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Topic: Test Report - Bolex 18-5
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Bryan Chernick
Jedi Master Film Handler
Posts: 654
From: Bothell, WA, USA
Registered: Mar 2010
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posted January 24, 2015 12:10 AM
Great report Paul! I have 2 18-5's, an 18-5 Super and an 18-5L. I agree that the Super 8 models would be better with manual feed like the 18-5. I love these projectors and have bought and sold a few, mostly to upgrade to one in better condition. I have had problems with a few that I think is worth mentioning. One problem is the selector switch, I've had one where the switch would stop responding then start working again. I could never figure out how to fix it with my limited knowledge of electronics. Another problem I ran into was a lack of voltage getting to the bulb. I know others have had these same problems, for me the solution was getting one in better working condition.
They do run nice and quiet, especially compared to the M8. If I had to choose between an 18-5 and the M8 I would choose the M8, good thing I don't have to make that choice. Besides being a beautiful projector the M8 has a few features that I wish they carried over to the 18-5., the obvious being variable speed. The other is the small wheel under the gate that helps keep the bottom loop when a splice gets stuck. I don't know why this wasn't a feature on many other projectors, it works great.
The 18-5 does have a size advantage over the M8 and they run great. By the way, I have purchased the original type of square belts on eBay a few times, I see them being sold on there frequently. It is cheaper to get the O-rings, they work just as well. If someone knows the exact O-ring size it would be nice to add that to this thread. I also had the original version of the 18-5 with the flat belt, those belts can be hard to find, almost as hard as a new cord.
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Paul Adsett
Film God
Posts: 5003
From: USA
Registered: Jun 2003
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posted January 24, 2015 09:47 AM
Thanks Bryan, I agree about the M8, a stunning looking machine.
The 0-rings that I used on my 18-5 are as follows:
Material: Butyl B612 rubber, or Ethylene Propylene rubber.
Hardness: 50 durometer
Inside Diameter : 1.66 ins
Wall thickness: 0.070 ins
Available from Parker Hannifin Seal Company USA and Worldwide.
Do any of you guys also have the Bolex -Paillard white leatherette carrying cover for the 18-5? I was lucky as my machine came with one, and I am wondering if it is a common item for these machines. My case is in excellent condition after 50 years, no sign of cracking or splitting. I keep it moisturized with an occasional application of ArmorAll.
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The best of all worlds- 8mm, super 8mm, 9.5mm, and HD Digital Projection,
Elmo GS1200 f1.0 2-blade
Eumig S938 Stereo f1.0 Ektar
Panasonic PT-AE4000U digital pj
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Maurizio Di Cintio
Jedi Master Film Handler
Posts: 977
From: Ortona, Italy
Registered: Jan 2004
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posted January 24, 2015 12:10 PM
I hate doing this, but if Andrew was referring to the Bauer/Silma projectors (Studioklasse and cheaper), their shutters are supposed to work in a totally different way: in fact regardless of the speed, the shutter's blade will have the same dimensions when the projector runs in forward. When in reverse, the additional blades, which in FWD mode remain hidden by the main blades, switch in position thus enlarging the main blades; that's to prevent ghosting on part of the screen in reverse, because that would happen with these machines, given the peculiar shutter cam, which provides a very fast claw arm movement; which is great in FWD mode but would lead to a certain degree of ghosting were it not for this feature. As a proof you can just watch the same footage in FWD mode at different speeds: the screen brightness will be the same. But in reverse there will be a slight decrease in brightness again at both speeds. Eumig 936, 938 and 940 copied the same concept. Eumigs Series 800, due to their claw being so tiny, give some ghosting in reverse on the lower side: they would have benefited of such a feature; still they're a good way to see with your eyes what I really mean, if you own a Eumig Series 800.
Anyway, Paul, I really appreciated your article in this Bolex model. Thanks for sharing.
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Maurizio
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Mark Todd
Film God
Posts: 3846
From: UK
Registered: Aug 2003
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posted January 30, 2015 02:37 PM
Well we just got a std 8 one with the auto feed version, a few films( silent of sounds though but still fun ), lovely order, the origional lead, runs well and lovely order in its origional carry case as well, and the 12.5mm lens quite cheap overall.
Its really more for with the kids and my eldest son thinks its amazing, showing people pics of it on his phone !!! the old and the new !!!
Hes buzzing about taking it in to college to run a few films on as well.
Sadly the back of the bulb the silver has fallen off but its still working just a little dim as loosing light both ways.
Has anyone got a bulb or two in the odd drawer etc they could sell at normal people levels please possibly.
Going to get some belts as well and I can see this little beauty staying between the 3 lads for a long time.
It simply oozes qaulity !!!, runs so quietly, but needs to work off that never run for 30-40 years type smell a bit.
Its stood out up being looked at whenever its passed right now.
Best Mark.
PS Hi Barry can you take off the film channel etc after the 2nd sprocket totlly so open like the 18-5 autoload only std 8 version, as those channels usually are flat amd mark the film running through or are the channels recessed please.
Thanks Mark.
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Paul Adsett
Film God
Posts: 5003
From: USA
Registered: Jun 2003
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posted February 02, 2015 06:40 PM
Hi Mark, as Barry and I mentioned earlier, the foam padding around the mains connector on the inside rear wall of the machine, is probably crumbling into dust. I would advise poking this out of the machine and cleaning up all the residual foam crumbs from the inside before they migrate into the mechanism and cause havoc. I am really suprised that you still have the original drive belts. I would advise replacing them with Butyl or EP O-Rings, as noted in the above thread.
There are no asbestos issues that I am aware of with this machine.
A single drop of machine oil on the internal shaft bearings, and some grease on the gears will ensure smooth running of the projector for years to come. Clean each of the fan blades and fan baffle. Regularly clean and polish the gate and film path with a little furniture polish on a cloth or Q-tip, and you will never scratch a single frame of film with this fine machine.
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The best of all worlds- 8mm, super 8mm, 9.5mm, and HD Digital Projection,
Elmo GS1200 f1.0 2-blade
Eumig S938 Stereo f1.0 Ektar
Panasonic PT-AE4000U digital pj
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John Hunter
Junior
Posts: 30
From: Gretna, Scotland
Registered: Jun 2015
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posted August 06, 2015 10:51 AM
I dont know if I am too late with this info, but here goes. I have been reading the ACW test report on the 18-5 projector, in the march 8 1962 issue. First the motor is listed as "induction type"
and says to reduce speed for 5fps a resister is switched into the motor circuit. It was tested alongside an M8R, both fitted with new lamps, and the 18-5 gave a brighter picture on the 36 inch screen. They also mention that the 18-5 has a 2 pin claw, while the m8r has only one pin, hence they say the reason for the loop restorer on the M8R. I also remember reading, but dont know where, that the 3 drive rings on the 18-5 were because the single ring gave trouble, dont know what, but Bolex made the drive into 3 rings, and if 18-5s were taken to the retailer, they would be modified free of charge. I bought mine from a "car boot sale" for £8, as new, and fitted with 3 drive rings. I have just received this morning 3 A/17 lamps, with vat and posting cost, at £18.14 each.
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j.hunter
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