8mm Forum: Eumig 810 issue

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Posted by Gary Huggins (Member # 3948) on March 15, 2014, 03:40 PM:

I'm getting a blurred, flickery image with the Standard-8 guide... as if the aperture plate were not installed - but it is.

The guide is installed correctly, the correct gears are in place... I can't understand what's make the image so flickery and fluid.

Any ideas?

Posted by Maurice Leakey (Member # 916) on March 15, 2014, 03:54 PM:

Gary
If the projector is an 810 then it is only for Super 8.
The letter "D" after the number will indicate that it is for use with both Super 8 and Standard (Regular) 8.
If you are not sure, the "D" model will have a sliding switch near the sound head to select the sound track from either side.

Posted by Gary Huggins (Member # 3948) on March 15, 2014, 04:20 PM:

It's D - I have it set to standard, both standard gears installed and the standard gates in place.

Posted by Vidar Olavesen (Member # 3354) on March 15, 2014, 04:30 PM:

Is it running at a good enough speed? My new 810D was flickering too, the shutter wasn't moving fast enough.

Posted by Gary Huggins (Member # 3948) on March 15, 2014, 04:42 PM:

Seems to be, I've cleaned both the rubber pads... it's not the flicker you get when the projection speed is off, it's more a fluid, fluttery look - I can only compare it to the look of film running through an Elmo 16-CL without the gate installed.

Posted by Gary Huggins (Member # 3948) on March 16, 2014, 03:53 AM:

Same thing with Super-8... it's as if the shutter mechanism on the film guide is out of synch with the blade.

Any Eumig owners who have encountered this before?

Posted by Martin Jones (Member # 1163) on March 16, 2014, 04:45 AM:

It's easy to check for shutter sync on these machines.....
With the cover removed on the operating side and with lens, gate aperture plate and pressure plate removed, both the shutter and claw pin are fully visible.
Turn the inching knob anticlockwise and observe the claw movement. At the point at which the claw becomes fully forward at the top of its stroke the shutter blade should completely cover the light path. Continue to turn until the claw just withdraws at the bottom of its stroke. The same shutter blade should still be covering the light path.
Further rotation should move the blade out of the path and the other two blades will pass through the path until the first blade is back in position before the next claw pulldown.

Posted by Maurizio Di Cintio (Member # 144) on March 16, 2014, 05:46 AM:

It sounds like the claw is not engaging the sprockets properly: in this case the projector will lose the bottom loop and the intermittent movement film must have whe in front of the aperture plate, will be lost to a continous movement. Reasons for this may be:

a) faulty sprocket hole(s): perhaps a torn/faulty splice: this is usually fixed by depressing the loop reformer lever (the same you use during auto-threading, right below the lens) once or twice.

b) misaligned side guides on the very aperture plate: their position is REALLY crucial and critical for the claw pin to engage the sprockets, becaue only a tiny fraction of sprocket areas may be considered common between the two formats (not by chance is the claw pin so slim and 'lonely' on these machines...)

c) aperture plate and pressure shoe not perfectly assembled, perhaps due to some element come apart, thus increasing tolerances (which is extremely unlikely but you should never assume in this hobby...)

d) broken claw pin, most likely due to opening the gate with the claw itself not fully retracted (white dot on inching knob MUST be upwards!!!)

Frankly I cannot think of any more reasons, but I do hope I'm wrong especially on point "d". Best of luck!!

Posted by Gary Huggins (Member # 3948) on March 16, 2014, 02:50 PM:

Thanks Maurizio. I believe it's the claw - everything that can be wrong with this projector is wrong with this projector.

Another dud! Back it goes.

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