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Author Topic: Eiki sprocket help
Patrick Walsh
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 723
From: Christchurch, New Zealand
Registered: Jul 2006


 - posted March 26, 2007 03:39 PM      Profile for Patrick Walsh   Email Patrick Walsh   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi,
I have just got myself an EIKI ST/M model projector, but the top sprocket is chipped and has a crack in it, It is not the actual metal toothed part of it but the actual whole black plastic sprocket, just wondering how one would remove it off the shaft so it can be replaced.
Thankyou
Patrick

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"Raise The Titanic!", It would of been cheaper to lower the Atlantic!

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Hugh McCullough
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 156
From: Old Coulsdon. Surrey. UK
Registered: Oct 2006


 - posted March 27, 2007 06:18 PM      Profile for Hugh McCullough   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hello Patrick.

From what I can remember, the sprocket drum is a permanent fixture on the shaft.
The shaft itself is held in place by two screws.

To remove the shaft, and drum, you will have to open the back, and take out all the gears etc.
This is not as easy as it sounds as the screws were probably tightened up at the factory, and will be very tight to get undone.
Be careful not to loose the small curved piece of metal that fits inside the rear of the first pulley. Also do not loose the fibre washers. These are used to take up any end play on the sprocket drum shaft.

Hugh.

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EIKI Ex 6100 xenon machine.

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John Whittle
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 791
From: Northridge, CA USA
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted March 27, 2007 06:34 PM      Profile for John Whittle   Email John Whittle       Edit/Delete Post 
The Eiki supplied part is a plastic drum on a hardened steel shaft. The early MS-860 series had a white plastic that cracked and were changed in production with a black plastic. At one time I could buy just the plastic drums and you can indeed press off the old drum and press on a new one.

If you do that, you will need to then true the drum in a lathe so it turns properly on the shaft (more important for the two sprockets on the sound drum in the 860 and the second sprocket on the ST/M, RT/M and NT machines.

On the number one sprocket, the most important thing on re-assembly is the proper timing of the sprocket tooth to the gate if you have an auto-thread machine since the sprocket hole has to be delivered to the claw inorder for proper threading. This was modified much later when the claw was retracted during threading (on the SNT series).

The drums on the S series, R series and NT series are all the same and could be used although there are differences in the shafts. The drums on the SSL and SNT machines are a different size.

John

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Patrick Walsh
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 723
From: Christchurch, New Zealand
Registered: Jul 2006


 - posted March 27, 2007 07:55 PM      Profile for Patrick Walsh   Email Patrick Walsh   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi guys, thanks for the infomation.
Pat

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"Raise The Titanic!", It would of been cheaper to lower the Atlantic!

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