8mm Forum: [Super 8 Newbie] Ektachrome 100D and Filters (and some other quick questions ...)

This is topic [Super 8 Newbie] Ektachrome 100D and Filters (and some other quick questions ...) in forum 8mm Forum at 8mm Forum.

To visit this topic, use this URL:
https://8mmforum.film-tech.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=008003

Posted by Patrick Casey (Member # 3590) on March 09, 2013, 05:39 PM:

Hello all!

First post here having by complete chance happened upon a free Canon 310XL and some unused Ektachrome 100D stock last week and completely falling in love with it.

Upon recieving this wonderful little present I proceeded to thoughtlessly started shooting with earnest and with little thought for the finer points of the camera's operation. Upon review, and with about 5ft of the stock left it dawned on me it might be worth casting an eye over the user manual whereupon I found to my horror that Ektachrome is 'daylight-balanced' and it is advised to disengage the filter on the camera, something I had failed to do.

So what I want to know is, how will this affect my processed film? Can I expect any decent results or should I not get my hopes up?

Additionally, I've been reading fairly conflicting reports on the effectiveness/quality of various projector types - are there any particular brands I should avoid if I'm looking to pick one up?

Final question (sorry!), is it worth investing in a Neutral Density filter for extra bright scenarios? (as mentioned in the user manual) Does it really make a lot of difference?

Thanks for any help in advance and I look forward to contributing to this great community!

Posted by Pasquale DAlessio (Member # 2052) on March 09, 2013, 05:46 PM:

PATRICK

WELCOME TO THE FORUM!!!!

PATD

Posted by Pasquale DAlessio (Member # 2052) on March 09, 2013, 05:47 PM:

oops!

Posted by Patrick Casey (Member # 3590) on March 09, 2013, 06:09 PM:

Thanks Pasquale!

Posted by Jake Mayes (Member # 3292) on March 10, 2013, 08:24 PM:

you will have a warm cast to the image, depending on what you were shooting not too bad. 100D has been discontinued, not sure if you know, but it is possible to get many B/W stocks, Fuji velvia 50 colour reversal, and AGFA are soon going to bring out a replacment for 100D.

Was gutted when kodak discontinued that!

Jacob

Posted by Alexander Lechner (Member # 1548) on March 13, 2013, 11:28 AM:

Hello Patrick!
The 100D cartridge will disengage the filter automatically, no need to worry. You are lucky with this film - camera combination as it does expose the right way without any additional setting.
As it is a XL camera you might get some overexposure in very bright conditions. A grey filter is a possibility but you'd have to compensate for the light meter (which is above the lens). You do have a back light compensation there (the red plastic to pull up) but as far as I can remember it compensates by 1.5 stops and you won't find a grey filter with this density.
To be honest, I never had a problem of overexposure so far.
Ofcourse your Eumig 607 is fine for projecting the film.
Have fun with making your own film!

Posted by Maurizio Di Cintio (Member # 144) on March 13, 2013, 12:53 PM:

A very good camera as regards lens max aperture (F1.0) and coating (Spectra Coating); plus it's got one of the widest aperture sector shutter: 220°.
Have fun!

Posted by Patrick Casey (Member # 3590) on March 13, 2013, 02:20 PM:

quote:
Hello Patrick!
The 100D cartridge will disengage the filter automatically, no need to worry. You are lucky with this film - camera combination as it does expose the right way without any additional setting.
As it is a XL camera you might get some overexposure in very bright conditions. A grey filter is a possibility but you'd have to compensate for the light meter (which is above the lens). You do have a back light compensation there (the red plastic to pull up) but as far as I can remember it compensates by 1.5 stops and you won't find a grey filter with this density.
To be honest, I never had a problem of overexposure so far.
Ofcourse your Eumig 607 is fine for projecting the film.
Have fun with making your own film!

Ah! Well that's a relief. Thanks Alex! So, just so I understand, if the stock automatically disengages the filter what is the setting I should have it on? Does it not matter whether or not it is engaged?

quote:
A very good camera as regards lens max aperture (F1.0) and coating (Spectra Coating); plus it's got one of the widest aperture sector shutter: 220°.
Have fun!

Ha! Fantastic! Makes it all the better I got it for nothing!

As an aside, does anyone know if it's worth maybe getting one of those wide angle lenses (C-8 Attachment)? Is it any good?

Posted by Alexander Lechner (Member # 1548) on March 14, 2013, 06:55 AM:

In the past mostly tungsten balanced (colour temperature of light bulbs) films were sold in Super 8. With such films you need an orange filter to get the right colours when you film in sun light (day light). This filter is already built in with most Super 8 cameras. To manually disengage it you need to move the switch on your camera to the bulb symbol.
When you look at your Super 8 cartridge you will find a gap cut into the plastic (notch) at the right top corner; this one tells the camera the sensitivity (ASA) of the film. On tungsten balanced films there was also a notch at the bottom right corner. This told the camera that it is a tungsten balanced film and to keep the filter in place; only for inside shots you'd have to disengage the filter manually on the outside of the camera.
The Ektachrome 100D is a day light balanced film, hence the "D". The cartridge hasn't got the bottom notch so it disengages the internal filter automatically and the outside switch has no function.

Posted by Patrick Casey (Member # 3590) on March 24, 2013, 03:07 PM:

Thanks for the tips, Alex. I'm learning a lot here!

I have a new dilemma now unfortunately! I was out shooting my 100D having a whale of a time when the batteries began to give out. I was near the end of the film anyway so I just kept going till they were flat but on returning home and taking the box out and inspecting the footage counter it appeared to have reset back to zero! I had a look at the cartridge too and it doesn't appear to be displaying the telltale 'exposed' part of the film so now I'm very worried I either may have lost or potentially taping over (although I'm not sure if that's even possible) what I already have. Every time I return the cartridge to the camera it seems the footage counter just sits at 0 so if someone could shed some light on exactly what might be the best course of action I'd be much abliged! Thanks!

Posted by Graham Sinden (Member # 431) on March 24, 2013, 03:29 PM:

Hi Patrick,

Not sure if there is still a problem but every time you take the cartridge out of the camera the footage counter resets to zero and when replacing a cartridge (even a full one) the footage counter will still stay at zero and start again from there if more shooting is done. When you originally stopped shooting did the counter show 50 or near that? On all the cameras ive used usually there is an indication when you've reached the end of the cartridge, either a light, moving paddle stops or a beep. Hope this helps.

Graham S

Posted by Maurizio Di Cintio (Member # 144) on March 24, 2013, 03:40 PM:

Normally the footage counter resets everytime you pull out a cartridge from its compartment.

As for exposing the film: look very closely at the film in the cartridge opening and search for light scratche inbeteween a couple of sproket holes. If there's such a scratch, then chances are the film has not been exposed at all, being stuck at the beginning. Also check the footage counter works by having the camera running empty while depressing a tiny button in the film chamber (shaped like a pin protruding some 1-2 mm), usually placed left of the take up spindle; while pushing it, the footage needle should move. Then it should reset when you release the pin. This is the firsty control to do. Second check the film is not stuck/jammed: try pulling it downward with a finger: if it moves without too much effort, the film is OK.

The ultimate way to assess how much film remains unexposed is this: freeze the cartridge for 1-2 days; then remove it and keep it at room temperature without any foil/protection for a few minutes. Due to humidity, the shape of the spool inside the cartridge should be made apparent by wet gathering outside the cartridge; depending on what side it gathers on, you can determine if the film is entirely inside the take-up half of the cartridge (i.e. film is totally exposed) or is entirely/partly in the side with the film label on (which hosts unexposed film).

Posted by Patrick Casey (Member # 3590) on March 24, 2013, 06:48 PM:

quote:
Hi Patrick,

Not sure if there is still a problem but every time you take the cartridge out of the camera the footage counter resets to zero and when replacing a cartridge (even a full one) the footage counter will still stay at zero and start again from there if more shooting is done. When you originally stopped shooting did the counter show 50 or near that? On all the cameras ive used usually there is an indication when you've reached the end of the cartridge, either a light, moving paddle stops or a beep. Hope this helps.

Graham S

Hi Graham, thanks for the reply. That's a relief, I was sure I'd maybe broken it! The counter was nearly 50 when it died, I must have only had a few seconds left. It didn't really give me any indication it was finished/finishing on my last cartridge (I've got a Canon 310XL) I just kept shooting till the counter reached 50.

quote:
Normally the footage counter resets everytime you pull out a cartridge from its compartment.

As for exposing the film: look very closely at the film in the cartridge opening and search for light scratche inbeteween a couple of sproket holes. If there's such a scratch, then chances are the film has not been exposed at all, being stuck at the beginning. Also check the footage counter works by having the camera running empty while depressing a tiny button in the film chamber (shaped like a pin protruding some 1-2 mm), usually placed left of the take up spindle; while pushing it, the footage needle should move. Then it should reset when you release the pin. This is the firsty control to do. Second check the film is not stuck/jammed: try pulling it downward with a finger: if it moves without too much effort, the film is OK.

The ultimate way to assess how much film remains unexposed is this: freeze the cartridge for 1-2 days; then remove it and keep it at room temperature without any foil/protection for a few minutes. Due to humidity, the shape of the spool inside the cartridge should be made apparent by wet gathering outside the cartridge; depending on what side it gathers on, you can determine if the film is entirely inside the take-up half of the cartridge (i.e. film is totally exposed) or is entirely/partly in the side with the film label on (which hosts unexposed film).

Some very handy tips in here, Maurizio, thanks for taking the time to explain all that. I'm pretty sure the footage counter works as with the last cartridge I shot it seemed to work perfectly and when it told me I'd hit 50ft the cartridge had the little 'exposed' lettering etched into the film in the cartridge opening. I couldn't quite find that little button you were talking about on my camera, a Canon 310XL, but I'll keep looking. The film also moves freely when I push it with my finger so I think that's okay too.

I'm tempted to try your last tip purely because it sounds like a fun little experiment. Thanks again! I'll let you know how it goes.

UBB.classic^TM 6.3.1.2