8mm Forum: Just how do you stripe?

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Posted by Simon McConway (Member # 219) on January 05, 2005, 02:15 PM:

Can someone tell me how the devil you get the stripe to stick to the film. I've got the striper, adhesive and stripe, but just what are the secrets? Do you have to clean the film with something? And how do you begin to get the srtipe to adhere? Yes, I use EvT magnetics professional service (much better than my attempts), since throwing the striper across the floor, but just wondered if anyone else had had success at home.

Posted by Tim Christian (Member # 48) on January 06, 2005, 06:42 AM:

Questions: what sort of striper do you have? Have you read through this article ?

Film needs thorough cleaning, expecially if it has been covered with some of the sticky goos that pass for lubrication. Clean with Isopropyl alcohol at least twice. In addition, if it has been heavily lubricated, clean with petrol (lighter fuel is fine) at least once on the base (shiny) side.

Home striping does work well if you get the conditions right, and know a few tricks. Once you tell me the type of striper, I can give you more.

Posted by Richard Ward (Member # 106) on January 06, 2005, 12:53 PM:

I have a Jewell striper and live in the USA. Where can I get striping material? I don't understand German, so I can't communicate with the vendor listed in the article.

Thanks,

Richard

Posted by Tim Christian (Member # 48) on January 06, 2005, 02:28 PM:

Your best bet is Wittner, but you could tryPhil Sheard and see if he has any left.

Posted by Simon McConway (Member # 219) on January 06, 2005, 04:01 PM:

My striper is the Supersound motorised version; looks like a suitcase. Or, I have the Rexette. Advice for sucess, rather than a pile of stripe all over the kitchen floor. A pox on it!

Posted by Tim Christian (Member # 48) on January 06, 2005, 05:30 PM:

This version uses a transfer wheel to apply cement to the film, like the unmotorized one, if it is the one I remember. The cement for this and the Rexette was quite thick, so it stuck onto the transfer wheel long enough to get to the film. The last supply of this cement, in the UK, was Spondon, but they seem to be out of business, although the web site is still there.

In principle, you can make a cement by dissolving (clear) acetate film in a mixture of acetone and 1-4 dioxane until it has the consistency of single cream or evaporated milk.

Always put an extra 6' or so of white leader on the ends of the film before striping, then clean as in my last post.

There are two important criteria with this type of machine. The level of cement in the bath is important: too much and it will be spread over the film. Make sure that the transfer wheel is rotating smoothly: any stops and there will be a length of unattached stripe.

Finally, make sure that the striped film winds tightly onto the take-up reel - fasten it with a clip or masking tape, then leave it there overnight so that the cement dries.

Once the cement has set, you can do the second stripe (I tend to do the balance stripe first to get the worst bit over with!). After striping and setting, run the film across rewind arms and check every inch of it, particularly at splices (which should be bevelled types). If a short length of stripe lifts, apply a little cement to the outside edge of film and stripe with a very fine brush. Capillary action will draw it in. Now hold that length of film over a radiused surface - a 3" diameter glass or jar is fine - for five minutes before winding it on.

The Supersound/Rexette type machines do work, but because of the tendency for cement to squeeze out from under the stripe, they are best for Standard 8. The most reliable machines for S8 are the Weberling type, although the Carnall, capillary types work too.

Hope this helps.

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