8mm Forum: Splicers? Tape? Cement? Pros? Cons?

This is topic Splicers? Tape? Cement? Pros? Cons? in forum 8mm Forum at 8mm Forum.

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Posted by Lee Bombard (Member # 3740) on June 07, 2013, 01:47 PM:

I'm curious what this forums highly informed members think about splicers?
I'll have my projector in a few days and thought it'd be a good idea to have a good splicer ready at hand before I start running any film...

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Lee

Posted by Vidar Olavesen (Member # 3354) on June 07, 2013, 01:52 PM:

I learned early, tape is safer. If you have polyester print, it won't splice with cement. Tape works for all it seems.

I do like the Super 8 part of the Kodak Splicer, but not the 16mm part of it. The Super 8 is doing a straight cut, so you lose the least frames. The 16mm and Regular 8 on it is doing a half curve (I am not too good with the english language, but that's the closest I could think of)

I have both cement and tape, but use the tapes 99% of the time

Posted by Lee Bombard (Member # 3740) on June 07, 2013, 03:06 PM:

Thanks Vidar. Would you recommend the Kodak tape splicer for Super 8? Are there various Kodak tape splicers?

Posted by Maurizio Di Cintio (Member # 144) on June 08, 2013, 08:48 AM:

I use tape to assemble commercial prints prior to screening, so that I can disassemble all the reels and put them back onto their spools without losong a single frame; and I use cement splicers for my own home-produced films: I like the idea that film, in this way, sort of tends to be a single piece of film. My splicer of choice is a bevel edge one, namely the Hahnel Kollmatic: I use this brand to scrape the film ends prior to cementing, but I then use a Bolex cement splicer to hold the termonals in place and proceed with the edit: it's more precise.

Posted by Vidar Olavesen (Member # 3354) on June 08, 2013, 08:57 AM:

Urbanski Films have this Kodak splicer new and I am happy to have bought it. I bought three on eBay, all with their problems. The new one is really good though. Problem with the first three was one had a broken pin (another one brole a little later), the two others were not firm in the springs that presses the film outwards to keep it in place. It's not too bad, can be used, but the new one is keeping the film where it's suppose to be.

http://moviecraft.tripod.com/supplies.html

I checked now, seems he is out of new ones :-( I was considering getting one more. You could ask him if the springs are firm before ordering though?

Good luck and YES, I would recommend it for Super 8. I use it for 16mm also, but losing unnecessary frames isn't optimal

Posted by Richard Bock (Member # 1926) on June 08, 2013, 09:08 AM:

I like cement for 16mm and 8mm. much cheaper and efficient. I also like the handmade nature of it. Problem with cement is that you lose a frame. For the hobby of small formats it's ideal for me. For Super 8 I use a Ciro tape splice.

Posted by Vidar Olavesen (Member # 3354) on June 08, 2013, 09:36 AM:

I've bought several old, used 16mm prints with cement splices ... They mostly tend to break off when rewinding ... Is this just due to bad splicing or will the cement give way after many years? This is also one of the reasons I like tape (if proper tape is used, gotten loads of movies with stretched normal tape, hate that)

Posted by Richard Bock (Member # 1926) on June 08, 2013, 10:35 AM:

Something really old will break especially under the strain of tight rewind . tape splices can also yellow and go brittle with age. for me the big plus is that my splices should last 20 years, and that's about my range. If one doesn't do a cement splice well it can break. Important to get ALL the emulsion off on the target frame.

Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on June 08, 2013, 12:13 PM:

I do the same as Richard in having both cement and tape splicers. Cement with acetate film is more economical than tape. However sometimes tape works better especially to repair one or two broken sprocket holes.

Here are a couple splicing tutorials I made:

Kodak Universal Splicer
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7svDF_Gc8pk

3-Way Cement Splicer
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7s_kB2_C668

PM me...I have one of each to sell.

Janice

Posted by Lee Bombard (Member # 3740) on June 08, 2013, 12:15 PM:

Thanks all for this great information.
I'll probably go with a tape splicer. Are they pretty much all alike or are there advantages and disadvantages to different brands?

Posted by Richard Bock (Member # 1926) on June 08, 2013, 01:30 PM:

That's right Janice, tape is better for torn sprockets. I have that splicer you have on your cool tutorials or one that looks just like it. A cool li'l splicer.

Posted by Luigi Castellitto (Member # 3759) on June 08, 2013, 02:09 PM:

Hello to all forums, i'm an italian fan! [Smile]

So... you recommended a universal splicer useful for both 8mm for 9.5mm or is it better to take them separate?

Posted by Vidar Olavesen (Member # 3354) on June 08, 2013, 02:32 PM:

I am happy with my Kodak Splicer for use on Regular, Super 8 and 16mm. No 9.5 though. Cause no problem for me at least with all in one.

Posted by Luigi Castellitto (Member # 3759) on June 08, 2013, 04:09 PM:

I've seen, even on this forum, that there would be Marguet Tri-film, for 8, 9.5, 16mm, but I did not understand if it is to glue or tape, and glue that you should buy.

Posted by Vidar Olavesen (Member # 3354) on June 08, 2013, 04:14 PM:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kevp/3394649043/

Look very cement to me, if this is the one you refer to

Posted by Luigi Castellitto (Member # 3759) on June 08, 2013, 05:51 PM:

Yes, it is a cement: http://www.cinematheque-normandie.fr/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/DSC0084.jpg
Internet speak well to him (although I would have preferred to tape), you may go.
Can anyone tell me where to buy the cement for this machine?

Posted by Vidar Olavesen (Member # 3354) on June 08, 2013, 06:42 PM:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HAMA-CINE-FILM-CEMENT-ACETATE-GLUE-WET-SPLICING-PRO-NEW-/200637658467?pt=UK_Photography_DarkroomSupplies_SM&hash=item2eb6efb563

Should work I believe?

Posted by Luigi Castellitto (Member # 3759) on June 08, 2013, 07:23 PM:

Definitely! [Smile]

We can understand, perhaps with someone who is in possession, if this splicer, as well as paste, also makes the cutting operation?

Posted by Maurizio Di Cintio (Member # 144) on June 09, 2013, 03:53 AM:

ALL splicers prepare the film ends to splicing: regardless their being wet or tape splicers, the film ends are trimmed and, in the case of wet ones, they are scraped in order to make matt the area which is to be spliced.

The only exception is the Hamann "Filmspalter" which is only a cutter: it cuts both film ends creating a bevel edge which makes it possible to overlap the two pieces of film to join without encrease the total thickness. Then you need a regular wet splicer of the Hamann splicer to complete the operation.

Posted by Luigi Castellitto (Member # 3759) on June 09, 2013, 07:58 AM:

Hi Maurizio,
Thank you for explanation!

Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on June 09, 2013, 11:28 AM:

My favorite Super 8 splicer was the Wurker. Is tape even available for that anymore?

Posted by Luigi Castellitto (Member # 3759) on June 09, 2013, 12:29 PM:

Hi Brad,
particularly as a method and the design, I have to do a search if there is also 8mm.

Posted by Adrian Winchester (Member # 248) on June 10, 2013, 08:17 PM:

I'm sure Wurker tape is still available - CHC generally have it. I use a Wurker for S8 and I think you can't beat it. I use proper Wurker splices for stereo films or anywhere the splice could show on screen, but I also have some cheap 'wrap around' type splices that I use if I'm (e.g.) splicing on some leader.

Posted by Luigi Castellitto (Member # 3759) on June 11, 2013, 07:22 AM:

If it were for regular 8mm or 9,5mm, or together, would be interesting.

Posted by Robert Crewdson (Member # 3790) on June 26, 2013, 07:34 AM:

I have never had much success with wet splicing, I don't know what I am doing wrong. I have an Agfa Super 8 tape splicer, and when I got into 16mm I bought a Kodak Presstape splicer off Ebay. Don't like the fact that the cut is curved as someone else mentioned. I haven't found the tapes as good as the Kodak originals. I also have a lovely boxed Premier splicer from 1954. Back to super 8; I used to wonder if over time the tape would discolour or lose it adhesive qualities, but I have never had any problems.

Posted by Lee Mannering (Member # 728) on June 26, 2013, 07:40 AM:

Super 8 Wurker tape splicer using Wurker 2 frame patches are near invisible in projection. They also make stereo audio splicing possible and over the years I found to be excellento.

Standard 8 (Regular 8) also use Wurker

16mm I used CIR which is great

In the old days Agfa cement seemed to hold best for those still using chemical joins.

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