8mm Forum: Bolex 18-5L Super - No voltage to bulb.

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Posted by Andrew Scales (Member # 2398) on January 08, 2011, 06:29 PM:

I am relatively new to the hobby and new here, so I guess I will jump right in!

I was able to get a 18-5L for free from a retiring teacher who left it behind. I thought that leaving it was silly and there was no reason for it. But after a little investigating I found that the lamp would not turn on. Every thing else on this projector works in more or less decently. So to investigate the problem I inspected the halogen lamp only to find it trouble free. I looked at the connectors and they looked okay. Then I tested the voltage, and there wasn't a completed circuit. I assume that the issue is somewhere in the wire that goes into the box with the controls in it and there is something that has come disconnected. So I decided to come here for help to get this garbage can find back on its feet. I hope that someone here could guide me with the wiring to get it re-connected or fixed. I will post pictures if there is a need but I assume that those who can help already know something about this model of projector.

Thanks in advanced,
Andrew-

[ July 26, 2012, 06:08 PM: Message edited by: Andrew Scales ]

Posted by Andrew Scales (Member # 2398) on January 09, 2011, 10:55 AM:

[Confused]

I have exhausted most of my hope for this...

Posted by Barry Fritz (Member # 1865) on January 09, 2011, 12:40 PM:

To clarify, you used a voltmeter and touched the two connetors that are on the red wires that run to the lamp bracket, and did not get a reading? Was the control knob turned to 18 or 5 when you did this? If that is not what you did, try that. You should get a reading of 12 or therabouts. I have two that work and that is what they read. I've got one that does not work and it reads 13.5.

Posted by Andrew Scales (Member # 2398) on January 09, 2011, 02:35 PM:

Yes, that is exactly what I did.

I tried it again and I am getting 0-.5v now, so I know there is power, but it is getting eaten some were and there is some resistance in the circuit too, about a half an ohm.

Posted by Barry Fritz (Member # 1865) on January 09, 2011, 07:32 PM:

I wish I knew what the problem is you are having, but I am not an electrical guy otherwise I may be able to fix mine also. If you open the back, there is a rectangular black metal cover that covers a terminal where wires attach. I'm not certain what that is, but may be a voltage regulator. You might check there and see if anything appears out of order. Run some voltage checks at the terminals. I hope you solve the problem as you have a very nice projector and the price was right.

Posted by Andrew Scales (Member # 2398) on January 09, 2011, 09:22 PM:

Checked the transformer, and I found my 12v in there! [Smile]

So I am assuming it is somthing in the switch assembly that is acting up, I took that off but I cant seem to get it out all the way because the wires are holding on to it. Is there any way to get that all the way off so I can check the electronics inside?

EDIT
Used jumpers to test the bulb etc. It is for sure the right terminals. I may just add jumpers to get it working until I can get the switch fixed up all the way (if I can)

Thanks

[ January 10, 2011, 11:33 AM: Message edited by: Andrew Scales ]

Posted by Barry Fritz (Member # 1865) on January 10, 2011, 11:50 AM:

I know what you mean about the switch assembly. Comes up a very short way before wires stop it. I suppose you could direct connect, but then the lamp would be on all the time unless you unplug it.

Posted by Andrew Scales (Member # 2398) on January 10, 2011, 08:49 PM:

I am going for the direct connect. The good thing is that it doesn't just stay on, it goes off when in the off/stop position. The downside is it does come on in the "M" mode.

After all it is a working Bolex projector I got for free! so there is a huge plus!

Posted by Barry Fritz (Member # 1865) on January 11, 2011, 08:52 AM:

Well, it seems like you have come up with a workable solution. I don't think it is a major problem that it is on in the "M" position. That is for autoloading and the film is moving through fast enough that it shouldn't burn.

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