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Author
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Topic: Keystone SU-200 Super 8 Sound Projector - OB - Tested
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Mark Todd
Film God
Posts: 3846
From: UK
Registered: Aug 2003
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posted November 21, 2009 04:58 PM
The sound issue on the 600,s is usually a one sprocket hole too small loop so its thwacking if you will a little too near the soundhead.
The threading on the 600,s is their only real achillies heel.
Depending whether the claw is out or not you can usually pull a little more( one sprocket hole)down through the gate and then reset a bit above the gate too lifting the top sprocket shue up and working an extra sprocket holes worth through.( or you can open the gate to sort it)
There are 3 possitions the loop under the 600 gate will usually get in, 1. one perf hole too short,2. bang on, 3. one ( or more ) too many.
Some 600,s have an adjustable brass cam on the below gate loop fomer to lift or raise it before the sound head area entrance.
That cam is on a small attached arm and rests on the large long 3 inch black arm over the soundhead area( the one that lifts up and down under the lens).
Another has the same set up but where the adjustable cam usually is, there is only a fixed small tube that can`t be adjusted. I`ve seen a machine where this had been removed and a little bit of brass modelling tube put on instead to change the loop fomer set up but it didn`t help as it was too lose on its shaft and allowed too much movement each way a bit on the loop fomer when threading which wasn`t handy.
Others ( 180,s generally, some 160,s) have a, fixed set up where the loop former`s small control arm rests on a small copper lever attached to the long over sound head black arm( the one mentioned above 3 inches long that pivots with the large slot bolt)
The only way to adjust these fixed varients is to cause the long black 3 inch arm to be a very little higher or lower via the control rods that come form the main switch. That raises or lowers the lower loop fomer. They are usually where they were set up in the factory, if set right they tend to stay right, but as the pivot is at the other end of the 3 inch black arm a very small amount can move it up or down a lot at the under gate end so affecting the loop former.
Though I do have an idea for an adjustment to the small copper part never tried it.
Its not really worth it, easier to just see where the loop is after each threading and reset to the number 2 right possition if needed.
On some when theaded with the smaller loop the sound is really affected, others not so much.
A good firm acetate leader usually helps for more right on threadings on all varients.
If your 600 usually sets up with a little too much loop under the gate you won`t usually notice on running but if its working against the lower loop former regularly, now sat back under the gate it will eat in to the relief on the black plastic of that and will eventually scratch there, though it takes a good old while and a fair bit of running.
So its always worth looking where the under gate loop is on each thread unless after a few checks you realise your machine is ticketty boo with it 90 + % of the time.
If you have the cam adjustable version or the same but with the just small brass tube you can put your finger on it after threading. if you feel the loop vibes through it, it usually means the loop is too large and us riding against the under gate loop fomer as mentioned above and neesd resetting so the loop comes a little forward( usually needs one sprocket hole fed back up through the gate, more if a larger over loop was created)
You can usually just pull this up through the gate with a finger on/under the loop above the gate if the claw isn`t through the gate, and then reset the loop above the gate too if needed.
Best Mark.
PS is that su 200 a re-badged Cinerex !!!
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Edgar Canola
Junior
Posts: 15
From: Mississauga, ON, Canada
Registered: Nov 2009
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posted November 22, 2009 10:45 PM
Hi Christian, after your comment I did watch the video again two times, and you're right indeed looks like the sound is a little bit "jittery" as you said.
But, to be honest, I did not notice when playing it. Maybe was what John suggested, as I am having an issue with my other dual 8 projector, which sometimes tight too much the movies when rewinding.
Mark, thanks for the possible tips to fix this possible problem. (We have really experts here! We are always learning!) I saved as a reference for the future, but as I did not notice nothing, I don't think it worth to try on this Keystone.
Regards,
Edgar.
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