8mm Forum: Sankyo 600 projector motor problem

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Posted by Paul Brandes (Member # 2046) on September 25, 2010, 03:46 AM:

Hi

I have a Sankyo 600 projector which was working perfectly until a couple of days ago. I ran a couple of sound films and it worked perfectly. Now, as I turn the rotary switch to run it, nothing happens. The lamp is powering up and goes to its full brightness when I turn the switch to that setting but the motor is not running at all. I thought it may have been a blown fuse, but after having a careful look inside, I cant locate a fuse. I would be grateful for any advice on this.

Thank you

Regards

Paul

Posted by Josef Grassmann (Member # 378) on September 25, 2010, 07:17 AM:

It sounds that motor control-circuit has died.
If fuse is burnt replacement will not solve it, as as motor-control-circuit is defctive.
Try both speed and forward and backward. If nothing happend than it is as decribed before.

Josef

Posted by Paul Brandes (Member # 2046) on September 25, 2010, 03:20 PM:

Hi Josef,

Many thanks for your reply. I have tried both speeds and forward and reverse and nothing is happening.

Regards

Paul

Posted by Lance Alspaugh (Member # 27) on September 25, 2010, 08:35 PM:

Good Day,

We have the same problem. Is the motor control circuit a fixable problem or is it the end?

Posted by Paul Brandes (Member # 2046) on September 25, 2010, 09:01 PM:

hi Lance,

I believe the problem is fixable. Firstly, I have to definitely establish if the motor control circuit is the problem. It may be a faulty switch or something very simple. I have a local electronics technician who repaired my other Sankyo which had electrical problems.I would think that if the fault can be narrowed down to a circuit/circuit board, and from the components I have seen inside the projector , they look readily obtainable. If the tech who fixed my other Sankyo cant solve it, I will send it to another experienced technician I have heard about. I will post again, when I get an answer.

Regards

Paul

Posted by Steve Klare (Member # 12) on September 25, 2010, 09:57 PM:

The thing you need to be on the watch for is the possibility that it could be something simple, like an open connection between the speed control circuit and the motor. Years and years of oxidation and vibration just may have caused some connection or conductor to be open circuited.

If you can get in there with some sort of voltage indicator (meter, test light, etc.) and look at the output of the control circuit, you can see if you're getting voltage or not. If you are then you check the voltage at the motor. If you have no voltage at the control, your control is dead. If you have good voltage at the motor, your motor is dead. If you have good voltage at the control and nothing at the motor it's probably the wiring in between.

Sometimes a little cleaning, tightening or soldering will set everything right again.

It could be some big problem too, it's just best to check out the easy fixes first rather than send a machine to the shelf.

Posted by Paul Brandes (Member # 2046) on September 25, 2010, 10:29 PM:

Hi Steve,

Many thanks for your suggestions. I dont think I have the necessary expertise to track down the fault assuming its on a control circuit. I plan to get a technician to look at it as it will most likely save a lot of time. Its a very nice machine that has had very little use and had been stored. I am optimistic that it can be fixed.

Regards

Paul

Posted by Steve Klare (Member # 12) on September 25, 2010, 10:37 PM:

Wish I was there, Paul!

Always wanted to visit Australia anyway!

PS: If you can dig up some wiring diagrams it will make it much easier for the tech.

Good Luck!

Posted by Paul Brandes (Member # 2046) on September 25, 2010, 10:56 PM:

Hi Steve

Many thanks

Regards

Paul

Posted by Mark L Barton (Member # 1512) on September 27, 2010, 10:16 AM:

I had the same problem happen to two Sankyo 800's. The lamp would come on, but no motor etc. Turned out it was a large resistor on the motor conrol board, thats all it was. Now I don't know if the 600 and 800 share similar boards but its a possibility. The repair was made on both occassions by a technical specialist in my place of work (who also got my GS1200 running sweetly) I could contact him and ask if he remembers which part it was. Otherwise if you have a schematics then the component to look for on the motor control board is the really big capacitor ( It think) you will see it as its the biggest component on the board (and readily available) Cheers

Posted by Paul Brandes (Member # 2046) on September 27, 2010, 03:08 PM:

Hi Mark

Many thanks for the reply. I have been unable to get the 600 running so far. If you could find out which part on the board of your 800 was faulty I would be grateful.It is starting to look like i will have to get a camera technician to look at it.

Regards

Paul

Posted by Paul Brandes (Member # 2046) on November 14, 2010, 05:30 PM:

Problem on Sankyo 600 projector found. It is repairable.
I was told by the man who initially looked at my Sankyo 600 that the motor was fine. It appears the fault is on a PC board and is related to motor control. Since the electronics use discrete components it can be repaired. I was told it would take a while though.
Thanks to all who helped.

Regards

Paul

Posted by Phil Mitchell (Member # 3876) on June 30, 2014, 02:11 AM:

Hi Paul,

Just found this thread from awhile ago, Janice and I are having same problem, well mine is like yours, Unit just stopped while running a film, got film out and then next day it would run and then nothing.
Unit stil has power to rest of projector i.e sound and lamp.

Did you manage to find out what your one had wrong?

I did notice when I took out the white and blue wires to motor which has the belt on it, that a spring to hold the brushes was missing and there was a fair bit of fluff dust that came out when I unscrewed the black connector for the white wire.

Someone also mentioned the switch behind the selector knob, only way one can even see it is from underneath unit with front panel off.

I will post this thread to where Janice & I have posted about this same Unit in another thread.
Cheers
Phil

Posted by Paul Brandes (Member # 2046) on June 30, 2014, 03:10 AM:

Hi Phil,

Many thanks for the reply. Through a friend who was in electronic repairs, I ended up finding a very good electronics tech near me. It was I believe, a motor circuit board problem which he fixed and the projector runs very well. I wasn't aware of the switch behind the selector knob,but will try and find it. I bought the service manual for a Bell and Howell DCM machine (currently not working) which is a re-badged Sankyo and gives some idea of the electronics in the 600. I mainly use a Sankyo 700 which I particularly like because it has a nice 10W sound output.

Regards

Paul

Posted by Phil Mitchell (Member # 3876) on August 12, 2014, 10:50 PM:

Hi Paul, sorry I have not replied since June, time flies when busy at work etc.

In regards to the motor control board, do you happen to know which board that is?

There are two smaller boards as you look from the back, one is in top right hand corner, it has the two grey capacitors on it, this board controls the speed etc of the motor I believe. There is a hidden small one behind main Power Board, where those miro switches are. Thanks Phil

What I have discovered since is switches are fine, but wiring to them and the small board had come loose and needs replacing which I am doing.

Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on August 12, 2014, 10:57 PM:

Hi Phil...glad to see you are still at it [Smile]

When you say you are replacing the small board...What does that mean? Are you replacing all the components on the PCB...moving old components to a new PCB... or finding a replacement board from another machine?

Posted by Phil Mitchell (Member # 3876) on August 12, 2014, 11:22 PM:

Hi Janice how are you.

Yes stil at it, I'm not replacing any boards at the moment, I was interested in which one was the motor control board but since I posted I thought about it and I suspect it is the top right hand one, as you may remember you advised me awhile back on how to adjust the speed of this projector by using the pots which are on that board, so one assumes from that it is the motor control board.

What I am doing is replacing the wiring from the switches to the smaller board that sits behind them, as wiring came off once I moved that board, luckly I took pictures as I did it so I know what goes where.

I got 2 new switches but they may be spares as it seems Micro switches are okay, I am reading up the thread where other people gave you instructions on how to use multimeter, as I need to understand that more. As I do have one switch wired up just okay and do get a milleamp reading of 0.81 from it and also from it's common Terminal when I have switch's plunger pushed in. ( That is how these switches make motor run forward or back.) which is what goes to small board and then to motor.

My brother suggested instead of soldering, I put new wires onto terminals to connect to switches, there is room above where switches sit in projector for them, good idea, as they are a bugger to solder. Wiring is only 1.5mm

It's a interesting set up.

You have the red power wire coming from the larger board where speed control is and that goes to a blade of one switch and then you have to run a shorter wire from there to give other switch power and same applies to negative black wire, although that runs from board to board first and then you have for middle blade white wire coming from small board or blue wire depending which switch.

Does that make any sense?

Cheers
Phil

Posted by Paul Brandes (Member # 2046) on August 13, 2014, 01:15 AM:

Hi Phil,
Sorry, I don't know which circuit board had the problem.It may be best to get a tech to look at it as you need experience to track down and repair this problem. In my opinion its worth it and will save a lot of time and frustration.
Regards
Paul

Posted by Phil Mitchell (Member # 3876) on August 14, 2014, 12:48 AM:

Thanks Paul,

Not so easy done in Australia no one in Melbourne Northern Subs does it, in fact only one person I have found who would even think about doing it is in Country NSW, freight of sending projector to him, just makes it not viable. $$$ wise.

Mate of mine, he knows more than I, just has to find time to come over.

Posted by Pete Richards (Member # 2203) on August 14, 2014, 04:47 AM:

Let me know which board, and I can send you a replacement board to test and see if that is the problem. You can just swap it out and see if it comes good.

Posted by Phil Mitchell (Member # 3876) on August 14, 2014, 05:46 AM:

Hi Pete thanks for post and offer, nice to see another Aussie on here.

I'm not certain yet if it is a board, just covering all bases.

I've been having a crash course in using Multimeter thanks to another user on this forum in another thread, very good of him to take time. Tomorrow as I have ran out of time today, I'm going to test with MM if the red and black wires that come down from what I suspect is motor control board ( although Pete you would know more which that one is from sounds of it) The two boards that are in play as I said I think in earlier post is the one at top right as you look from behind Unit, they have wiring that goes to a smaller board which is for the micro switches. I am hoping it is just a rewiring job as condition of those wires was poor. I have better wires now.

Pete do you have any knowledge on how the micro switches switches are wired?

I did take pictures before I unscrewed anything although wires just popped off, actually I think red power wire was already off both switches hence why it stopped working.

I still got fair enough pictures for my mate and I to have a fair idea.

To use the red power wire from top right board goes to one switch and then you have to run another shorter wire from it to power both switches.

Anyway thanks again.

I'll keep you posted with what MM says.

Phil

Posted by Paul Brandes (Member # 2046) on August 14, 2014, 02:53 PM:

Hi Phil,

I think I know the technician in NSW you are referring to. From personal experience, I found that a qualified electronics tech was the way to go. As far as it not being viable, it would depend on how much you plan to use the projector. These machines are not simple and require specific knowledge to get them running in top condition. In the past, when I have had a projector that wasnt able to be fixed, I simply bought another one. I had a Sankyo 700 fixed a while back. Well worth it and it runs beautifully. Take care,

Regards

Paul

Posted by Phil Mitchell (Member # 3876) on August 15, 2014, 03:08 AM:

Hi guys,

Paul yes I suspect you may, the guy in NSW is someone who sells parts and swaps for cleaning stuff, they’re are in Dubbo.
Camera check point.
Now my testing today has I think May of found culprit board.
Multimeter set to 200 DC Volts, I get 3.6volts from switches power terminal and neg or from white or blue wire for common, which are wires that go to motor. Now 3.6volts will not be enough to drive motor, a 9volt battery can only just do it.
Same reading when I test the small PCB where blue and white wire terminals connect from motor, 3.6. So one can assume switches and my soldering today is okay.

Now here comes where I feel issue is the red positive and negative wires that run from speed control board let’s call it, the top right hand one with a grey I think it is a capacitor has 63volts written on it. Those wires also give me 3.6volts.

Now wires going to and from this board blue and white which I gather are output for speed control switch below etc is 0.08v but there is a 2nd blue wire going to this board which I assume is power for it and I get 17.1 volts from it.

Pete do you have this board?
I’ve posted an image of it below.
Guys does the above make sense and sound right?
I will take board out tomorrow and check for bad solder etc, I did have a brief look at first investigation. But will look more carefully this time.

Thanks in advance

Phil

Posted by Pete Richards (Member # 2203) on August 18, 2014, 10:25 PM:

Yes, I have that board.

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