8mm Forum: 9.5 Splicing

This is topic 9.5 Splicing in forum 9.5mm Forum at 8mm Forum.

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Posted by Brian Collins (Member # 761) on October 29, 2010, 10:42 AM:

Have a number of early 9.5mm films to transfer (1930's) first one depicts Graf Zeppelin and R101, problem is that the splicing in places is coming apart, the scrape and glue method does not have much effect, maybe because the film is a bit more brittle with age, what would be the best method of splicing this old film bearing in mind what is available on to-days market. The other query is how successful is it to have a spring loaded bottom roller to keep the bottom loop, I know it is used on the Bolex M8, so would it be an advantage to fit to my Ditmar 9.5mm. any advice appreciated.

Posted by Martin Jones (Member # 1163) on October 29, 2010, 12:47 PM:

Brian,
Here.... http://www.wittner-kinotechnik.de/katalog/03_verbr/d_s8mm.php

4th item down. You would have to use it by hand, or lay it on a conventional splicer bed... might need some practice
Martin

Posted by John Davis (Member # 1184) on November 02, 2010, 04:31 AM:

Hi Brian,
I use a Marguet (I think that's the right spelling) cement splicer on any 9.5mm film that comes my way and regardless of vintage it works very well. It has a lap of about 2mm between the films and this probably helps - I was given a Eumig 8mm splicer which only overlapped by less than 1mm and fould this unusable as the film end was literally hanging on by it's fingernails.
Would a wider overlap help? or does your existing splicer overlap the film ends quite a lot anyway?
John

Posted by Brian Collins (Member # 761) on November 03, 2010, 06:01 AM:

Thanks Martin, checked out that web site but although it is only 3.28euros a roll they require a minimum of 30euros plus postage from Germany. but have been talking to Grahame Newnham from the Nine-Five Page, www.pathefilm.freeserve.co.uk and he has stock to post locally.
By the way John the reason I am having trouble is that as Grahame explained, this is a notched film and the titles are only a few frames long because they are stilled in the projector for a short run so they had to use a low wattage bulb to do this, over time those few frames that was subjected to heat starts to buckle slightly and goes brittle and is very difficult to use cement on, to cement a splice anywhere else on the reel is no problem. I can re-title scenes later once I know where they are and the content of the titles. The other problem with overlapping too much is that the titles are only a few frames long due to the notching and cannot aford to loose too many trying to cement, so a butt joint would be better. Let you know how I get on.

Posted by Martin Jones (Member # 1163) on November 03, 2010, 07:04 AM:

Well done Brian! Yes, Grahame is a great guy and a good source of (9.5 mm) bits and bobs... just kicking myself for not thinking of him in the first place!
Martin

Posted by Dino Everette (Member # 1378) on November 06, 2010, 03:49 AM:

Brian you can also use a standard 16mm guillotine splicer as the tape covers 2 full frames of 9.5 with nothing intruding in the image area...I generally do my splicing like this and then use one of the old (and very cheap)little notching blocks that they made for doing cement splicing...Basically I lay half of the film across the 16mm splicer and tape over. I cut the edges of the tape off with an exacto. I lift up the film slightly and join it to the other side so both halves are now butted up, and flip over and repeat....Now I have the film taped together but it has wings and two perf holes are covered..I use my snips to trim the sides, and punch the holes out with the old 9.5 punch and move on....
While I'd love to have a CIR 9.5 splicer I just can't afford one

Posted by Brian Collins (Member # 761) on November 06, 2010, 09:06 AM:

Yes Dino, I know what you mean about the price of the splicer, I have tried your way and it is fine but for punching the slot out cleanly, need to try and make a tool to do it. On my Ditmar if I make an overlapped joint, as it enters the gate it push's the gate back over the pawl and I loose the bottom loop. My Specto takes the joins through OK but for some reason the film does not run smoothly but jitters, but thats another problem to sort out sometime. thanks for your input.

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