8mm Forum: EUMIG & Anamorphic Lens

This is topic EUMIG & Anamorphic Lens in forum 8mm Forum at 8mm Forum.

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Posted by Henry Perangelo (Member # 40) on July 21, 2003, 02:21 PM:

Does anyone “out there” have any experience with connecting a Scope/Anamorphic lens to a EUMIG projector? If so, what lens do you recommend & how did you mount it to the projector. I see many references for doing this with Elmo projectors, but no information on hooking it up with a EUMIG.

Thanks,
-Henry-

Posted by Paul Suchy (Member # 80) on July 21, 2003, 02:45 PM:

Dear Henry,
I made all sorts of adapters for connecting a scope lens designed for 16mm, and they worked okay. I even bought one designed for 8mm projectors, but the results were awful, so I returned it. On the previous forum, it was suggested that buying a 35mm scope lens was a good solution: just line it up infront of the lens and adjust the focal length (the focal length of the lens I have goes down to 17 feet and even a bit under). The results are spectacular, and you can use it for any projector-I use it for 2 super 8 projectors and one 16mm. The person who made this suggestion (I think it was Chip) said to have two blocks of wood cut with a "V" shape to hold the lens in place. When I first got my lens, I used a short stack of books and a cradled the lens with a bag of rice. The lens I purchased was from a supply house in Florida-they post a few on ebay now and then. I paid about $125.00, but this huge lens will work with anything you place behind it.

Posted by Henry Perangelo (Member # 40) on July 21, 2003, 03:38 PM:

Thanks Paul. Do you know who manufactures you lens?

-Henry-

Posted by Tim Christian (Member # 48) on July 21, 2003, 04:17 PM:

The later Eumigs, 800, 900 series, have a mechanical socket to the side of the lens for the daylight viewer attachment. A good lens mount is an alloy bracket with plugs to suit the sockets, and a plastic pipe clip to hold the anamorphic.

Posted by Steve Klare (Member # 12) on July 21, 2003, 10:04 PM:

How much (if any) gap should there be between the prime projection lens and the anamorphic?

Posted by Tim Christian (Member # 48) on July 22, 2003, 04:57 AM:

Enought to be able to move the primary lens for focusing, but not too much otherwise it'll vignette.

Set the primary lens as far out as you need for the minimum screen distance. Measure the position. Set the anamorphic to just clear that position.

Posted by Douglas Meltzer (Member # 28) on July 22, 2003, 08:11 AM:

Since there is light loss involved when adding a scope lens, if you can increase the distance from projector to screen so that the projector's lens can be at full telephoto, you'll have a sharper & brighter image with less chance of vignetting.
Doug

Posted by Tony Milman (Member # 7) on July 22, 2003, 10:55 AM:

Doug,

Physics and optics were never my strong point, is there an optimum for projection? Presumably the further away you are from the screen the greater the distance light has to travel so at some point you will suffer light loss? I am familiar with camera zooms such that say a 35-70 lens will (in most cases) suffer light loss at the 70mm end, do projector lenses work in reverse? Sorry to be thick!

Tony [Confused]

Posted by Douglas Meltzer (Member # 28) on July 22, 2003, 01:02 PM:

Tony,
That was actually a tip from Chip(!) on the old forum. You are absolutely right about camera zooms. The quality tends to diminish as you get to the extremes of the telephoto range. With projectors though, you are basically concentrating the light onto a smaller plane. The wide angle disperses the beam over a greater area. I did a test with my GS-1200, first using the standard 1.1 lens, the suggested 24v 200watt ESC bulb, and my trusty Spectra light meter. With a 12 foot throw, and the bulb switch at normal, I read 12 footcandles with the lens at it's widest. After zooming in all the way I had a reading of 32 footcandles. When the bulb switch was set to bright, I had 14 fc for the wide and 48 fc for the telephoto. Even with moving the projector as far back as possible (The apartment's not that big) the image is far better using the
telephoto end than keeping the projector closer to the screen.
Doug

Posted by Paul Suchy (Member # 80) on July 22, 2003, 03:17 PM:

Dear Henry,
My lens is an ISCO-GOTTINGEN Anamorphic lens Model KA298, made in Germany. The minimum focal setting mark is 17 feet, but it goes even further down than that, so it will do the trick in any decent size room.

Posted by Henry Perangelo (Member # 40) on July 23, 2003, 01:05 AM:

Paul,

Thanks for the response. I'll try to grab a ISCO-GOTTINGEN Anamorphic lens Model KA298. By the way --- do you have that configured with a EUMIG?

-Henry-

Posted by Paul Suchy (Member # 80) on July 23, 2003, 04:37 PM:

Dear Henry,
I've never owned a Eumig, but I hear they are great machines. I'm an Elmo kinda guy, and I can't go with projectors that have anything less than a 1200' reel capacity because all my features are on those massive reels.

Posted by Paul Adsett (Member # 25) on July 25, 2003, 04:16 PM:

Hi Henry,
To project CinemaScope prints using my Eumig 800 and 900 series projectors I use the following hardware:

Projector lens: Eastman Kodak Ektar 22mm F1.0 fixed focus prime lens. No zoom elements means you get a very bright picture with superb contrast. I got this off an old S8mm Kodak Pageant sound projector- it is a superb lens.

Scope Bracket: Old Spondon scope bracket from Derann. With a special adapter I got made so it could locate into the two daylight viewer holes on the front of the Eumigs.

Scope Lens; Iscomorphat 16/2X (Made in Germany)

Posted by Henry Perangelo (Member # 40) on July 28, 2003, 02:20 PM:

Everyone,

Thanks for the responses! I'll post an update as soon as I get my projector configured for scope!

-Henry-

Posted by John Cook (Member # 203) on June 16, 2005, 12:01 AM:

Will an Isco work on a GS1200? How much closer than 17 feet will this lens focus?

Regards, John

Posted by Edwin van Eck (Member # 4690) on February 26, 2015, 02:07 AM:

We have now developed a scope / anamorphic lens adaptor for the Eumig 9- series using the latest 3D printing technology:

See: http://shop.van-eck.net/PP-0063.html?_globalsearch=pp-0063

If you require such an adaptor for an other projector, please let me know, and I will investigate if we can bring this on the market.

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on February 26, 2015, 03:45 AM:

I wouldn't mind an adaptor for the Beaulieu that accepts the Kowa8z if you could design one as a replica of the FFR Filmtechnik ones.

It would need a hotshoe adaptor just like theirs Edwin.

It also needs a split in the ring to be able to fit this larger sized diameter anamorphic.

Let me know if you can create one please.

As a guide Edwin, the FFR ones made of steel cost 80 euros.

The Beaulieu Stereo comes with its own ring and hotshoe arrangement but only accepts the smaller diameter Proskar Anamorphic which I don't feel is quite AS sharp as the Kowa 8z.

This is the Proskar one currently used:

This is the bracket I would require Edwin:

[ February 26, 2015, 05:40 AM: Message edited by: Andrew Woodcock ]

Posted by Paul Adsett (Member # 25) on February 26, 2015, 09:15 AM:

Andrew's Beaulieu looks incredible with that scope lens mounted on it. What a great set up!

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on February 26, 2015, 09:26 AM:

It is a gorgeous machine in use Paul. I wouldn't be without it!

This photo I found, shows the lens at a better angle. I am sure one would feel quite at home in your beautiful home cinema room Paul.

[ March 10, 2015, 04:56 PM: Message edited by: Andrew Woodcock ]

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on February 27, 2015, 04:08 PM:

Any news on this Edwin?

Posted by Edwin van Eck (Member # 4690) on March 03, 2015, 01:12 AM:

Hi,

The adaptor for the Beaulieu 708 projector is currently not on top of my project list. Why would I invest in designing this one? FFR already has this available.

For many other projectors there are no adaptors available. So I will first put our efforts in designing adaptors for those projectors.

If you require one, please let me know!

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on March 03, 2015, 02:54 PM:

I will source from FFR then Edwin, thanks.

Just thought these may have been able to manufactured for much less using 3D for the most part. Only the thumb screw would have to be outside sourced and they are readily available from engineering suppliers in Stainless Steel.

Posted by Edwin van Eck (Member # 4690) on March 04, 2015, 02:10 AM:

Hi,

3D printing is currently very handy for small and complex parts.

The prices for big parts are now quite high. But I think these prices will drop over time.

As there are so many parts needed, I start now with the smaller ones first and later the bigger.

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