8mm Forum: Best products/techniques for splicing?

This is topic Best products/techniques for splicing? in forum 16mm Forum at 8mm Forum.

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Posted by Robert Stewart (Member # 3692) on May 09, 2013, 07:13 PM:

I've got a decent collection of very old 16mm reels (30s-50s). As expected there are some damaged spots I need to bypass, along with quite a few I'd like to add leaders to.

In the past I've just used scissors and scotch tape to crudely join film segments. That worked fine for immediate playback, but I'm guessing the tape doesn't stay properly adhered for long. For this 'new' group I'd like to do a more permanent & polished job.

Any suggestions, either a specific how-to or even the best products available for the task?

Posted by Ken Finch (Member # 2768) on May 13, 2013, 12:24 PM:

Hi, I suggest you obtain a 16mm or Universal Splicer and use film cement. or a proper 16mm film tape splicer and splicing tape. Either items should be available from a dealer in your area. Make sure you clean off all the goo from the tape you have been using. Ken Finch.

Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on May 13, 2013, 02:33 PM:

Either of these methods will work well for 16mm.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7s_kB2_C668&list=UUzhVuBJou11ziWdERi0ZGuQ&index=7

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7svDF_Gc8pk&list=UUzhVuBJou11ziWdERi0ZGuQ

Posted by Robert Stewart (Member # 3692) on May 19, 2013, 09:51 PM:

Thanks for the advice! Can any of you folks recommend a reputable online vendor for a splicer & cement? Haven't had much luck locally.

Posted by Barry Fritz (Member # 1865) on May 20, 2013, 03:21 PM:

Urbanski film has your needs.

Posted by Vidar Olavesen (Member # 3354) on May 20, 2013, 03:32 PM:

Second that. Get my Kodak splicing tapes from him

http://moviecraft.tripod.com/supplies.html

Posted by Steve Withnell (Member # 5495) on September 11, 2016, 04:24 PM:

Which is best - cement splicing or tape splicing? I've been using a cement splicer and other than a build up of cement on the splicer to keep on top of, seems to work well.

Wondering what the pro's and cons might be.

Steve

Posted by Maurice Leakey (Member # 916) on September 12, 2016, 02:34 AM:

For 16mm, I feel that cement splicing is best, provided that it is done correctly, but bear in mind that there is a limited amount of 16mm polyester stock out there which will need to be joined with tape.

Tape is a quick and convenient medium but joins made with the butt splicers, such as the CIR, often slightly creep apart over the years. This results in a floppy loop, and a "click" from the sound system as the join goes through.

I have no experience of the Kodak system, something never really taken up in this country.

Posted by James Wilson (Member # 4620) on September 12, 2016, 04:39 AM:

For 8mm/Super8mm I always use cement, I find quicker & cleaner,
and lasts a long time.

Posted by David Michael Leugers (Member # 166) on September 19, 2016, 12:32 AM:

I prefer cement splicing because I like to do it, made on a good splicer like a Maier Handcock they last, and -most importantly- you can soak your print without the splices coming apart like tape splices do. Tape splicing on a budget I use and recommend Kodak splice tapes made using a Rivas (or similar) tape splicer. These units are pro quality and are great to use the Kodak splices on. They can be bought on eBay for very little money.

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on September 19, 2016, 04:21 AM:

Cement does not work for polyester stock therefore it would be useless for my needs with almost all of my later Super 8mm prints.

"Jackro" tape adhesive is extremely strong in use I've found and even after cleaning prints repeatedly in FG, I've never had one detach so far.

Good quality metal bodiex C.I.R.splicers are not cheap, but they are worth every single penny in my opinion.

Posted by Dave Groves (Member # 4685) on September 19, 2016, 05:24 AM:

I started off using cement like everyone did but never really found it 100% successful. I've used tape for years and never found any problem. Over a long time they may stretch a little as the adhesive weakens but I have to say I've only found this on prints that have been unused and forgotten for years.

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