8mm Forum: RS3000 conversion to digital

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Posted by John Kane (Member # 5153) on December 09, 2015, 03:55 AM:

During the dark winter nights I've finally decided to convert my stack of tapes (home movies) to digital so that I can edit them using Corel's VideoStudio software and need peoples help. My apologies if my technical terms are wrong.

I have a Eumig RS3000 which was up in my loft for 30 odd years but I was surprised to find that it still worked with only a lamp replacement required and a clean of the lens and audio pickup.

I have one physical issue, in that after 10 mins or so the lamp cuts out and I have to reset it (pressing the red button), rewind the tape a bit and edit the digital copy to get a "clean" final edit. I'm leaving the side cover off and using a hair dryer to keep things cool but I'm guessing that someone out there will know a more elegant solution. It's not pretty but it works.

The more puzzling thing is getting the tapes converted. I'm using a Panasonic SD90 video camera to record the video and play around with the 18-24 speed dial until I reduce the flicker to a minimum. The silent ones are fine but I'm having problems with the audio ones.

To eliminate machine noise I use a 5Din-Jack plug connection into the "Line in" port on a laptop and create an MP3 audio file via Audacity which I then try and sync with VideoStudio but I'm getting problems matching the video and audio, which I'm guessing is because the video and audio are being recorded at different speeds??

So my latest attempt is to take the jack plug and put it into the "Mic" slot in the videocamera and I'm using audio filters in Videostudio to reduce hum and other noises but that impacts the quality of the sound but at least they are both in sync.

I wouldn't be that fussed as a lot of the stuff is holiday videos so sound quality isn't important but I have a fair bit of my children when they were small and I'd love to get decent sound for those ones.

Of course given that the tapes haven't been used for 30 odd years it could be that the magnetic strip on the tapes has been compromised and I'll never get a decent soundtrack but I'd appreciate any help that people can give me.

Of course, getting the audio head properly cleaned in the RS3000 might solve it but there doesn't appear to be much in the way of access and I don't want to break things and then have nothing at all.

I'd also like to apologise for the length of this post but I wanted to get as much info to you as possible.

Posted by Edwin van Eck (Member # 4690) on December 09, 2015, 04:07 AM:

For reducing the flickering of the image, you need to set the speed to 16,66 frames/second (asuming your camera films with 25 of 50 frames/second). This is not possible by default on this projector. However you can modify this projector, so you can reduce the speed, so that you can get it to 16,66 frames/second. See:

http://www.van-eck.net/itable.php?lang=en&size=0&cat=film&merk=57&type=RS3000

Posted by Thijs de Kort (Member # 4897) on December 09, 2015, 04:30 AM:

Hey John,
The red button you are talking about is the thermostat. It protects your films from being damaged due to excessive heat exposure. There are a few ways this problem could be resolved. The thing i would check first is if the belts are ok, since if the ventilator belt is either to pulled then your projector isnt cooled.
If the belt is fine my suggestion is to check the switch itself, it could either be rusted or in some other way damaged. Cleaning it could prove useful.
Lastly the heatshield on the inside of the lampcover might be at fault, i dont think that it is the problem here though since you are running without the lamphouse attached.
/Thijs.

Posted by Lee Mannering (Member # 728) on December 09, 2015, 04:35 AM:

Hello John. Its a great many years since I last used a Eumig 3000 but you should be able to get to the sound head to clean it by removing the gold side cover which releases by 1 black screw.
The sound head plastic pressure pads can be got at by turning the locking bolt underneath and one these are removed you can see the sound head to clean with suitable head cleaner on a cotton bud.

If you are going to be filming off of the front screen you might want to change the lamp to a 12 volt 50watt Dichroic lamp which are available, this will help reduce the amount of hot spot a little.

Good luck.

Posted by John Kane (Member # 5153) on December 09, 2015, 08:51 AM:

Lee, can you give me more details about cleaning the sound head.

If I press the square red button there is some white(ish), plastic moulded "stuff" which partly drops away but I can't see any locking bolt or anything that looks like it needs cleaning.

The sound capstan key to the left has a single screw which if I undo it gives me access to something and at the end of the cast metal "thing" there is some shiny metal hidden in a moulding which I'd assumed was the sound head but as you can guess by my rubbish description I'm not sure what is what. My concern is taking something out and then not being able to replace it.

I'm guessing that the red, square button is what I should be focussing on but need some advice.

Posted by John Kane (Member # 5153) on December 12, 2015, 09:58 AM:

Thijs

Thanks for helping out with this and you were right, the fan belt had gone. It's now replaced, the side cover is back on and all it working well.

Many thanks

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