8mm Forum: Best B&H Projector?

This is topic Best B&H Projector? in forum 16mm Forum at 8mm Forum.

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Posted by Brad Kimball (Member # 5) on June 28, 2013, 12:36 PM:

As far as slot-loaders go...Which model does everyone think was the best that B&H made?

Posted by Robert Crewdson (Member # 3790) on June 28, 2013, 01:42 PM:

There is conflicting information on the internet regarding projectors and how safely they handle our precious film. On one internet site some time back I saw 'Automatic Threaders' referred to as 'Automatic Shredders', and recommending slot loading machines. I think this article will be of interest as it was written by a Head Technician and Manager of a Bell & Howell Repair Depot. Some people recommend Manual Threading; I have had a couple of problems doing it manually, certainly not as easy as the demonstration given in an old B&H film on Youtube.
http://www.ebay.com/gds/Bell-amp-Howell-Lowdown/10000000003873535/g.html

Posted by Brad Kimball (Member # 5) on June 28, 2013, 10:33 PM:

I have both Slot-Loaders and Auto-Threaders from B&H. I like both the 2580s and the 2585s I have, but the Slot-Loaders are just so much easier to retrieve film from if they start to get chewed or bunched up in the projector. I also have an EIKI Slot-Loader which I love (it has to be the quietest machine I've ever been introduced to), but sadly it's in need of some repair. I just cannot bear to manually thread a film. I owned a B&H 500 series manual unit years ago and absolutely hated the temperamental son-of-a-b****. I never got anything to play right on the damned thing. Binned it years ago and with no regrets.

Posted by Simon McConway (Member # 219) on June 29, 2013, 04:33 PM:

Robert

The article on Ebay is interesting. This guy writing it worries me! He cites himself as the chief engineer but then goes on to get some facts incorrect; he states that the main mechanism gear drives the worm gears...this main drive gear IS the worm gear! He means that the worm gear drives two larger gears above and below!

I received training from a former B & H engineer and the main enemy of any B & H is WD40 and also the "amateur" engineer. If any of these have been applied to a B & H, chances are it'll give a sub-standard performance.

Posted by Simon Wyss (Member # 1569) on June 30, 2013, 04:27 AM:

1940s Filmosound models

Posted by Robert Crewdson (Member # 3790) on June 30, 2013, 06:34 AM:

Thanks for that info Simon, I used WD40 on a 1940s B@H, as you regularly should lubricate then, I have the original oil can, but it's not easy to reach inside the wooden case. I don't use the projector much, but it's probably better to find a fine oil from somewhere.

Posted by Richard C Patchett (Member # 974) on June 30, 2013, 03:38 PM:

Greetings

PEOPLE Do not use WD 40 its graphite It eats plastic and is flammable

All plastic is porous. Some plastic is instantly decomposed by solvents Additives sometimes cause a lubricant to react with plastic. For example, solid additives, such as graphite or molybdenum disulfide (moly), can penetrate and weaken a plastic component and should generally be avoided. On the other hand, PTFE solid additives are useful in specific cases such as reducing startup friction or providing dry lubrication.
If you need more infor on this email me
Thank you RC

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