This is topic Changing cxl/cxr bulb to LED using kit in forum 8mm Forum at 8mm Forum.


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Posted by Myron Baron (Member # 1007) on June 29, 2015, 01:58 PM:
 
If you are tired of replacing your CXL/CXR 50W 8V bulbs, burning film stuck in gate, take a look at this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNA1vffiHrE I know you pay anywhere from $24.00 to $34.00 for replacement bulbs, and they only last for approx 25 hours, the more you turn them on and off, the less hours you get from them, because of filament fatigue, well threat no more, with this kit, you can turn the projector on and off as much as you like with out causing the LED to burn out, and also there is no heat, so the movie film can be projecting and the projector stopped and the film will not burn, even if the film gets caught in the gate, you do not have to worry about the film burning. Check out the video on the link above. Also it is on E-Bay listed under cxl/cxr LED. Right now we only have a kit for this bulb, as this is the most common one used in most 8mm projectors.
 

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Posted by Brian Fretwell (Member # 4302) on June 29, 2015, 05:47 PM:
 
What is the light output of the projector in lumens compared to the tungsten lamp?
 

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Posted by Myron Baron (Member # 1007) on June 29, 2015, 09:41 PM:
 
The output of this LED is 1400Lumens.
 

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Posted by Timothy Ramzyk (Member # 718) on June 30, 2015, 09:51 AM:
 
Fantastic idea if they're bright enough. LED tends to be a cool light, will it alter color?
 

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Posted by Myron Baron (Member # 1007) on June 30, 2015, 11:48 AM:
 
I see no difference in color, I tried it with the bulb and then the LED, both looked the same to me. I will take a picture with the bulb vs the LED and put it on line, later. This reg bulb.
This is LED


It is very hard to take a picture of a film with reg bulb, but no problem with the LED as I can stop the projector.

[ June 30, 2015, 02:15 PM: Message edited by: Myron Baron ]
 

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Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on June 30, 2015, 05:07 PM:
 
Great innovation! These lamps are becoming rare now and come at a price when you can find any.

Good to see there is an alternative now for anyone using these in their vintage machines.

I remember using these in my second silent projector many many years back.
 

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Posted by Brian Fretwell (Member # 4302) on June 30, 2015, 05:12 PM:
 
I would think the colour difference between Tungsten and a xenon or HMI lamp would be greater to an LED.
 

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Posted by Myron Baron (Member # 1007) on June 30, 2015, 09:07 PM:
 
I'm sorry I don't know anything about tungsten, all I can tell you I see no difference between the bulb and the LED, the color's look the same to me. All I know is for 8 years, I have been transferring films to DVD, and the bulb I was using CXL/CXR 8V 50W, would burn out after about 20 hours, and some times the film would stop in the gate, for some reason or another, and the film would start to burn (blister), now the bulb will last 1,000 hours or more, and no more burning, and I see no difference in the colors, using the lLED or the CXL/CXR bulb. To me it is a win, win situation.
 

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Posted by Timothy Brown (Member # 495) on July 01, 2015, 11:06 AM:
 
It's interesting, I think if someone were to re-design projection equipment using the latest materials, you might see a very different machine under the hood. More digital audio playback, using amplification that wouldn't crap out or need fuses, standard one hour reel capacity, cool burning LED lamps. You might even see machines with built-in techline functions which had the ability to record a digital record of what you were projecting. It's too bad there isn't still machines being designed and produced.
 

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Posted by Rob Young. (Member # 131) on July 01, 2015, 12:42 PM:
 
Myron, brilliant idea and design.

In terms of colour temperature, if you project a clear white image using the LED lamp, and then point a video camera at it which has manual colour temperature control, you should get a reading in degrees Kelvin from the camera.

Roughly, 3200K is tungsten and 5600K is average daylight.

The lower the K, the warmer the image.

Since our eyes can adapt to colour temperature, unlike cameras, it shouldn't really matter when watching a projected image, and indeed a higher colour temperature often results in better perceived images.

Likewise, when doing tele-cine, the camera should address colour temperature, so I think you are right; it's a win, win!
 

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Posted by Steve Carter (Member # 4821) on July 01, 2015, 01:58 PM:
 
This is what I've been talking of on another thread, now if only a 15v 150w equivalent could be produced with same results, I would be first in the queue...
 

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Posted by Myron Baron (Member # 1007) on July 01, 2015, 03:05 PM:
 
Steve
perhaps if you take a picture of your bulb, is it halogen or incandescent? Give me some information, I need the size and the lumens you are looking for, maybe I can come up with something.
 

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Posted by Dominique De Bast (Member # 3798) on July 01, 2015, 03:19 PM:
 
Myron, I think that Steve is refering to the standard projectors bulbs http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A1-232-EFR-15v-150w-Super-8-Projector-Lamp-for-8mm-Cine-/200544894346
 

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Posted by Steve Carter (Member # 4821) on July 01, 2015, 03:55 PM:
 
Yes Dominique, that's the one...
 

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Posted by Myron Baron (Member # 1007) on July 01, 2015, 07:21 PM:
 
Steve
That bulb is cheap in comparison to the cxl/cxr bulb, this bulb was costing me $24.00 USD, I don't know what that equals in pounds. I could probably change that to an LED, but I do not know what the cost I will have to charge, also what projector do you use this bulb on, what is the manufacturer and model?
Myron
 

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Posted by Dominique De Bast (Member # 3798) on July 01, 2015, 10:43 PM:
 
Myron, several projectors use these bulbs. I personnally don't see any saving benefit of a led bulb for 15v 150 w replacement but a high interest if the led doesn't heat the projector (and the film) with exactly the same quantity and quality of light (or, even better, with more). The same, of course for the other current models : 12v 100 w and 24v 250 w.
 

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Posted by Timothy Ramzyk (Member # 718) on July 02, 2015, 12:26 AM:
 
The heat factor is a plus, I had a Eumig that was a great machine except the bulb-socked deteriorated twice due to the prolonged heat of the lamp.

Do these LED bulbs provide equal brightness?
 

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Posted by Steve Carter (Member # 4821) on July 02, 2015, 04:46 AM:
 
It's really nothing to do with how 'cheap' or 'expensive' a lamp is, it's more running cost, heat and light out-put for me...
 

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Posted by James Wilson (Member # 4620) on July 02, 2015, 06:44 AM:
 
Hi,
does anybody know if these kits are ready. to use.
Thanks. (Right now we only have a kit for this bulb)
a bit ambiguous.
 

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Posted by Myron Baron (Member # 1007) on July 02, 2015, 07:37 AM:
 
James:
The only kit that is ready right now is for the CXL/CXR 8V 50W bulb, go to the top of this posting. But if there is enough of a call for the other type bulbs above, I will start to make a kit for this bulb. (see Steves post). The kit I have now gives offf very little heat, I can stop the projetor with the film still in the gate and it will not burn, I have done this for twenty min. already, and then started the projector. Right now my kit is putting out 1400 lumens, its just as bright as the bulb or maybe a little brighter. There is no color loss, the LED is cool white. The reason the kit is $185.00 is because there is quite a lot of machining involved, it takes me three hours to get the piece ready for LED insertion, plus the wiring involved. Don't forget the cost of the electronic parts. All the recipient has to do is insert the LED and attach two wires. It is set to go. Go to http://www.dvds2envy.com go to the cxl/cxr replacement tab, check out the demo. Any further info needed do not hesitate to ask.
Myron
 

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Posted by Steve Carter (Member # 4821) on July 02, 2015, 08:11 AM:
 
I am really looking for a led that can use the existing 15v out-put of the projector with a small mod if necessary and be a straight swap out. The day will come when this is possible I believe,and can be much brighter. I could not be doing with a separate power supply...
 

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Posted by Dominique De Bast (Member # 3798) on July 02, 2015, 08:38 AM:
 
I would also be reluctant to modify the projector but would be more than intersted in a bulb that could give the same (or more) illumination without (or with few) heatness.
 

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Posted by Steve Carter (Member # 4821) on July 02, 2015, 08:52 AM:
 
When you consider how LED stage lighting has come on in the last 5-8 years, the brightness with much less power consumption is phenomenal, so why can't this be achieved on a domestic scale. If super 8 projectors were still being produced in high quantities I am sure LED lighting would be a selling point and indeed the way forward...
 

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Posted by James Wilson (Member # 4620) on July 02, 2015, 08:55 AM:
 
Hi Myron,
Thanks for your quick response, that has made things a lot clearer.
James.
 

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Posted by Myron Baron (Member # 1007) on July 04, 2015, 11:51 AM:
 
To all:
I wonder how many people would purchase the 15V 100W bulb in LED, I purchased one and I have a way to convert it to LED, but it encompasses using an external power supply and LED Driver, for which I can get up to 2100 Lumens output. It would install the same way you remove your old bulb, but you would have to connect two wires from outside and bring them into the bulb cage. I know every projector is different, you would have to figure that out for your selves, it is only common sense, you do not want the two wires near any moving parts, I have an old Elmo 8mm projector with no way to go under neath and bring up the wires, but I notice on the back there is ventilation groves, which I could bring the wires through and tape them to the motor housing, they say where there is a will there is a way, I find it very true. Please let me hear from interested parties, as I do not want to invest the time and money and then am stuck with something no one wants to purchase.
Thank you
Myron
 

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Posted by Dominique De Bast (Member # 3798) on July 04, 2015, 12:24 PM:
 
I personnally would like a bulb that fits the existing bulb holder without need of extra external wires.
 

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Posted by Barry Fritz (Member # 1865) on July 04, 2015, 08:50 PM:
 
I'm with Dominique.
 

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Posted by Steve Carter (Member # 4821) on July 05, 2015, 08:31 AM:
 
I am also with Dominique, it has to be a straight swap-out for me, no wires running through air vents, no extra power supply/drivers. I'm sure there is some-one some-where who has the ability and technical know-how, it must be there, I'm just waiting...
 

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Posted by Myron Baron (Member # 1007) on July 05, 2015, 11:18 AM:
 
With out the recipient making the electrical changes himself, and not adding anything except the LED bulb, I do not see ow it can be done. Not all these bulbs are 15V 150W, some are different voltages and Watts. I would like to meet the person who can find a way to do this, as there are to many variables.
Myron
 

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Posted by Brian Fretwell (Member # 4302) on July 05, 2015, 01:51 PM:
 
I see what the output of the LED is, but not how much gets through the gate and lens. Is there a condenser lens front of the 3 LEDS shown?
I don't know about 15v LED packages but there are lots of 12v ones in the rights size mounts for projectors, but as I said, how do you ensure all the light goes through the projector gate?
 

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Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on July 05, 2015, 02:05 PM:
 
If I could potentially get 2100 lumens out of the tiny gate of my Bauer T610 and therefore even more from my two bladed Beaulieu, then I would certainly be interested in principle Myron.
 

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Posted by Myron Baron (Member # 1007) on July 05, 2015, 09:57 PM:
 
Andre and Brian
No matter what I do, even 12v system, you will still need a Driver for the LED, and for the 2100 lumens you will at least need a 12DC 5Amp power supply. So as far as I can see that would have to be mounted outside the projector, If I thought I could do it with out going outside the projector then I would do it.

notice the driver is velcroed to the back of the projector, the wires fro the driver are run under the projector to the bulb cage. All I can say it wrks fine and take less then 15min. to install.
 

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Posted by Paul Thrussell (Member # 4241) on July 05, 2015, 11:30 PM:
 
That looks amazing! I hate those stupid, expensive 'Diver Dan' bulbs, and to my knowledge the ones for sale these days are all NOS, aren't they? Which means that they'll continue to go up in price until they're gone forever.
 

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Posted by Alan Gouger (Member # 31) on July 06, 2015, 01:38 AM:
 
This is very interesting. LED makes sense. I thought there was another thread where someone had tried an LED flash lite, not sure if it was this forum.
 

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Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on July 06, 2015, 03:09 AM:
 
Yes it was on here Alan about two month ago if memory serves me correctly.

All of my machines have spare space at the bottom or inside the projector for a nimble PSU. I would be more concerned with the best way to automate the lamp circuit,but this isn't too difficult using an electrical switching device off the existing lamp circuit.

Diode and relay in lamp circuit for example.
 

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Posted by Myron Baron (Member # 1007) on July 06, 2015, 07:52 AM:
 
Andrew there is nothing t do with this set up, I never even go to the light on part of the switch, I only use run, as the LED driver is separate and this generates the light, it is really very simple set up to install and use.
Myron
 

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Posted by Steve Carter (Member # 4821) on July 06, 2015, 08:11 AM:
 
Myron on a sound projector there are three stages 1 motor (load film) 2 light and motor, 3 light, motor and sound...
 

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Posted by Myron Baron (Member # 1007) on July 06, 2015, 09:33 AM:
 
Steve, regarding the sound projector, I guess you have no choice but to use the last movement on the switch, run, light and sound. but even in the light mode, there is no contact with the old electrical contact for the bulb, using the LED. Like I said previously, all you do is insert the LED in place of the old bulb, no need to do any electrical disconnect to the old wiring.
 

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Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on July 06, 2015, 11:06 AM:
 
Oh ok Myron but I thought you mentioned the LED lamps needed a separate PSU? Have I misunderstood?
 

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Posted by Myron Baron (Member # 1007) on July 06, 2015, 12:44 PM:
 
Steve look at the photo above, you see there is an PS out plug lying on the table under the LED driver, not plugged in yet.
Myron
 

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Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on July 06, 2015, 12:51 PM:
 
Ah yes, thanks Myron for clarifying.
 

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Posted by Adam Deierling (Member # 2307) on July 06, 2015, 11:54 PM:
 
What wattage leds are you using? Where do you get them?
 

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Posted by Steve Carter (Member # 4821) on July 07, 2015, 04:04 AM:
 
A LED driver cost is a minimal amount, around £5 -£7 GB, cheaper still if you buy from China. So all in all the set up cost's buttons, as cheap technology becomes more readily available to the masses...
 

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Posted by Myron Baron (Member # 1007) on July 07, 2015, 06:23 AM:
 
Steve:
I use http://www.LEDsupply.com the person's name is Dave. You can buy all LED supplys from them at a reasonable cost. Dave is very helpful. will answer all your questions.
Myron
 

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Posted by Steve Carter (Member # 4821) on July 07, 2015, 07:04 AM:
 
Thanks Myron, I believe if something like this single LED Single Led could be used with high out-put, it would focus on the gate like a A1 232 15v 150w halogen lamp, you could indeed be on to a winner. I think you would need some sort of heat sink for this type of LED...
 

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Posted by Terry Sills (Member # 3309) on July 07, 2015, 10:25 AM:
 
I started a topic on this very subject back in April which involved the possible use of Cree lamps to replace old projector lamps. They are available in many different voltages, but I'm not sure whether they can be run directly on the the voltage produced by the projector, or whether a 'driver' is needed. Perhaps Myron or some other technically minded member could look into this. It is a very exciting topic because of the low cost, very long lamp life and the fact that it is 'cold' light.
 

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Posted by Adam Deierling (Member # 2307) on July 07, 2015, 11:13 AM:
 
From my testing I have learned that a driver is needed as the voltage from the lamp socket is AC and the LED bulbs require DC current. The driver will convert the voltage to the correct specs required to run the LED.
 

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Posted by Terry Sills (Member # 3309) on July 07, 2015, 11:56 AM:
 
Well if the drivers are small enough maybe it could be mounted inside the projector casing and fed from the projector instead of from an outside source?
 

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Posted by Myron Baron (Member # 1007) on July 07, 2015, 01:06 PM:
 
Terry:
the drivers are about 2 1/2" Long by 2" wide by 1' deep, you cannot run with the voltage coming from the projector, as it is AC and the LED's require DC and anywhere from 1amp to 5amp DC output. When the projectors are designed, they do not leave any room for anything else to be inserted into the unit, that is why we have to do it from outside. If you read all the previous posts all your concerns are answered.
Myron
 

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Posted by Terry Sills (Member # 3309) on July 07, 2015, 01:37 PM:
 
Myron
That maybe the case for 8mm projectors, but with many 35, 16 and 9.5mm machines there would be plenty of room in the lamphouse, once the old incandescent bulb is removed, to easily fit a driver of that size. Amperage would be no problem as most of the old incandescent bulbs draw at least 5 amps. Anyone tried it with anything other that 8mm?
 

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Posted by Brian Fretwell (Member # 4302) on July 07, 2015, 04:18 PM:
 
If they need DC a bridge rectifier diode array is very small and would fit into all projectorsas the current drain would be very small so a high power one wouldn't be needed, and very easy to wire in the line to lamp.
GU10 mains voltage LEDs are common and I use a 12v one off an electronic transformer (not an LED driver but one for halogen lamps). In fact I tried an 12v LED in a Eumig S905 using them. As I only had a 20 LED 1.9W lamp the results were not good enough for projection as very little light went through the gate. It would do for direct telecine transfer I suspect.
 

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Posted by Myron Baron (Member # 1007) on July 07, 2015, 05:19 PM:
 
Terry
Right now I am only doing the cxl/cxr for 8mm projectors, when I start selling these, then I will do another projector, there are so many out there, it would be impossible to do the LED for all of them.
Myron
 

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Posted by Terry Sills (Member # 3309) on July 08, 2015, 02:00 AM:
 
Myron
Yes I understand. It will be a monumental task to accommodate everyone's demands, but good luck in your venture. I fear though, as Andy and Dom have mooted , that most people would much prefer not to have an external power supply. Maybe in time someone will produce LED's that run off AC power. That would make matters so much easier.
 

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Posted by Mark Todd (Member # 96) on July 08, 2015, 03:20 AM:
 
Great Stuff Myron, and the sqaure cree LED chips offer some great future high lightoutput possibilities.

Good luck etc and thank you.

Best mark.
 

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Posted by Steve Carter (Member # 4821) on July 08, 2015, 04:27 PM:
 
Myron I think something in this style maybe...
Spot LED
 

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Posted by Myron Baron (Member # 1007) on July 09, 2015, 07:20 AM:
 
Steve, that is a fine idea, with some one who has all the manufacturing capabilities, that requires quite a bit of capital, I'm not in that position. I go on the internet web sites and I find quite a lot of how to build it, infact their is a guy named Vortash on google plus, he shows you hot to do it in a video, (also on YouTube) check it out, but Vortash is an electrical engineer and has more technical know how than I do, let me know what you think. He infact gave me my idea, which I showed t him and he thought it was good. Have fun!
Myron
 

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Posted by Narendra Singh (Member # 4945) on July 12, 2015, 03:58 PM:
 
I purchased "H4/9003 CREE LED 30W Head Light Lamp" as an alternate to my MONTGOMERY WARDS 805 Projector lamp. It is a complete self contained unit with current control moduel. I am giving this a try. Will try and post few pics of my contraption.

Note: The current control module is incased in a steel enclosure which acts as an heat sink. However this casing heats up considerably and hence should be anchored to any steel/ aluminum portion inside the Projector.

I have removed the steel plate (the one with three jetting out prongs) and the white plastic base (disc) under the steel plate by removing the two screws. Please see photo in the eBay Ad.

I now need to cover the LED shaft with an opaque PVC tube and cutting an appropriate size hole in line with the three leds.

The LEDs light as such don't emit any heat but the base of the LEDs heat and thus proper and adequate heat sink with fan has been provided.

To power the unit, you need a cheap laptop power supply with 12 to 20 Volt DC, 4.5Amp or more output.

While modifying any vintage machine my aim is to (as far as possible) leave the original lamp fittings intact. The LED Lamp modification should go as an add-on.

One might like to give this a try as well.

H4/9003 - http://www.ebay.com/itm/191403187748?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=ST RK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[ July 12, 2015, 05:03 PM: Message edited by: Narendra Singh ]
 

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Posted by Steve Carter (Member # 4821) on July 13, 2015, 04:14 AM:
 
Thanks Narendra, I think I will try this for my Sankyo Dualux, just found one on UK Ebay, although it's from China...
Cree 30w
 

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Posted by Myron Baron (Member # 1007) on July 13, 2015, 04:40 PM:
 
Singh:
I see what your doing, but what I do not understand, all the posts above want an LED with out any outside the projector power source, I see by your post that this is not possible as I said previously. I'm working on one now that's very similar to yours, but gives off way less heat. In a couple of weeks I will put it up on the forum with a link to a video, using a Elmo, K-110SM movie projector. I know yours will work also. Good Luck.
Myron
 

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Posted by Narendra Singh (Member # 4945) on July 13, 2015, 06:16 PM:
 
Dear Myron,

I do understand your post and reading between the lines, I get a feeling that I am trying to step on your toes. I am new to this forum and I have come here to learn and share. I am in no way trying to compete with you or for that matter with anybody else on this esteemed forum. Said that, in case I have inadvertently tried to step on your toes I humbly apologize and I am sorry for the same.

Thank you.

Best regards,

Narendra
 

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Posted by Myron Baron (Member # 1007) on July 13, 2015, 06:56 PM:
 
Narendra
I am sorry if I gave you that impression, I thought that what you were doing was to all the posts that were above your post. I have designed a LED to replace a standard projector bulb. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNA1vffiHrE) I thought what your were posting was in reference to the postings above, you are not stepping on anyone's toes, I read your post and I assumed that your were referring to what Steve was talking about above, an all in one LED, no outside power sources, and I do not think it can be done, with out quite a few internal modifications, my LED kit, has only two wires to connect in the projector, the rest is mounted outside, as there is not enough room to mount them inside.
Sorry for the misunderstanding.
Myron
Myron
 

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Posted by Narendra Singh (Member # 4945) on July 13, 2015, 08:31 PM:
 
Hi Myron,

Thank you for clearing the misunderstanding. I am sorry for my thoughts drifting in the other direction. No hard feelings here. All's well that ends well.

Best regards,

Narendra

OK back on topic with a smile.

I agree with you that it is difficult (if not impossible) to have one single unit LED light source suitable for projection which can be driven directly by 110V AC mains. For this the main limiting factor will be the size of the whole LED unit that can fit inside the original lamp housing which is generally a small and restricted space.

Considering the above I am also working with another type of LED source which I purchased last month. This has all the required components built in (the LEDs with reflector/LED driver/Heat sink - the aluminum body acts as the heat sink). However it needs an external 9 Volt, 2.5Amp or more DC power source. The overall size of the unit is small (approx. 2" X 2") The item is:-

High Power 6000LM 5 x CREE XM-L T6 LED Bicycle Light Headlamp
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331454954281?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=ST RK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I have already given this (the second unit mentioned above) a crude trial (by holding the unit in hand) on one of my 8mm projectors, but I find that the result is not as satisfactory as I would like.

Hope somebody can work on this as well.

[ July 13, 2015, 11:06 PM: Message edited by: Narendra Singh ]
 

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Posted by Alan Gouger (Member # 31) on July 14, 2015, 01:46 AM:
 
Myron and Narendra alternative light source has always interested me. This is fascinating. I plan to do some experimenting as well now that the both of you have lit a fire on this topic.
Have ether of you considered building a light box separate from the projector and feeding the projector a fiber optic tube which would transmit the light very close to the gate with little to no heat. You would no longer have restrictions on internal work space due to size of projector and you can now increase brightness even further just throw a muffin fan on the box.
The new D-cinema laser projectors are doing just that. The laser components sit in a separate chiller box aside the projector. Light enters the projector via fiber optic tubes.


 

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Posted by Steve Carter (Member # 4821) on July 14, 2015, 04:11 AM:
 
What a brilliant concept, I never thought of fiber-optic the light source you use can be as high as you would like,and with next to no light spillage, as the fiber-optic would be directed at the gate. This subject gets more interesting post by post...
 

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Posted by frank arnstein (Member # 330) on July 14, 2015, 04:41 AM:
 
Hi Myron.

You haven't answered Brians earlier question yet and I am also curious.

He said......

"I see what the output of the LED is, but not how much gets through the gate and lens. Is there a condenser lens front of the 3 LEDS shown?"

So just how much of the light output of the 3 LEDs is actually going to make it through the aperture and to the lens?

None of the LEDs are directly in front of the aperture.
So how are you going to bend the light or aim the 3 LEDs so all the light output converges into a tight beam and goes through.?
Have you measured the amount of light coming out of the aperture?

dogtor frankarnstein
 

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Posted by Steve Carter (Member # 4821) on July 14, 2015, 05:05 AM:
 
Maybe this could be adapted CREE LED Spot-light for A1 232...
CREE LED Spot
 

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Posted by Myron Baron (Member # 1007) on July 14, 2015, 06:36 AM:
 
Steve
Yes the is an optic condenser in front of the light to make sure all the light goes thru the gate.
Myron
 

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Posted by Steve Carter (Member # 4821) on July 14, 2015, 06:40 AM:
 
Thanks for reply Myron, but I did not ask the question, it was dogtor frankarnstein who asked about the condenser...
 

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Posted by Myron Baron (Member # 1007) on July 14, 2015, 07:59 AM:
 
Frank
Your way out of my realm, I have no idea about your subject Laser Optics, though it sounds very interesting, I'm a little to old to start learning this now(80 yrs old) Sounds very interesting and also very expensive. It is hard for me to believe, this whole forum started with my posting about replacing a CXL/CXR 8V 60W bulb with my replacement kit to LED. I hope your project comes to fruition. Good luck
Myron
 

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Posted by Narendra Singh (Member # 4945) on July 14, 2015, 09:05 AM:
 
Myron Baron wrote:

quote:

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It is hard for me to believe, this whole forum started with my posting about replacing a CXL/CXR 8V 60W bulb with my replacement kit to LED.

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