8mm Forum: BELL AND HOWELL 466A

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Posted by Jim Schrader (Member # 9) on December 14, 2010, 08:25 PM:

I just pick up one these form a thrift store for 10.00 there is one lever (CIRCLED IN RED) I am not aware of what it does I assume it is the speed lever? the unit runs very quiet until I flip this lever up and run it in forward then it sounds like something is grinding somewhere I cannot locate the source it runs fine in reverse and in 8mm setting and in super 8 setting but only makes the grinding noise when the lever is flipped up can someone elaborate on what this lever is for thanks.

Posted by Joseph Banfield (Member # 2082) on December 15, 2010, 08:53 AM:

Since it is next to the marking that says slow motion, I would assume this is what it does. I have a Bauer dual 8 projector that has slow motion too, and believe me, it does not work great and makes noise too! Basically a useless feature. I understand it was a desireable feauture for those who had porno films in their collection. On my Bauer sometimes it works and sometimes it does not...it is very finicky because of brittle gears in this area that tend to loose a tooth or two. When it does not work the film stops and if the shutter is open it will burn the film real fast, so watch out!

Posted by Jim Schrader (Member # 9) on December 15, 2010, 09:55 AM:

I did test this feature with some scrap film and it worked well but the bulb blew so i am not sure how it looked but it did advance frame by frame still cannot locate where the noise is coming from.

Posted by Winbert Hutahaean (Member # 58) on December 15, 2010, 11:41 AM:

quote:
desireable feauture for those who had porno films in their collection

ho..ho..ho.... Slow-mo porn....! [Big Grin]

Posted by Joseph Banfield (Member # 2082) on December 15, 2010, 12:46 PM:

I know it sounds crazy but when I first got that Bauer at a flea market for basically nothing and opened it up I found a torn two frame section of a film on the bottom of the inside of the case. Out of pure curiosity I held it up to the light with a magnifying glass and low and behold it was porn! LOL

Posted by Jim Schrader (Member # 9) on December 15, 2010, 01:05 PM:

does anybody know what the lever is suppose to do in the up setting and lower setting?

Posted by Douglas Meltzer (Member # 28) on December 15, 2010, 03:37 PM:

Jim,

I believe the lever needs to be in the down position to operate the speed control rheostat. Unfortunately that doesn't explain why the projector grinds when it's in the up position.

Doug

Posted by Jim Schrader (Member # 9) on December 15, 2010, 04:29 PM:

ok thanks i'll keep checking

Posted by Chip Gelmini (Member # 44) on December 15, 2010, 05:36 PM:

In most machines there's a drive shaft from the main worm gear which pivots left to right to make contact with the primary directional gears (forward or reverse). My guess is the alignment is not correct and/or broken gears.

That lever your are wondering on: should switch between normal play and slow motion control. And of course the round knob governs the actual slow motion speed. In later models that switch and knob assembly was replaced by a three step lever called "multimotion." It did the same thing but only through a 3 step setting (normal speed - slow speed - step motion).

You can find the next generation on Ebay looking at Sears Dual 8 Projectors....they show up from time to time.

Posted by Thomas Dafnides (Member # 1851) on December 15, 2010, 05:54 PM:

Back in the 60s and 70s it was common for high schools in the USA to film their football games in 8mm. The coach afterwards, would go over the plays in slow motion with the players for analysis. Also, slo-mo anaylsis of swings was used alot by golf players.

Posted by Jim Schrader (Member # 9) on December 15, 2010, 06:55 PM:

Iam assuming that up is normal speed I do not get the noise in the slower lower speed or in reverse that is what is so strange.

Posted by Jim Schrader (Member # 9) on January 17, 2011, 08:42 PM:

well the problem has been solved i sent it out to rence camera in michigan and jerry marr found a piece of glass stuck in the drive rubber must have been a blown bulb at one time not sure why this made noise only when the lever was in the up postion and in forward, anyhow that is what it was.

Posted by Dave Schmidt (Member # 2246) on January 17, 2011, 09:07 PM:

just wanted to clarify - the 466a does not have a rheostat but rather a variable pully to control the speed. Simply ingenious on the part of B&H,,,now if we could just get that particular model to ease up on the bulb popping.

Posted by Jim Schrader (Member # 9) on January 18, 2011, 09:37 AM:

yes those particular bulbs are expensive [Eek!]

good thing other cheaper bulbs can be substituted.

Posted by Dave Schmidt (Member # 2246) on January 18, 2011, 11:21 AM:

What bulb(s) have you been substituting? just as bright? Thanks!

Posted by Jim Schrader (Member # 9) on January 18, 2011, 04:16 PM:

I was told the DJL will work even though it is a 150w bulb instead odf 250w it still works fine just will not be able to set the unit as far back.

Posted by Dave Schmidt (Member # 2246) on January 18, 2011, 05:18 PM:

DJL's must be getting in short supply,,,bulb source put a limit of 2 per customer.

Posted by Jim Schrader (Member # 9) on January 21, 2011, 08:39 AM:

Another question can other bulbs be substituted for the originals
as long as they are within the wattage and voltage is there a cross reference site one can use for reference.

Posted by Dave Schmidt (Member # 2246) on January 21, 2011, 07:11 PM:

Trial and error is what i do. So far I am out out of trial,,,and full of error. My next quest is to put an led in a projector and see how that pans out. I currently have two B&H 466a's and one 456 - all with toasted lamps.

Posted by Jim Schrader (Member # 9) on January 21, 2011, 10:31 PM:

Well any bulb that is close to the 466a Bulbs with the voltage and wattage should work like a DFG,DJL just keep the original so one can compare its size.

Posted by Thomas Dafnides (Member # 1851) on January 22, 2011, 11:32 PM:

The key is that the filament distance from the base is the same as the original bulb. This I believe is difficult, which is why there are so many bulb types. The filament has to line up with film aperature and lens for full brightness. Otherwise, you may end up with uneven illumination on the screen.
I can never understand why after the introduction of the halogen bulb in the Eumig P8 automatic (around 1963) , all projector manufacturers did not settle on a few standard halogen bulb types.

Posted by George Tveden (Member # 3379) on February 11, 2014, 04:10 PM:

I was searching for variable speed information and came across this thread. I'm looking for info for a friend on wiring in a rheostat to control motor speed for fixed speed Bell & Howell projector 357. Plug-in lamp modules are useful for replacing the DLH and DJL lamps. The MR16 halogens are much less to replace than the old DJL, DLH and other internal reflector lamps, and they last much longer. Anyone that can help with the rheostat wiring thing I would appreciate. Thanks.

Posted by Pasquale DAlessio (Member # 2052) on February 11, 2014, 04:42 PM:

Jim

Check my posting on modifying this projector to take a much cheaper halogen bulb.

PatD

Posted by Joseph Collura (Member # 4151) on February 12, 2014, 09:38 AM:

Hello all,

I'm new here so, thanks to everyone involved in allowing me to be here. I believe I am the friend referred to in the post by G. Tveden. I'm converting some reels of super 8 film to digital and the B&H 357Z projector's fixed frame rate @ 18fps doesn't match that of digital camcorders, which I believe is 29.97fps creating "flicker" in the digitized image. From what I've read in order to remove the "flicker" the frame rates have to be adjusted to match. I have also read that reducing the frame rate to 15fps will also stop the "flicker". In order to test whether or not that is valid I set up my homemade telecine box and while running the projector, pinched the ratchet sprocket between my thumb and forefinger, slowing the projector and the "flicker" disappeared.

So, what I'm hoping is that there is someone here with knowledge of the motors used in Bell and Howell projectors. I see in a previous post to a response about the speed control on the 466A, it was stated that the control is by mechanical means only. But I see from the images in this thread that there is an electrical adjustment knob as well as a mechanical switch. So, I would conclude that while the slow motion is controlled mechanically there is a rheostat that controls the speed.

So, what I guess I would like to ascertain is if anyone knows whether the motor used in the 466A and the 357Z are the same or similar in that they can both be controlled by a rheostat or some other type of electrical means.

If it can't be done electronically, cheaply and reliably, I'll reduce the speed by changing the drive pullies.

Thanks,

JC

Posted by Jim Schrader (Member # 9) on February 12, 2014, 10:07 AM:

I sold this unit last year but did change my B&H 1733 to a cheaper bulb.

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