8mm Forum: Eumig S802D Question

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Posted by Simon McConway (Member # 219) on January 05, 2014, 09:37 AM:

Basically, I think I may have mixed up the gates for St8/Sup 8, as the film becomes unsteady really easily in this machine, so can I just check I have this correct...for Super 8, the gate clipped to the lens end of the chasis has an orange label, the other side is all black but marked with an S. For Std 8, the part on the lens end of the chassis is has an S with a background of silver, but the other part is simply black, unmarked.
I can't imagine I have this wrong, but thought I'd check. I have to keep momentarily hitting the thread lever (under the lens) to restore steadiness.

Posted by John Yapp (Member # 2873) on January 05, 2014, 10:13 AM:

another easy way to tell is that the standard 8 gate will have a lip at the bottom to take the film further from the sound head to achieve 54 frames separation,

Posted by Martin Jones (Member # 1163) on January 05, 2014, 10:29 AM:

Gates: Part nearest the lamp. Identified by the fact that they have slots for the claw and two locating pins on the lamp side. Regular (Standard) 8 has a forward facing "Chute" at the bottom of the moulding to direct film into the external film path, and has a SMALLER aperture than the Super 8 one.The Super 8 one is identified with an "S" on the outer face
Pressure plates: Part nearest the lens. Om my 810D the Regular (Standard ) 8 one has a smaller aperture than the Super 8 one.
The Super 8 one is identified with an "S" on the outer face.

In my experience, the "S" is not always present because it is a stick on label and easily lost! Once identified, mark both gates and pressure plates with "S" or "R" to avoid future doubt.

With these machines, ALWAYS press the threading lever down to close the external film channel whilst threading, whether using Super or Regular 8 film. And, of course, NEVER remove of replace gate components if the dot on the inching knob is not at the top!

Posted by Maurice Leakey (Member # 916) on January 05, 2014, 10:59 AM:

To avoid damage to the claw when changing gates always ensure that the dot on the rear inching knob is set to twelve o'clock as in this position the claw is withdrawn.
Also, ensure that the lens is fully forward when changing the gates.

Posted by Simon McConway (Member # 219) on January 05, 2014, 11:02 AM:

Thank you for the details everyone. I think I have the gate correct. However, I will double-check. What could be causing the picture to turn to "rolling frames" i.e. loss of loop?

Posted by Maurice Leakey (Member # 916) on January 05, 2014, 11:05 AM:

Loss of loop could indicate a damaged claw. Does this happen with all your films, both standard and super?

Posted by Simon McConway (Member # 219) on January 05, 2014, 11:09 AM:

Claw is okay...I can project perfectly until a splice goes through...or once I have tapped the threading key to restore the image to normal, straight after threading.

Posted by Ken Finch (Member # 2768) on January 05, 2014, 11:14 AM:

Hi Simon, I would just like to confirm that the information provided by Martin is 100% for the Eumig model he mentioned as I also have an 810d. I also have a Bolex super 8 machine which is identical, but not dual gauge. It is very important that when loading the machine you hold that loop forming lever down until the film leader appears from that "chute " at the rear. Also equaly important is the information about lining up the dots on the knob on the rear of the projector when removing the gate and pressure pad. If you do not do this , you risk damaging or breaking off the claw pins. I am assumin your model is the same design as ours of course, as I am not a Eumig expert and designs did vary over the years. Incidentally, I have also discovered that my Bauer and Agfa LS projectors have many idetical parts. Ken Finch. [Smile]

Posted by Maurice Leakey (Member # 916) on January 05, 2014, 11:20 AM:

Sounds like gate pressure problem. Take out gates and double, nay, triple check you have a correct pair.

Martin has explained that the standard 8 gate, known as the Film Guide has a curved lip at its bottom to send the film into a larger loop. Its mate, called the Film Pressure Plate has a smaller picture rectangle, i.e. size of the standard 8 frame.

The Super 8 Film Guide has no extending lip, and its mate, the Film Pressure Pad has a larger aperture to match that of the Super 8 frame.

Posted by Lee Mannering (Member # 728) on January 05, 2014, 11:45 AM:

SI You need to contact the new Mr Eumig. Phil Sheard helped me so much recently I have daubed him the new Mr Eumig aka the Man.
Mind you sometimes the little top spocket can become loose so might be worth checking the allen key lock on it. Todays top tip.

Posted by Martin Jones (Member # 1163) on January 05, 2014, 01:49 PM:

It is worth remembering that the two front (Pressure) plates are actually IDENTICAL except for the fact that the apertures are provided by "foil" inserts into a larger aperture. These foils can become loose: it is then better to remove them instead of trying to refix them. This will not affect projection in any way as it is the rear plate which defines the projected frame area.

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