8mm Forum: Eumig S 802D Motor Fault Fix Possibly cine film transfer 8mm super 8 Repair

This is topic Eumig S 802D Motor Fault Fix Possibly cine film transfer 8mm super 8 Repair in forum 8mm Forum at 8mm Forum.

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Posted by Carl Pattison (Member # 3861) on August 06, 2013, 03:50 PM:

Hi Guys Im New Here, great info in all sections, very interesting.
been messing with super 8 & standard 8 for a while now
built a very basic telecine out of junk i had laying around,
then found a jessops TC Box.
But i have a Eumig S 802D with a speed problem or no motion at all.
so im in I.T. Do a lot of laser printer repairs, especially paper jams, we use platenclene to repair the rubber to extend life,
so i thought i would test it on my Eumig today with these results, Please see video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hqyZqPN-UTo

had great results but i have another problem, gate jumping Or bouncing.
any advice would be great, please feel free to look at my other cine videos on my youtube channel

Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on August 06, 2013, 05:50 PM:

I used the sand paper method on my 810D which worked very well....but I too have been having an issue with the jumping frames and hope someone here has some input on this problem.

Posted by Zechariah Sporre (Member # 2358) on August 06, 2013, 08:24 PM:

I have found the dual 8mm Eumig projectors a little more prone to the jumping/shaky screen. My theory is, that it is because they only have one claw that moves it through the gate (instead of 2 like most projectors). I have found that in almost all cases if I lubricate the film it runs through just fine (unless the film itself is damaged).

Posted by Maurice Leakey (Member # 916) on August 08, 2013, 10:26 AM:

Carl
Just watched your video. Here's a little tip. Only change the speed when the projector is not in a projecting mode, i.e., not when the little ball is engaged with either of the two black plattens.

It is OK to change speed whist the motor is running as the motor itself always runs at the one speed.

Posted by Maurizio Di Cintio (Member # 144) on August 08, 2013, 10:46 AM:

Is it my impression or the lower sprocket film guide is open??? This guide, which is not spring activated, must be closed (i.e. next to the sprocket itself) at all times during operation: you only have to open it when changing sprockets. Otherwise the lower loop of film will become too narrow, which will result in unsteady/jumpy pictures on screen!!!

Posted by Pasquale DAlessio (Member # 2052) on August 08, 2013, 11:00 AM:

Carl

WELCOME TO THE FORUM!!!! [Big Grin]

PatD

Posted by John Capazzo (Member # 157) on August 08, 2013, 05:42 PM:

Sanding the rubber discs is not the answer to any problem on any Eumig. In the long run, it will create more problems such as the removal of rubber. Remove rubber even with fine paper and you're doing exactly what shouldn't be done: removal. When the rubber is almost gone, the spindle won't rub against anything but metal. You want more rubber; not less. If any of the 800 series is running slowly or came to a halt, remove the rear cover then re plug the cord and as the motor area is facing you, put a screw driver under the motor and lift (the left would be FWD) This will force the splindle to hit the rubber wheel which makes it go at correct 24 or 18. The motor is on a rocker and meant to rock left to right when in FWD and RWD. As far as jumping, could be a few things. Improper threading; chewed up film (process of elimination first); dried 8mm film (usually standard 8mm silent agfa tends to dry up faster) or claw is out of alignment. I've had several almost dead 802, 807 and 810 and the methods I've stated always worked. Hope this helps. Let us know.

Posted by Rob Young. (Member # 131) on August 08, 2013, 06:59 PM:

But isn't the real problem that the rubber discs harden, thus slip against the metal bearing?

Therefore solutions such as sanding, etc...

John, when you say use a screw driver to lift the motor...can you elaborate? Most intriguing! [Smile]

Posted by Maurizio Di Cintio (Member # 144) on August 09, 2013, 05:37 AM:

Actually I'm intrigued too. What do you accomplish by so doing?
In fact using sand paper on these discs (and rubbing veeery gently!) is not a permanent fix buit a temporary one: that's because these discs start to slip when they are hardened/worn out: so the only really effective fix is to replace them. But given the current situations, sanding may be a quick, cheap and effective option: after, this allows to keep using the machine as it is prior to do something which eventually is due anyway: replacement. But again, what do you accomplish by lifting the motor with a screwdriver? Thanks.

Posted by Carl Pattison (Member # 3861) on August 09, 2013, 02:34 PM:

thanks for all the advice, i dont think you should shove a screwdriver in(health & safety & all that) maybe a wooden spoon handle or somthing plastic will put pressure on the left or right.
making the ball motor contact better, the films i have tested in it
are all great condition, all parts well lubed, i wouldnt advice sandpaper ether, the platenclene is designed to make rubber swell a little whitch has worked, i use it daily on laser printer pickup rollers. also has anyone looked at this little device from france for cine capture, i have had a go at making one & getting close but has anyone here made one.
http://www.easy-transfert.com/product.php?id_product=21

Posted by John Yapp (Member # 2873) on August 09, 2013, 04:00 PM:

Carl, if you currently have a camcorder capable of at least 12x optical zoom, you would be better buying a 2" 16mm projector lens off ebay, such as this one, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-ELMO-PROJECTOR-LENS-PROMINAR-No-74486-F-1-5-F-50mm-COVER-MADE-IN-JAPAN-/171073265041?pt=UK_Photography_VintagePhotography_VintagePhotoAccessories& hash=item27d4c2dd91 and replacing the Eumig's lens with it for telecine through the gate. You then need a diffuser, (Printer paper will do at a push, and a low wattage bulb. (I use a 20w.) total cost would be around £15-25, and excellent transfers can be made in this way.
To be honest, the example video shown on the french site doesn't look that impressive unless you go for the 3ccd option.

Posted by Dominique De Bast (Member # 3798) on September 06, 2013, 04:05 PM:

Johne, I tried your method on a Mark S 810 D HQS. It works only the time you're lifting the motor. So, it is good to check but for a few seconds it is useless to fix the projector.

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