pin outside of the assembly it will help.

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"C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"

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Paul Browning
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 - posted March 23, 2015 02:48 PM      Profile for Paul Browning   Email Paul Browning   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hello Rob, so can we get the pin out ?, when you say micro surgery, are you talking about a pin with a diameter of say, a few mm's, or the is this a dimple pressed through the material from behind ?. Making a pin will not prove a problem rob, I have access to material harder than any metal your likely to encounter, that includes, hardened tool steels, tungsten carbide stainless steel, but this will need to be fixed somehow, maybe an araldite will do, or industrial super glue. The down side is that it will ware out the part it comes into contact with !!!!, so these are sometimes designed to ware out the replaceable part, ie the pin, but perhaps your right, and it may need a redesign. Lets have a look at the pictures rob, I'm we can cure this, we are the "A" TEAM OF FORUMS after all.

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