8mm Forum: Eumig 810 D loose takeup

This is topic Eumig 810 D loose takeup in forum General Yak at 8mm Forum.

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Posted by Nick McCall (Member # 4213) on October 31, 2016, 12:21 AM:

The takeup on my Eumig 810 D always produces very loose winds, like the squishiness of a sponge, for every print I run. Is this normal for this model? Everything else seems to be working fine.

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on October 31, 2016, 03:18 AM:

No Nick, it is not. Nor is it normal for any model.

Either your friction linings in your reel hub clutch mechanism will be worn or maladjusted or a take up belt will be slack or worn or both.

Remove the rear cover and examine what is happening in run.
Do not touch anything while the mains lead is plugged in to the projector and the mains!!

Just stand and observe.

Posted by Paul Adsett (Member # 25) on October 31, 2016, 09:30 AM:

The take up tension on the Eumig 800's is adjustable by rotating the small serrated knob on the take-up shaft.

Posted by Terry Sills (Member # 3309) on October 31, 2016, 09:39 AM:

Paul is quite right. If memory serves they employ an all gear drive - no belts.

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on October 31, 2016, 10:28 AM:

Easier still then! 😊

That narrows it down somewhat.

Posted by Maurice Leakey (Member # 916) on November 01, 2016, 12:26 PM:

I believe the take-up adjustment can be seen from the attached photograph at top right.
http://img.xooimage.com/files88/d/3/4/projo-3786000.jpg

Posted by Nick McCall (Member # 4213) on November 01, 2016, 03:46 PM:

How tight should it be? When will I know if I've overdone it?

Posted by Paul Adsett (Member # 25) on November 01, 2016, 04:22 PM:

Adjust it so that there is just enough tension to wind up a full 600ft reel coming thru the projector.

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on November 01, 2016, 05:48 PM:

Just compress the spring on the clutch a little by winding in the screw thread a little by turning it clockwise after undoing any retaining screw.

Just do this in sensible increasing increments before testing it again after each occasion.
You'll know when it is correct as it will rewind 600ft of film without any slack or sagging but will not be so tight as it attempts to drag the film away from the claw causing jitter at the gate or begins to effect the sound at the capstan.

On each attempt..
If it isn't enough, wind in a little more.

If this does not do the trick, undo the clutch mechanism fully and inspect the clutch and any friction material utilized.

If this is either badly worn or worn away completely, no amount of spring compression will ever make any difference.

Once successfully restored, always follow the golden rule,
Never clean film with a cloth by using a projectors rewind facilities.
It destroys clutches, belts and motors for fun by doing so!

Posted by Dominique De Bast (Member # 3798) on November 01, 2016, 05:59 PM:

There is an intersting article in the latest edition of the Group 9.5 magazine about someone who had a big light improvement on this projector. But it has to be done by someone who knows what he's doing.

Posted by Zechariah Sporre (Member # 2358) on November 02, 2016, 01:00 PM:

Hi Dominique, they improved the light on an Eumig 800 series projector?? That sounds like a really interesting article. I love my Eumig 810, with a little more light output it would be excellent all around.

Posted by Dominique De Bast (Member # 3798) on November 02, 2016, 01:06 PM:

It looks indeed great but it has been done by specialists. The author of the article (who is the owner of the projector but did not do the transformations himself) says that his machine has more than 50 extra light than before it had been improved.

Posted by Steve Klare (Member # 12) on November 02, 2016, 02:02 PM:

An old friend of mine was a strict Eumigist. (-may have gone on pilgrimage to Vienna for all I know!)

He did up his 800 series to run (I believe) a 250W lamp by cutting into the wires running to the lamp and putting a second transformer in series with the one for the 100W lamp. This was in a box the machine sat on and included a fan that blew air up inside the chassis to prevent a meltdown from the hotter lamp.

This was done with a connector so he could remove the transformer, plug a different connector in which included a jumper (to restore the circuit), change the lamp and return the machine to 100W light.

He mainly went into after-burner mode for shows at his film club and returned to normal for back at his house.

Posted by Dominique De Bast (Member # 3798) on November 02, 2016, 02:17 PM:

The article says there were three modifications : ( I apologize for the aproximations, it is not easy for me to be too technical in English) the shutter is reduced (you loose the reverse option as ghosting would be visible), a modification (more complicated that just set the voltage on 220 volts instead of 230 or 240) is made to have 12 volts on the bulb holder rather than 11.5 and the gate aperture has been enlarged (that alone is said in the article to have increased the illumination of 20 %). The article is three pages long (among them, two gives technical détails) so my few lines are just to give an idea of what has been done.

Posted by Ken Finch (Member # 2768) on November 03, 2016, 02:55 PM:

I have also read the article and the mods are as Dom describes. I run an 810D myself but although technically minded would not modify my machine as I feel it may be asking for trouble in the long run. I find it perfectly adequate as it is. If you need a brighter picture, get a machine with the 15volt 150watt lamp. Ken Finch.

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on November 03, 2016, 04:16 PM:

I very much tend to agree with Ken on this one.

We've seen it all over the years with machines transformed into completely different machines they were never designed to be.

I distinctly remember seeing on one of the Armchair Odeon DVD's once, a projector which had been completely butchered in order to facilitate a 250w lamp.

The picture was of course, extremely bright, but the machine itself was a complete dogs dinner by the end with fans crudely bolted onto it and Heath Robinson created long play arms somehow morphed onto the originals.

You just wonder why these guys simply did not buy a machine suitable for their needs in the first place, if what they did buy, was completely unfit for their desired intended purpose?

Posted by Dominique De Bast (Member # 3798) on November 03, 2016, 05:22 PM:

A good safe way to improve a projector is to replace the lens when a better one is available. Some are rare and expensive unfortunately but in most case the difference is noticeable.

Posted by Paul Adsett (Member # 25) on November 03, 2016, 07:20 PM:

I totally agree Dom, the glass makes all the difference in the world. I replaced the f1.3 lens on my GS1200 with the Elmo f1.0 and the difference in brightness, sharpness, and contrast, is like night and day. I also use my Kodak f1.0 Ektar lens on my Eumig 800's and its like looking at my films for the first time.
Another big improvement that can be relatively easily accomplished on the GS, and some other projectors, is to switch to a 2-bladed shutter, which gives another big boost in screen brightness, without any butchering of the projector. I don't know how to do this on the Eumig 800's though.

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on November 03, 2016, 07:27 PM:

I don't believe anyone made these available for the Eumig range Paul.

Certainly not a Wittner's or an FFR type of establishment anyhow.

No doubt there will be a can of beans out there minus a lid now that will have been utilized by some Caractacus Pott! [Big Grin]

Posted by Dominique De Bast (Member # 3798) on November 03, 2016, 07:43 PM:

I don't remember having ever seen a Kodak 1.0 for sale. The problem with Eumig projectors is that there are several different kind of lenses and you don't always know which lens goes on which machine. One has been on sale and the seller wrote : "fits all the good machines" [Eek!]

The article about the "light improvement conversion" of the Eumig 810 says, if I undestood well, that the original shutter has been maintained but cut with all the needed precision.

Posted by Paul Adsett (Member # 25) on November 03, 2016, 07:53 PM:

Andrew, I had to have my Kodak Ektar lens barrel machined down to fit my Eumig 938. It now fits the Eumig 800 series as well, and transforms the picture quality of that machine.

The Ektar f1.0 lens was originl equipment fitted to all the Kodak M100 Super 8 sound projectors, just an amazing piece of glass fitted to a superb projector:

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on November 04, 2016, 05:29 AM:

I have no idea how you can "modify" a fixed 3 bladed shutter with a blade every 120 degrees into a two bladed one with a blade every 180 degrees???????

Not without chopping it into pieces anyhow!

By this point, you're back to the beans tin lid again!!

Nice mod to the Kodak lens btw Paul. A proper job it's nice to see. [Big Grin]

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