This is topic Bauer T502 sound issues in forum 8mm Forum at 8mm Forum.


To visit this topic, use this URL:
https://8mmforum.film-tech.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=011906

Posted by Marc Servitje (Member # 6178) on November 25, 2017, 05:48 PM:
 
First of all, I want to thank you all for accepting me on this forum. Secondly, I want to make clear that I have never been a technical person and that my interest in Super 8mm comes from my love for the movies, my own childhood memories and how these films look on the screen. Therefore I try to use the most reliable projectors and I have a very limited knowledge on how to use them and fix them. So please be patient with my clumsiness and ignorance.

Anyways, I recently bought a Bauer T502 projector on Ebay from Germany and I have experienced some issues with the sound. At first I could not hear anything, but all of a sudden, I managed to get it (and I don´t think it had anything to do with the track selection or something as simple as pumping up the volume). I don´t know why but it started working wonderfully. I watched several films and I was superhappy with its purchase, specially because -as it´s been stated in this same forum- this projector seems to be very gentle with the films and it seems like the ideal one to project Derann movies. BUT, after 2 weeks without using it, I lost the sound again. I opened the back of the projector and I believe that the connection to the speakers is just fine. Also, whenever I pump up the volume without a film and I put my ear next to the speaker, I do hear the "buzzing" louder. I have the feeling that it may have to be related to the sound head? Does anyone own a Bauer T502 and has issues with the sound as well?

Also, I´d like to ask if selecting a 110V or a 120V would make any difference in a Super 8mm projector.

Best regards,

Marc

Thanks for spreading your limitless knowledge.
 
Posted by Steve Klare (Member # 12) on November 25, 2017, 08:44 PM:
 
Hi Marc,

This sounds like some bad connection: a cracked land on a PC board, a loose pin in a connector, a bad solder joint, a flaky switch: there are so many things it could be.

A lot of other things, basically when it goes away, it stays away for good.

There's a classic trick of working switches and plugging and unplugging into jacks: no promises, but it often leads to pleasant surprises. It's even possible that just by accident this is what brought the sound back the first time.

BTW: Sometimes you can learn a lot from Divide and Conquer. If your machine has a headphone jack it would be interesting to see if the sound is getting that far.

Where we are 110 or 120V should both work: 110V will give you a brighter picture but 120 will help your lamps last longer.
 
Posted by David Roberts (Member # 197) on November 26, 2017, 02:41 AM:
 
I use a 502 daily. on mine,the sound does have hum when turned up,say if the track is recorded low.
The amplifier board has numerous plug in connectors,which you can unplug a few times to clean.
Also,work the switches,as Steve says.
Put the main control knob fully anti clockwise,with the side cover removed,this puts the film path into "cleaning mode", so you can get to the heads to clean.
do you use an extension speaker? the internal one has little connectors on the main board that brake or bend easily,make certain these are ok.
hope this helps,they are great machines.
 
Posted by Marc Servitje (Member # 6178) on November 26, 2017, 08:39 AM:
 
Thanks to both of you for taking the time to reply!

Steven:

"There's a classic trick of working switches and plugging and unplugging into jacks: no promises, but it often leads to pleasant surprises. It's even possible that just by accident this is what brought the sound back the first time".

I agree. I kept pushing all the buttons and switchers, until all of a sudden I heard the sound. It felt like a happy accident. Unfourtanetly I have been trying the same thing again and it doesn't seem to make any difference.

I don't have headphones at the moment to try what you are suggesting. I have external speakers but I don't think they have the right impedance, so they might not be useful for this purpose (I believe the inner speaker is 12 ohms and the ext is 8 ohms, so I guess the ext should not work?).

Thanks very much on the 110V and 120V appreciation, I am already seeking other projectors in Germany and I wondered if that would affect the perfomance of the machine.

David:

"Put the main control knob fully anti clockwise,with the side cover removed,this puts the film path into "cleaning mode", so you can get to the heads to clean".

I did try that after watching a video on Youtube, but I am not sure I was reaching the right spot. Also, that area looks a bit difficult to reach/inspect.

I agree about the Bauer 502 being a great machine. Although I am no expert, I've noticed that the films were not being scratched. So far I have owned a Chinon, a Yelco, a Braun Visacustic (great machine too) and a Bell & Howell, and I feel that Bauer is the best one to use for expensive films.

So you both believe that it all comes to a lose connection?
 
Posted by David Roberts (Member # 197) on November 26, 2017, 12:44 PM:
 
Marc,
if you found that by operating the switches,the sound did return,even briefly,then that would suggest you have a bad contact,if it was mine,the next thing I would try is a switch cleaner spray on and around all those sliders and switches.
ive used an 8 ohm extension speaker ,no problem. A 4 ohm is better and that's what Bauer specify.
With the control knob anti clockwise fully,cover off,the film path is opened enough to get a cotton bud in to clean things.
most people use isopropryl alcohol for this.
 
Posted by Marc Servitje (Member # 6178) on November 26, 2017, 06:02 PM:
 
Hey David!

Thanks again. I did use a cotton swab, although I wonder if it´s the ideal thing to use, since it may leave some cotton behind. But since you suggested it I´ll try it again. Do you also use the cotton swaps to clean the "main window", I mean where the frame receives the light from the projector? (Sorry, I´m originally from Barcelona, so I am not a native English speaker).

I´ll look for a switch cleaner spray, any particular brand?

I have to double check the ohms on the speakers.
 
Posted by David Roberts (Member # 197) on November 27, 2017, 02:46 AM:
 
hello Marc,
I use cotton buds soaked in isopropyl alcohol,for the entire film path,to include the gate,all rollers etc. I think though you should avoid the alcohol on the rubber wheel just behind the soundheads,because it can cause the rubber to harden in time.
any brand of switch cleaner should do. some people don't like using this,because it can leave a residue,but ive never had any issues,and often with these old machines,its lack of use with the switches etc that causes intermittent problems like yours.
I would never have guessed English is not your first language!
 
Posted by Terry Sills (Member # 3309) on November 27, 2017, 03:45 AM:
 
Strange because when I bought my T502 it had exactly the same problem-no sound. But when I got it home it was working fine. I wonder whether the journey home in the car had jolted a loose connection which got it working again.
Never had a problem since so no real need to investigate - if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Perhaps Marc should try bouncing it around a bit [Smile]
 
Posted by Dominique De Bast (Member # 3798) on November 27, 2017, 11:49 AM:
 
Marc, I used with success this contact cleaner on a Fujicascope (that has a hard to find lampholder) and on an Elmo St 180 (for the speed selector).

 -
 
Posted by Terry Sills (Member # 3309) on November 27, 2017, 12:01 PM:
 
Dom
Do you think there is any difference to the usual WD40 or is it a marketing con?
As you can probably tell I am a bit of a cynic.
 
Posted by Dominique De Bast (Member # 3798) on November 27, 2017, 01:50 PM:
 
Terry, I discovered only recently that wd 40 seems to be the name of a product on the UK while it's a make here. I have no idea what "your" wd 40 is so I cannot answer your question 😀

[ November 27, 2017, 04:43 PM: Message edited by: Dominique De Bast ]
 
Posted by Maurice Leakey (Member # 916) on November 27, 2017, 02:48 PM:
 
Have a look at this link to the history of WD40.
https://www.wd40company.com/who-we-are/our-history/
 
Posted by Terry Sills (Member # 3309) on November 27, 2017, 03:36 PM:
 
Dom
Do you think there is any difference to the usual WD40 or is it a marketing con?
As you can probably tell I am a bit of a cynic.
 
Posted by Marc Servitje (Member # 6178) on November 27, 2017, 04:42 PM:
 
Thanks to everyone for showing so much interest. I´ll try all the different solutions that you have suggested and if I see any changes, I´ll let you know.

A big thank you!
 


Visit www.film-tech.com for free equipment manual downloads. Copyright 2003-2019 Film-Tech Cinema Systems LLC

Powered by Infopop Corporation
UBB.classicTM 6.3.1.2