This is topic Film Cement in forum General Yak at 8mm Forum.
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Posted by Maurice Leakey (Member # 916) on June 24, 2014, 02:40 AM:
As this applies to all film gauges I am using General Yak.
What film cement is generally available and what do members consider the best?
Many years ago I used Embacoid, then later it was improved by the introduction of Tricoid, but nowadays I have no idea what to buy.
I have used tape for many years, mainly with the CIR splicers as we did in the cinema, the 16mm version is fine, but the little Super 8 model is not entirely satisfactory due to the very small cutting teeth needed for the little perforations. It also has to perforate four holes at a time and rarely does this.
So, for non-polyester films I am thinking of going back to cement.
Members' view are welcome.
Posted by David Ollerearnshaw (Member # 3296) on June 24, 2014, 04:17 AM:
Although I have never used cement splices. Hama seems the most popular on ebay
A couple of links:
This vendor also has film cleaner.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cine-Film-Cement-25ml-for-splicing-on-super-8-Standard-8mm-16mm-9-5mm-splicer-/261505582189?pt=UK_Photography_VintagePhotography_VintagePhotoAccessories&h ash=item3ce2f2846d
For Hama
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=film+cement&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC1.A0.H1.Xhama+film+cement&_nkw=hama+film+cement&_sacat=0
Like you Maurice I use a CIR for 16mm, the only one I have ever had and its quite good.
For super 8 It was a 'Quik Splice' cheap quick, but did not cut on the frame line so lost two frames. Then CIR like you always had problems with the perf cutting, now use Wurker but tapes expensive.
Posted by Maurice Leakey (Member # 916) on June 24, 2014, 04:21 AM:
David
Many thanks for your comments and help.
If you wish to cut on the Super 8 frame line you can use the CIR for cutting and the Quik Splice for joining.
Posted by Jim Schrader (Member # 9) on June 24, 2014, 09:51 AM:
I use Kodak film cement.
Posted by Dominique De Bast (Member # 3798) on June 24, 2014, 11:17 AM:
I use Hama but also tape when I don't want to loose a frame in sound films. In 9,5 I use tape to repair damaged perforations as they make loops looses.
Posted by Maurice Leakey (Member # 916) on June 24, 2014, 12:07 PM:
Kodak Film Cement only seems to be available in the UK in large 473ml cans @ £28.80 ($48.87.)
Posted by Jim Schrader (Member # 9) on June 24, 2014, 07:50 PM:
kodak is available here in the small bottles with brushes.
Posted by David Michael Leugers (Member # 166) on June 24, 2014, 10:30 PM:
The Kodak film cement works great if you keep it fresh (like all film cements). Buying Kodak by the pint can be very cost effective and a relief to know you have plenty on hand. I just refilled three 1 ounce bottles (2 Kodak and 1 Craig) with cement from my Kodak pint can I have had for at least five years. I am down to the last 1/4 can yet the cement still works like fresh from a new bottle. I purchased the can of cement new stock and have always used it to fill 1 ounce bottles and then immediately carefully put the cap back on tight. I tape the cap sealed with several windings of electrical tape and put the can in a zip lock bag with the air squeezed out. If any doubts as to the quality of cement left in a bottle = pour it out and refill fresh from the can.
Posted by Bryan Chernick (Member # 1998) on June 25, 2014, 12:01 AM:
Kodak cement with a Bolex bevelled splicer. I bought a pint of Kodak film cement several years ago, I think it may last forever. The Bolex bevelled splicer makes the best cement splices consistently.
Posted by Thomas Dafnides (Member # 1851) on June 27, 2014, 05:37 PM:
I have a bottle of Craig cement from the 60's...still works fine.
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