This is topic To Soak Or Not To Soak! in forum 16mm Forum at 8mm Forum.
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Posted by Dan Lail (Member # 18) on December 19, 2005, 12:37 AM:
Just got a clean print of The Saint's Vacation b/w 1941. The only problem is it jumps in the gate. There is no perf wear or damage and no splices! Would a good soaking in Film Renew solve this problem. I have plenty of Fim Renew I use for spot cleaning, but I haven't dunk one yet. It's a C&C Movie Time print on acetate.
Posted by Jean-Marc Toussaint (Member # 270) on December 19, 2005, 12:47 AM:
Dan, it could help. I've done this with many of my prints. Two of them are still a bit jumpy, even after several weeks of treatment. So, Film Renew works great, most of the time, but not all the time.
Posted by Dan Lail (Member # 18) on December 19, 2005, 12:53 AM:
Wow! That was quick. Thanks Jean-Marc. Well, how about Vita-film. Would that work better than Film Renew? I don't have any Vita-Film, but could invest in a gallon.
Posted by Jean-Marc Toussaint (Member # 270) on December 19, 2005, 02:01 AM:
I haven't tried Vita-Film yet. If you do, let us know about the results.
Have you tried running the film in another projector? I have a Disney short that's very jumpy on one machine but runs great on another... Go figure...
Posted by Tony Milman (Member # 7) on December 19, 2005, 06:43 AM:
WD40
Posted by Kenneth Horan (Member # 3) on December 19, 2005, 08:02 AM:
What works best for me is to simply run your print on rewinds through lint free pads soaked in Filmrenew. Do it more than once if you need to. I don't find soaking is necessary in this case.
Posted by Roger Manning Jr (Member # 321) on December 19, 2005, 10:50 AM:
Hi Dan,
I find that a good wipe with Filmrenew and let that dry and follow it up with a nice wipe of Film-Guard does the trick for a jumpy print.
Posted by Dan Lail (Member # 18) on December 19, 2005, 01:22 PM:
Thanks for the info everyone. Roger, where can I purchase a small quantity of Filmguard and how much does it cost?
Posted by Roger Manning Jr (Member # 321) on December 19, 2005, 01:54 PM:
Dan I get it from GTS they also sell it on Ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/FILM-GUARD-MOVIE-P ROJECTOR-CLEANER-LUBRICANT_W0QQitemZ7537448871QQcategoryZ1267QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
It's great stuff I always put it on a print before a show.
I have been useing it for few years now, It go's a long way one bottle will do about 60-80 16mm features.
Posted by Adrian Winchester (Member # 248) on December 19, 2005, 05:20 PM:
"I find that a good wipe with Filmrenew and let that dry..."
Roger (or anyone): I recently obtained some Filmrenew for the first time, and I'd be curious to know what's precisely meant by letting it dry? In what sort of position and for how long would you leave the reel for drying to occur. I've noticed how exceptionally 'wet' Filmrenew is, so does much of it evaporate during the drying period? I think I saw a post on the 16mm Forum in which Larry Urbanski said you can run a film straight after application - if so, I suppose this might speed up the drying a little.
Adrian
Posted by Roger Manning Jr (Member # 321) on December 19, 2005, 05:35 PM:
Hi Adrian,
The Filmrenew should be dry before you use Filmguard.
I find that Filmrenew will dry in a few days, out in the open not in a can or box. Filmguard is slow drying it wil stay on a print for a long time six months or so.
I would let a print dry for three or four days before wiping it with Filmguard.
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on December 20, 2005, 01:05 AM:
I would recommend you try wiping a small section of the print between the feed reel and projector with a cloth while it is running to see if the jumping stops with whatever film cleaner you have. Ideally you want a film lubricant moreso than a cleaner so you don't end up with the same problem a year down the road.
If you have FilmRenew or VitaFilm, you can try the soaking if a pass through a cloth on rewinds doesn't do the trick. If you have access to FilmGuard, you do not need to soak the film. Just a pass between rewinds will be more than ample. If you want to use multiple cleaning solutions on the print, order doesn't really matter so long as FilmGuard is the last, as it is designed to leave a thin coating of lubricant which will take about a year or so to fully evaporate from the surface, unlike the other cleaners which must evaporate before the film is rewound.
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