This is topic DJL Incandescent to ESD Halogen Conversion in a B&H Filmosonic in forum 8mm Forum at 8mm Forum.
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Posted by Manuel Tapia (Member # 3249) on September 19, 2012, 08:44 AM:
DJL Incandescent to ESD Halogen Conversion in a B&H Filmosonic
As all know the DJL Lamp 120V, 150W is to expensive around $50USD and have just an Lifetime of 15 Hr. Avg. so i look for a cheaper lamp and i found the ESD around 12 Hr. Avg that is 120v and 150W but this one is an Halogen lamp the lifetime is 12 hour.
Because they use the same voltage and power no electrical modification was required, i just have to make a bracket.
I compared the temperature before and after conversion, DJL lamp 213°C vs ESD Lamp 198°C, is run cooler so no needed modification in the ventilation system.
1.- I measured the original lamp position
2.- Then i did a cardstock template
3.- Then i traced in a galvanized sheet then after a lot of work the bracket is done and the test lamp installed and adjusted
5.- I used the original socket screw to mount the new bracket
6.- The electrical connection in the socket has terminal, so i didn't need to cut, i just put a terminal in the new socket that i soldered and put Heat shrink tubing and after connect i add some insulating tape
7.- The conversion is ready, the rec level display still illuminated
I'm very happy with the conversion the light improved drastically, brightest and whiter, the next photo is with the room light on. that cannot happen with the old lamp.
Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on September 19, 2012, 11:46 AM:
Excellent Manuel! I thought about making a sheet metal mount...but wasn't really sure about how to cut it. Thanks for sharing your solution. Looks like it worked out great.
Posted by Pasquale DAlessio (Member # 2052) on September 19, 2012, 11:49 AM:
Great work. Thanks for the posting!
Posted by Akshay Nanjangud (Member # 2828) on September 19, 2012, 01:36 PM:
This is pretty good.
Posted by Tony Stucchio (Member # 519) on September 19, 2012, 06:38 PM:
That is very similar to what I will need to do to convert a B&H 370. I've already removed the old bracket and socket, so I have three holes to work with as mounting points for a new bracket. Can you please tell us more about how you made one from a galvanized sheet? Where can you get a sheet and what kind of knife do you need in order to cut it to size?
I've decided to attempt the B&H instead of the Bolex simply because of the existing mount points that are available in the B&H rather than try to drill holes in the Bolex.
Also, the DLG (used by the B&H originally) is 21.5(sometimes listed as 22) Volts, whereas the EJA and EKE recommended in the other thread is 21 Volts. Will this .5 to 1 volt difference matter?
Posted by Manuel Tapia (Member # 3249) on September 19, 2012, 06:55 PM:
Wasn't hard to do it, of course i have a good tools stock.
First i use a metal sheet scissors, then i use my table drill to make alot of hole inside of the marks, then with a dremel and a grinding remove the remainders.
You can use a normal drill but be careful if the sheet stuck in the bit could be a dangerous rotative knife.
I bought it in a blacksmith shop, i just as for a remainder, because if you go to a steel shop they just sell a whole sheet.
Maybe you can find small sheet in home depot !
Posted by Tony Stucchio (Member # 519) on September 19, 2012, 07:27 PM:
Thanks Manuel. I will try Home Depot.
Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on September 19, 2012, 08:46 PM:
Tony...Home Depot does sell 12" square pieces of galvanized steel for around $6.
Manuel...I really appreciate you sharing the photos on how you did your conversion. It shows what a little creativity (and the proper tools) can do. I'm sure you've got a lot of others encouraged now to give it a try.
Posted by Tony Stucchio (Member # 519) on September 19, 2012, 10:18 PM:
Thanks Janice -- I see it on their website. I think I have scissors that will be able to cut it.
Posted by Bill Brandenstein (Member # 892) on September 19, 2012, 10:20 PM:
Really nice mod. I've never understood why B&H used lamps of that type, except that it probably was cheap to build for them -- no transformer or mountings required, just a socket. And since the B&H I first had WAS a really cheap projector, and the bulbs not efficient, bright, nor economical (and never were), I can just imagine it was a way to just get it done. Those bulbs are quite a curiosity, being far more complex than a compact halogen, and containing a second rear filament that contributed nothing to the screen.
Posted by Manuel Tapia (Member # 3249) on September 19, 2012, 10:57 PM:
Biil, you are right the DJL is a very bad lamp, but for me even the halogen is obsolet, use alot of current a produce alot of heat and for our propouse is quite yellow (3400°K) and the lifetime is almost the same.
Indeed this was a short term solution, my final solution will be a xenon lamp, the have a lifetime around 2000 hr. use more than the half of current, you can have several color temperature lamp.
we can use a 4300°K for a good film and a 6000°K when you will run a warmed film
and are very cheap like this ones around 90US 2 ballast and 2 lamps.
For my projector i have to add a transformer but for who this projector use a 12V 150W or 100W will be great !!
The hard part i think is make a reflector.
Posted by Bill Brandenstein (Member # 892) on September 21, 2012, 12:46 PM:
OK Manuel, that sounds like a fantastic idea, and I hope you'll post pictures and instructions when you have a success at this!
However, some halogen bulbs (and first quality ones) can cost less than $10, and last 50 hours (3x that of DJL), so unless Xenon / short arc is a reasonable option, halogen is the best.
So help us see how HID can be done! Thank you!
Posted by Tony Stucchio (Member # 519) on September 27, 2012, 07:55 PM:
I was able to convert my B&H 370 to use the EJA lamp using the cut sheet metal strategy from Manuel, and it worked like a charm! I get a really bright picture. The only issue is that the light is not totally even over the entire frame. I played around with the positioning a bit to get it as even and bright as possible, though. It is barely noticeable when screening a print, but is a bit more obvious with no film. Still a much brighter picture than with the old and very expensive DLG.
Thanks for the idea, Manuel.
Posted by George Tveden (Member # 3379) on April 06, 2013, 11:43 AM:
Hi, I am new to the forum but wanted to contribute some additional information about converting Bell & Howell DJL, DFN, DFZ and DLH projectors to MR16 type halogen lamps like ESD, JCR/120V/150W, EZK, ENH, and others. Rather than going through all the trouble of fabricating a housing or holder for your MR16 lamp conversion, just purchase a GEQLV1 socket online for just a few dollars. They are well made and are easy to mount onto Bell & Howell models.
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