This is topic Cleaning Film in forum General Yak at 8mm Forum.
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Posted by Ronald Green (Member # 5655) on February 01, 2017, 07:16 PM:
How often should one clean their films? Have used a treated cloth and it seems to do the trick.
Don't want to over clean. Also, thanks for the information on drilling holes in the film cans. No odor of film has been detected.
Is one film cleaner better than the other?
Again, thanks.
Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on February 01, 2017, 07:28 PM:
Clean them as often as is necessary Ronald, no more, no less.
Filmguard does a superb job I've always found.
Posted by David Hardy (Member # 4628) on February 04, 2017, 03:59 PM:
I have always found that a soapy pad of steelwool does
a great job.
You never have to clean your films again ... EVER !!!
DONT DO IT I AM ONLY KIDDING !!!
Posted by Clinton Hunt (Member # 2072) on February 04, 2017, 04:16 PM:
David,when I was a newbie to this hobby I had a Super 8mm film that was stored in a shed and was mouldy and dirty,so I tried cleaning it with meths (I think,or Turps).... and it fixed that dirt problem as it completely took the film off and left a clear strip!
OOOOPPPPS I won't do that again
Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on February 04, 2017, 05:49 PM:
And on that note Clinton, surely this is where this topic of conversion has ended.
The same might be said of David's comments also.
Film cleaning btw, has been discussed here and elsewhere I might add,a minimum of a thousand times previously.
Have a read and all dilemmas needn't be!
Posted by Douglas Meltzer (Member # 28) on February 04, 2017, 09:42 PM:
Ronald,
Once I've cleaned & lubricated a print (I use FilmGuard) I feel that print is fine for a few years.
Andrew's point is well taken. Click on the search link, type in "film cleaning" and you'll find quite a few threads.
Doug
Posted by Brian Fretwell (Member # 4302) on February 05, 2017, 04:39 AM:
I would say it depends on what you mean by "Clean". If it looses loops and stutters in the gate it needs cleaning/lubricating. If it has dust and other dirt on it run it though a clean dry cloth to get it off, like cleaning a vinyl disc before playing.
I rewind through a soft dry cloth every time I project a print, both for this and to endure a tight re-spool so that more dirt won't get in and to reduce the occurrence of scratching if it is tightened (as it is already tight it shouldn't move) on the feed spool as it is shown.
Posted by Daniel Macarone (Member # 5102) on February 05, 2017, 12:48 PM:
Are you not worried a dry cloth might cause friction and scratching on film? The only time I use a dry cloth is to dry off cleaner that is already on.
Posted by Ronald Green (Member # 5655) on February 06, 2017, 01:03 AM:
This is great information and I "thank" all of you for your help.
Best Regards,
Ron Green
Posted by Brian Fretwell (Member # 4302) on February 06, 2017, 03:25 AM:
I haven't had any scratching yet, but I do use a very doft cloth and only use on lubricated films. Sometimes I can see the cleaner/lubricator hasn't spread and dried fully and fursthe wipes makes sure it has. I looked at a film on an editor-viewer recently that I hadn't projected for years and saw small droplet of cleaner on it!!!!!
Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on February 06, 2017, 03:29 AM:
This is an extremely common phenomena when using substances like FG while viewing through an editor.
It evaporates eventually anyhow, and none of these bubbles should be seen while projecting especially if you use one cloth to clean and lube the film, then a dry one afterwards to wipe away any excess.
I'm certain in your case there Brian, if you'd cleaned it again using the same substance as previously, then adopted the method above to dry off the film, those original droplets would simply disappear.
Posted by David Hardy (Member # 4628) on February 12, 2017, 04:15 AM:
Joking aside. In a cinema where I was employed as a projectionist we used to clean dirty prints with the
now banned C.T.C. ( Carbon Tetra Chloride ).
It did a wonderful job but you had to remember not to breathe
it in and open the film rewind room windows wide during its
application.
We also lubed our " green prints " with good old film wax.
This stuff was a bit flakey during the first runs but it soon
settled down.
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