This is topic EX2000A rear sprocket issue in forum 16mm Forum at 8mm Forum.
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Posted by Stuart Reid (Member # 1460) on January 22, 2019, 04:53 PM:
I've got a problem with my rear sprocket, please take a look at the video and see what you think. youtube
Posted by Mark Todd (Member # 96) on January 22, 2019, 06:30 PM:
Hi Stuart I would get the rollers that are`nt spinning freely off and get some silicone lube on the shafts and inside the rollers, should help. Not oil or grease though.
Get some of the lube on a cotton bud pushed through the inside of the rollers and rub the shafts etc, to get any old grease or gunk off or out.
Also the loop under the gate looks as if it could do with being a little larger. That may help anyway.
RE the judder at the back is the take up arm OK, the belt.
Sometimes a little grease on the rubber take up belt can help I did hear. But not sure about that as could cause slackenning as the reel gets fuller. ? anyone ?
Best Mark.
https://w ww.ebay.co.uk/itm/200ml-Dry-Lube-Silicone-Lubricant-Oil-Spray-Grease-Vehicle-Chain-Parts-Spray/132866655511?hash=item1eef784517:g:Pa4AAOSwuQhb-YeJ:rk:7:pf:0
Posted by Stuart Reid (Member # 1460) on January 23, 2019, 04:39 AM:
Thanks Mark, is the cork in the takeup spindle supposed to have a little lube? It's dry as a bone.
Posted by Mark Todd (Member # 96) on January 23, 2019, 05:03 AM:
Hi Stuart, not sure.
But I`d tackle the rollers until someone in the know can say at least.
Does the lower loop always thread a bit tight up if you will.
It needs to be more under the gate, alittle further away from the reloop roller.
I`d pop another sprocket holes worth past the gate for that, or maybe 2 even depending etc. Then pop a bit extra through for the top one if needed.
Best Mark.
I may well be wrong but that movement on the last roller before the take up does look like it may be take up, and usually sprung and meant to move a little for that if you will.
Posted by Maurice Leakey (Member # 916) on January 23, 2019, 05:12 AM:
Stuart
Your problem may lie in the take-up clutch. You say the cork lining is dry. It should be lubricated to allow a slight slip.
As your model is somewhat like the early S/SM models you could refer to the service manuals for the ST/M. See pages 4 and 5 for details.
Go to the Film Tech manuals site. then 16mm , and then scroll down to ST/M.
http://www.film-tech.com/warehouse/index.php?category=2#16mm Projectors
Posted by Mark Todd (Member # 96) on January 23, 2019, 05:18 AM:
Great Maurice so what do you put in, or sort of into there, a light oil like sewing machine etc or will a 3 in 1 etc do.
Do you sort of work it round so it soaks on or is there a place to apply it ?
Its all for the good Stuart as a nice machine.
I bet the picture is amazing.
Best Mark.
Posted by Stuart Reid (Member # 1460) on January 23, 2019, 05:52 AM:
The manual suggests I use 'phono-lub' anyone know what this might be similar to?
Posted by Maurice Leakey (Member # 916) on January 23, 2019, 05:53 AM:
The manual gives details of the oil, but no real description of it. Light machine oil will do.
If the washer is dry, that's what's causing the lower pulley to be unstable.
The rear take-up spindle assembly needs to be dismantled to get at the washer. A light application of oil will do just to give it a light soak.
Posted by Stuart Reid (Member # 1460) on January 23, 2019, 06:01 AM:
Thanks Maurice, and thanks Mark. Sadly if the machine is this fussy with takeup I'm worried I won't be able to get it to work with my Elf tower long play unit, which was the whole point of getting the projector.
Posted by Mark Todd (Member # 96) on January 23, 2019, 06:01 AM:
Not sure but I think this is similar to that Stuart. Bottom of post.
A light oil or that might be the trick for the cork ? ( Maurice ? )
But I have heard of grease being put on.
This is well handy for nylon cogs etc in the back of any projector anyway.
https:// [URL=http://http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Liqui-Moly-Transparent-Silicon-Grease-100g-3312/182491619249?epid=647344234&hash=item2a7d591fb1:g:s0EAAOSwhQhYypS7:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true[/U RL]]www .ebay.co.uk/itm/Liqui-Moly-Transparent-Silicon-Grease-100g-3312/182491619249?epid=647344234&hash=item2a7d591fb1:g:s0EAAOSwhQhYypS7:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true[/URL]
Best Mark.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Groove-Guard-Turntable-Oil -10ml/172463310673?hash=item28279d4751:g:3GMAAOSw5cNYZCbq:rk:69:pf:0
PS Stuart the long play unit should have its own take up clutch/tension type set up I think.
Posted by Maurice Leakey (Member # 916) on January 23, 2019, 06:29 AM:
Stuart
Have a look at this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZrOLhPWfm0w
Posted by Simon McConway (Member # 219) on January 23, 2019, 10:34 AM:
Copper grease in the take up (use LITTLE) is best, as it maintains some friction. Don't overdo the lube, it's better to add a small amount, then add a little more later if you feel it's needed. This advice came from an ex-Elf service engineer.
Posted by Mark Todd (Member # 96) on January 23, 2019, 10:54 AM:
Is that copperslip type grease like you use on brakes etc Simon ?
Good tip.
Best Mark.
Posted by Simon McConway (Member # 219) on January 23, 2019, 11:02 AM:
That's it, yes. But go carefully. More is not better, grease-wise.
Posted by Stuart Reid (Member # 1460) on January 23, 2019, 11:10 AM:
Well I'm stymied. Ive spent today lubing rollers, checked the takeup, belt is all good, lightly greased the clutch and it's as bad as ever. Possibly worse! It *has* to be takeup tension though, I've cut short lengths of film and leader to run in a 6 foot loop and it doesn't miss a beat,but as soon as I lace it up normally all hell breaks loose!
Posted by Mark Todd (Member # 96) on January 23, 2019, 11:18 AM:
Buggering Heck Stuart, thats a shame.
It can be like that sometimes with projectors.
Does anyone know if there is a take up from another machine you can substitute etc.
Or even have a spares machine tucked away somewhere.
Best Mark.
Posted by Stuart Reid (Member # 1460) on January 23, 2019, 11:38 AM:
Hmmm that's not a bad idea. I haven't got one here but there might be a scrapper out there somewhere...
Posted by Mark Todd (Member # 96) on January 24, 2019, 06:04 AM:
Hopefully someone on here will be able to help Stuart.
Have you tried Ian, he has a few old bits about I think or did.
Best Mark.
Posted by Maurice Leakey (Member # 916) on January 24, 2019, 06:31 AM:
Stuart
As Mark mentioned, surely your take-up tower will have some form of clutch, and you will not need the take-up part of the projector.
When I did mobile years ago with 6000ft spools the separate motor had a speed control, also the take-up clutch was adjustable.
In my later cinema years we used a tower which had variacs which controlled the speed of the four spools. As the film progressed we gently adjusted the speeds of the take-up and feed spool.
Posted by Stuart Reid (Member # 1460) on January 24, 2019, 08:04 AM:
Maurice, my LPU is (I think) an early Eiki. It has an on/off switch and one further toggle switch, the function of which I've never been able to figure out. I will post some pictures later.
Posted by Maurice Leakey (Member # 916) on January 24, 2019, 08:59 AM:
Stuart
Have a look at this Van Eck site.
There appear to be rollers which clip to the spool arms. Also they have an English manual.
I assume the one shown is the same as yours.
https://www.van-eck.net/itable.php?lang=en&size=0&cat=film&merk=49&type=Longplay Unit UK
Posted by Simon McConway (Member # 219) on January 24, 2019, 09:32 AM:
The switch is probably part of some kind of change-over system where the projector is used in conjunction with another one.
Avoid touching any part of lamp power supply. Lethal voltages exist there, even after disconnecting from the mains. Any adjustments, made without professional knowledge, could cause the lamp to explode, so use extreme care.
Posted by Maurice Leakey (Member # 916) on January 24, 2019, 09:53 AM:
Simon
As this is a long play unit there would be no need to change over between two projectors. Or, have I misread your comment?
On the long play model on the Van Eck site the unit sits to the left of the projector and the feed spool at the back of the unit is slightly offset for the film to reach to the top spool arm. The take-up spool (nearest the operator) is fed direct from the rear of the projector. The rear take-up arm is kept in its storage position.
Posted by Maurice Leakey (Member # 916) on April 04, 2019, 11:43 AM:
Stuart
Referring to this topic after some time. Did you ever get the take-up sorted?
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