8mm Forum: LED Bulb Conversion

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Posted by Will Trenfield (Member # 5321) on July 10, 2017, 07:10 PM:

I found this on the web

http://www.instructables.com/id/Eumig-Mark-502D-LED-Bulb-Upgrade/

The 3D bit didn't work for me and the position of the electrical layout shown is impractical but it could be positioned under the lamp cover. I tried it out with a 12 volt 5 watt LED and it worked. Then I tried connecting a 12 volt, 50 watt halogen bulb to the 8 volt, 50 watt supply and that worked as well. You could project at reduced or full power on those Eumigs so that makes sense. The only problem is as to how to mount the bulb in the projector.

Posted by Alan Gouger (Member # 31) on July 10, 2017, 08:36 PM:

I would prefer a color temp closer to daylight which is doable with LED. No mention of light output 50 watts just does not seam bright enough but you never know. Regardless I give this a thumbs up for its innovation. Thanks for sharing.

Posted by Maurice Leakey (Member # 916) on July 11, 2017, 02:39 AM:

It is regrettable that the cost of the CXL 8volt 50watt lamp (A1/17) for the Eumig 502D probably costs more than the value of the projector!
Any conversions for a cheaper lamp replacement would be an idea, but few people have a 3D printer. And any professional assistance might be cost prohibitive.
A more modern replacement projector is probably the best way to go forward.

Posted by Will Trenfield (Member # 5321) on July 11, 2017, 09:29 AM:

Quite. I know of an eBay seller who buys projectors at car boot sales for a couple of pounds just to salvage those bulbs.

Posted by Will Trenfield (Member # 5321) on July 11, 2017, 06:23 PM:

The cheapest CXL (A1/17) 8v 50w bulb I could find was £25.79 ($33). The originals had a life of 25 hours or so, I've read, with luck and a bit of TLC. There are some being produced in China, apparently, and exported here. As Maurice posted, the bulb can cost more than the projector, which is sad given the quality of makes such as Eumig and Sankyo.

Posted by Paul Adsett (Member # 25) on July 11, 2017, 08:27 PM:

And let's not forget that the superb Bolex 18-5 projectors also use the 8v 50 w CXL/CXR lamp.

Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on July 11, 2017, 09:56 PM:

I still think retrofitting a QLV-1 lamp holder and socket and using an EFM (50w) or EFN (75w) halogen bulb is the simplest and least expensive DIY conversion for replacing the old spaceman CXL/CXR bulb. I've done this with my Bolex 18-5L (Super 8) and I'm now converting my Bolex 18-5 (Std. 8) projector.

Posted by Will Trenfield (Member # 5321) on July 12, 2017, 05:44 PM:

If the QLV-1 holder fits, then I agree that it's an excellent solution. The trouble is that they aren't sold in the UK as they are rated at 125v whereas our mains electricity voltage is far higher than that. You can buy them on eBay from the USA but the shipping cost makes them very expensive, particularly if they don't fit your projector! I'd be hoping to convert an Eumig 501 and a Sankyo Dualux 1000 so it would be helpful to know if anyone has converted either of these machines using a QLV-1.

Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on July 12, 2017, 06:08 PM:

Will...If you look at my photo you will see that one of the QLV-1 holders has the socket removed. In some projectors I have bought a different socket and just used the QLV-1 as a holder.

As far as shipping...They aren't very heavy so shipping shouldn't be too high. I seem to always find a good deal $9-$10 on Ebay.

Let me see if the QLV-1 will fit in the Sankyo 1000. I have a junker here and I'll let you know.

Posted by Brian Fretwell (Member # 4302) on July 12, 2017, 07:18 PM:

I couldn't see the purpose of the bridge rectifier in the linked page. The LEDs I have used to replace 12v halogens in other projects have worked perfectly without one. If it was needed then you would have to ensure the LED was plugged in the right way round or it wouldn't light at all, if it does work both ways the rectifier isn't needed.

Posted by Will Trenfield (Member # 5321) on July 12, 2017, 07:36 PM:

I think that some LEDs work on DC but not on AC, Brian, hence the need for a rectifier. I run a 5W LED from a transformer as a desktop light ( mounted in an used beer can) and it's fine. Connecting other LEDs led to a quick flash of light and that was it.

Posted by Brian Fretwell (Member # 4302) on July 13, 2017, 05:42 AM:

I think most available now have the bridge rectifier built in and earlier ones didn't. The only trouble I have had is with low power ones not drawing enough current for an electronic transformer to function properly, it was a 1.9w lamp with many LEDs and only a couple lit, with or without a separate rectifier. A 4.8w one works perfectly in the same set up without.

Posted by Will Trenfield (Member # 5321) on July 13, 2017, 06:26 PM:

Good point, Brian. There's a bewildering number of LEDs out there and it's not always clear if they will work with AC. As Janice said, the halogen bulb is an inexpensive replacement.

Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on July 13, 2017, 07:35 PM:

Hi Will...Here is my initial findings on fitting the QLV-1 Holder into a Sankyo 1000. This is by no means a how-to tutorial. It's only a quick and dirty suggestion of what could be done.

I just scotch taped the pieces into my junker Sankyo 1000 that had all the lamp elements previously gutted. You may or may not have to take everything out.

The QLV-1 holder fits into the lamp cavity length-wise nicely...but not the width. It is slightly too wide for the front cover to close. A metal heat shield hits the vertical bar of the holder when closing.However keep reading...It still might work [Smile]

I removed the socket that came with the holder. If you are not in the US you would be removing it anyway. Just choose a socket that won't extend too far. The cover needs to fit into that vertical slot on the left.

To get the front cover to close all the way...the only solution I can think of would be to cut out a portion of the heat shield. Since the cover is metal...it should withstand a lot of heat.

In the photo above you can see there are 2 screw holes in the case just below the QLV-1. One idea I had was to use those holes to attach a base that the QLV-1 could be screwed onto. This would raise it up into position. As an example I cut and bent a small piece of sheetmetal. Holes would be drilled into the sheet metal and use screws to attach.

This may seem like a lot of work...and certainly not for everyone ...but that other LED build didn't look like a walk in the park either. If I had a working Sankyo 1000...I think I would give this conversion a try.

[ July 13, 2017, 11:09 PM: Message edited by: Janice Glesser ]

Posted by Will Trenfield (Member # 5321) on July 14, 2017, 03:43 AM:

Thank you for going to the trouble of seeing if it was possible, Janice. "Q" would have been proud of you! That's a big help.

Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on July 14, 2017, 12:22 PM:

I'm sure you can come up with some modifications of your own. Perhaps small angle brackets to create the shelf to mount the QLV-1. This would make it much stronger. Let us know if you go forward with this mod.

Posted by Will Trenfield (Member # 5321) on July 21, 2017, 07:09 PM:

Hi, Janice. I played around with my number 2 Sankyo Dualux 1000 and what you suggest looks to be possible. The two screw holes you mentioned are used to mount the socket base plate so that could remain in place. An alternative bulb to the CXR/CXL or A1/17 (UK) was the rare A1/163. Here's a link to one fitted to a Sankyo 1000 on eBay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/382168318868?ul_noapp=true

At last, I've managed to acquire a Sankyo Dualux 2000H after 2 years of being outbid on eBay or seeing others offered at well over my price range so the bulb conversion will be on the back burner for now as I play with my new toy. Looking good so far!

Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on July 26, 2017, 01:31 PM:

Will...I think getting a 2000H was a good choice. It's a newer better model of the Dualux 1000 with the halogen bulb upgrade.

At least this thread will give someone a place to start if they want to convert their Sankyo 1000. The 1000 when running well is still a great projector. The 1000H model is difficult to find... so a bulb upgrade would be the perfect solution to increasing bulb availability and lowering cost.

[ July 26, 2017, 02:33 PM: Message edited by: Janice Glesser ]

Posted by Will Trenfield (Member # 5321) on July 26, 2017, 05:37 PM:

Yes, Janice, and I'm impressed by the quality and performance. I can see why you and others speak highly of it. I'll put a thread up later about my purchase. It cost about the same as a new CXL (A1/17) lamp disregarding carriage cost. I'm not giving up on the Sankyo 1000 LED conversion potential though as the supply of the original lamps is likely to dry up.

Posted by Phil Murat (Member # 5148) on July 27, 2017, 12:53 AM:

For Information,

Cheap & Powerfull : from 20w to 50W FLOODLIGHT POWER LED !!!

(Light Reflector/Lens assembly sold seperately)

[URL=https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1Set-NEW-Design-20W-30W-50W-COB-Integrated-Chip-lamp-Beads-Power-Driver-For-DIY-High/32644650275.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.10.qJzwdc&ws_ab_tes t=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10152_10065_10151_10068_10084_10308_10083_10305_10080_10304_10307_10082_10306_10081_10177_10110_10137_10111_10302_10060_10112_10113_10155_10114_101 54_10056_10055_10054_10310_10182_10059_10184_100031_10099_10078_10079_10210_10103_10073_10102_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051-10050,searchweb201603_16,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=cf8969e 0-a3a9-4a90-8c30-bf2a019ce5e2&algo_expid=ee9c087f-2934-4880-9f1e-a30796d57221-1&algo_pvid=ee9c087f-2934-4880-9f1e-a30796d57221]LED FLOODLIGHT[/URL]

Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on July 27, 2017, 05:15 PM:

Thanks Phil...I can't believe how cheap it is. I want to get one just to test

This link might be easier:

https://tinyurl.com/y7tssrzm

.

Posted by Alan Taplow (Member # 4702) on May 14, 2018, 06:11 PM:

Janice,
Did you try it & how does it work?

Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on May 14, 2018, 06:53 PM:

You know Alan I must admit I got it...but never did anything with it. Like a lot of projects, this one got put on the back burner. Thanks for reminding me though...I need to put this back on my to-do list [Smile]

Posted by Franco Consales (Member # 5937) on October 26, 2018, 06:08 AM:

Hello Janice,
I really like the idea to change the holder in the Sankyo 1000.
Since I‘ve changed the bulb in my Sankyo 1000 it is not bright like before.
I bought a Photolux cxl cxr bulb but it is definitely not worthy.
I’ve also removed the glass near the frame that is described in another post and the screening is still very dark. So I guess I should replace the bulb.
The price of the bulbs cxl cxr, that are not Photolux, here in Uk are quite expensive, more than a projector. So if could put I a different holder could be a great solution. I guess the holder that you used for your experiment is same holder of the Eumig Mark 610D? It would be great if the Sankyo 1000 could have same brightness. There is any progress in such experiment? Could you please update us with some “tutorial” ? Many thanks

In UK found those 2 holders:
https://www.enviro-lights.co.uk/product/gx5-3-lampholder-with-rh-ejector/
and
https://internationallamps.co.uk/product/gx5-3-lampholder-with-rh-ejector/

Do you think the gx5-3 can work?
Thanks,
Franco

[ October 26, 2018, 07:30 AM: Message edited by: Franco Consales ]

Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on October 26, 2018, 05:20 PM:

Hi Franco...Since I don't have a working Sankyo 1000 anymore...I no longer have a need to upgrade the lamp. However I have given you several suggestions in the posts above that should give you an idea of what a conversion would entail. Yes...the links you provided are the exact lamp holder I used. However as I previously described...the holder is too wide...the cover won't fit back on. If you can remove a portion of the heat-shield in the cover...the holder should work.

Good Luck and if you get it to work. Post some pics in this thread.

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