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Author Topic: Editing
Eve Oval-Bruegger
Film Handler

Posts: 21
From: Zurich, Switzerland
Registered: Mar 2018

 - posted March 20, 2018 11:22 AM      Profile for Eve Oval-Bruegger   Email Eve Oval-Bruegger   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yep another question.. ;-)

I haven't thought so far ahead as editing (too much anyway).. what are all the things I need for when I'm ready to edit?? What are the different techniques etc??

Should I buy a vintage editor, or are there new ones that will do a better job??

As always, so many thoughts & questions :-)


[ March 20, 2018, 05:28 PM: Message edited by: Eve Oval-Bruegger ]

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Mike Spice
Master Film Handler

Posts: 421
From: none of your business
Registered: Jun 2017

 - posted March 20, 2018 02:52 PM      Profile for Mike Spice     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
you have two options.

Cement splice and tape splice.

Cement is tiresome and fiddly but very good.

Splice tape is quick and easy and easier to repair if it needs to change. You need the right edit block for tape splice, to line up the sprockets and get a good join.

Not easy to find splice tapes and the right splice block for that type of tape, these days.

I bought a load of splice tapes for my scanning work, and end up having to make the joins by eye, not easy.....

A film viewer/editor is a sensible choice, where you buy it from is down to budget and preference.

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Chip Gelmini
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1733
From: Brooksville, FL
Registered: Jun 2003

 - posted March 20, 2018 03:10 PM      Profile for Chip Gelmini     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Always remember the following

Acetate film will work with cement glue

Mylar or sometimes referred to as polyester requires tape splices to hold

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Bryan Chernick
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 654
From: Bothell, WA, USA
Registered: Mar 2010

 - posted March 20, 2018 04:27 PM      Profile for Bryan Chernick   Email Bryan Chernick   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
There are a lot of discussions on this forum about editors, a quick search will get you a lot of information. I have a nice Bolex editor but Vernon and Elmo are similar quality. The ones that handle both regular 8mm and Super 8 tend to have a larger viewing screen but there are smaller ones that are Regular 8mm only. Lots of editors and splicers are available on eBay in the US, probably the same where you are. You may also need some extra reels that are available from Wittner. I like to put my home movies on 400 foot reels.

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Luigi Castellitto
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 715
From: Campobasso, Italy
Registered: Jun 2013

 - posted March 20, 2018 07:54 PM      Profile for Luigi Castellitto   Email Luigi Castellitto   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Eve, all said all right things, the important thing is attention to the "rule" that cites Chip.
I recommend you edit film with editor+splicer and not scanning and doing it on the pc (or do both): it's a very fascinating part of film making, and a sufficient editor and splicer is very affordable.

The editor that you insert in photos are more than good.
The first is a double gauge model (8mm and Super 8), manufactured by many companies, Goko in the first place.
The second is a good editor ONLY for Normal 8. I had it, it has a small but bright screen, and space for big reels.
The important thing is the operating status.

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Maurice Leakey
Film God

Posts: 5895
From: Bristol. United Kingdom
Registered: Oct 2007

 - posted March 21, 2018 03:46 AM      Profile for Maurice Leakey   Email Maurice Leakey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
You said that you had ordered some Wittner Chrome 200D standard 8 reversal film.
I see that the Wittner web site says this is on a polyester base, therefore you cannot use cement to join this film stock.
Adhesive tape must be used. The best splicer is the CIR but is very difficult to find in standard 8 format, and even if found, can be very expensive.
The best thing to use is the Kodak Presstapes. There is a Kodak splicer for these, but with skill they probably could be used by hand.
American eBay is probably the best site to find a splicer for these tapes.


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Eve Oval-Bruegger
Film Handler

Posts: 21
From: Zurich, Switzerland
Registered: Mar 2018

 - posted March 21, 2018 03:38 PM      Profile for Eve Oval-Bruegger   Email Eve Oval-Bruegger   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
(The two photos are of editors for sale, sorry I should have explained them in my first message!)

Thanks guys for all your input, I really do take it seriously & even write a lot down for future reference! I have a useless memory, which only got worse since being pregnant, & worse again after giving birth haha.

So you are all very much appreciated :-)

I think there's no rush for me to get an editor just yet.. but certainly a few months down the line.

My Bolex D8L should arrive in the next few days! EEK!!

Ah another thing, someone mentioned to me (not on this forum) that I should test the projector with another film, not something I've shot myself, just in case it catches fire or basically just ruins my own personal work.
Would you agree? Should I just buy any old 8mm cheap movie online then?

Have a good evening, it's 21.37 here. Goodnight, Eve.

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Will Trenfield
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 506
From: Shrewsbury, Shropshire, UK
Registered: Mar 2016

 - posted March 21, 2018 05:24 PM      Profile for Will Trenfield   Email Will Trenfield   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yes, it's best to run a test film through a newly acquired projector to make sure everything is working properly. You wouldn't want to use one you've shot yourself. I use a short package movie. You can pick one up from eBay quite cheaply. As they are on polyester, you can then use the film to practice editing.

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