This is topic 16mm processing in forum 16mm Forum at 8mm Forum.


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Posted by Mark Todd (Member # 96) on October 21, 2014, 02:53 AM:
 
Hi does anyone know of someone in the UK who does 16mm B+W processing of camera film please as looking for lower cost options.

Anyone got a very cheap, nice and working Kragnorsk sat on the shelf by the way please too.

Thanks Mark
 
Posted by Paul Mason (Member # 4015) on October 21, 2014, 07:40 AM:
 
Mark,
I don't know anyone advertising black and white reversal processing in the UK but these people will develop negative and print positives:
http://www.no-w-here.org.uk/index.php?cat=4&subcat=main
Ebay usually have several Krasnogorsk but have you considered a Bell & Howell 70DR? These take single perforated film:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bell-and-Howell-70DR-clockwork-16mm-Cine-Camera-body-/261589640701?pt=UK_Photography_VintageCameras_SM&hash=item3ce7f525fd
 
Posted by Mark Todd (Member # 96) on October 25, 2014, 10:22 AM:
 
Thanks Paul. I think it would be really just usual print wise I think.

But just had some bad luck super 8 wise so maybe HD is better anyway with how things are now.

Best Mark.
 
Posted by Dominique De Bast (Member # 3798) on October 25, 2014, 11:00 AM:
 
It is not in UK but they don't overcharge for post & packing : http://www.super8.nl/english/e_index.htm
 
Posted by Paul Mason (Member # 4015) on October 25, 2014, 11:04 AM:
 
Good luck Mark,
I am about to copy some of my late father's family footage taken in 1954 on a Cine Kodak A. I am going to film the projected picture with a Bolex using Fomapan R reversal and have it processed by Andec in Germany.
 
Posted by Martin Jones (Member # 1163) on October 25, 2014, 11:53 AM:
 
Paul,
How are you going to ensure that the projector and camera (and their shutters, of course) are in exact sync?
Martin
 
Posted by Paul Mason (Member # 4015) on October 26, 2014, 04:30 AM:
 
Martin,
I can't of course without a sync system. I'm going to use the late Francis Williams's method. I use an electric motor on the Bolex and close its variable shutter to about 120 degrees. This 120 degrees is equal to one open plus one dark period of the projector shutter. If the camera and projector run at approximately the same speed, the film receives the same total exposure per frame regardless of the relative positions of the two shutters. I have also used a Super 8 XL camera with a 220 degree shutter and this works well too.
 


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