posted December 05, 2003 03:29 PM
I'm trying to find out which shapes of film end suit which auto-load projectors best. Within the limtations of text format, the most common forms of end shapes are shown below. Some suit some projectors better than others. For example, on the 'straight cut' gives a reliable load with my Eumig Mark S. It will not accept the 'tongue' shape reliably.
Could you please let me know (direct email)
1. Which shape is best for which projector
2. Which projector desn't like a paricular shape
___ |o | |o | straight cut
__ / \ |o | tongue
_--_ |o | radius (shallow curve)
_ |o\ |o \ |o \ |o | taper (usually over 2 inches or so)
posted December 06, 2003 06:28 PM
Elmo's prefer the Radius type trim using the built in trimmer. Offer them a trimmed end which does not put that first sprocket hole in the right place and you will be sitting there for eternity waiting for the first sprocket wheel to grab the film.
Kev.
-------------------- GS1200 Xenon with Elmo 1.0...great combo along with a 16-CL Xenon for that super bright white light.
Posts: 7016
From: Long Island, NY, USA
Registered: Jun 2003
posted December 11, 2003 03:58 PM
Hmmmm.....
Pretty soon I'm getting a second sound projector. When that happens I'll have a Bolex SP-80 Special (Really a Eumig 810 in Bolex Clothing) and an Elmo ST-800 (the new addition).
Is there any end trim that will work on both machines?, or every time I switch machines will I have to nibble a little more off my films?
-------------------- All I ask is a wide screen and a projector to light her by...
posted December 11, 2003 04:14 PM
Steve, that's the reason I always put 30" (75 cm in Euros) of leader on my films. It is enough to get through to the take-up spool on all the projectors I've tried and allows for retrimming. When it loses 4" or so, I add a bit more on. If you use tape or overlap cement splices it also pulls the odd hair out of the gate!
Add 12" of leader to the end as well in case creases from reels break bits off.