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Topic: Rewinding Films- A Question
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Barry Johnson
Master Film Handler
Posts: 358
From: United Kingdom
Registered: Jul 2003
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posted December 23, 2003 07:08 AM
Toutchy lot eh?! As a matter of interest I am a fully experienced film technician and have worked in the cinema business for thirty years or so and that is why my sarcastic reply was sent to a supposed 'expert' who clearly,through no fault of his own,is not. If however offence has been taken then so be it,I cannot undo that but I will address the substance of the thread on rewinding film. Be it 8,16,35 or even 70mm (and I have used them all),a very slight pressure against the rim of a GOOD reel-no nicks in it or whatever,and passed through the fingers held on the edges only,and exerting a slight tension will have your prints lasting forever,and giving a nice "Flange Bound" rewind as they used to say in the trade. To address the running lines appearing.Par for the course I'm afraid with Super 8 unless your projector and its self-threading mechanismis properly adjusted and scrupulously clean.This mechanism is a breeding ground for the Grimy Gremlins so they must be deterred at all costs.!!
-------------------- Standard8 rules!!
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Chip Gelmini
Phenomenal Film Handler
Posts: 1733
From: Brooksville, FL
Registered: Jun 2003
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posted December 23, 2003 08:28 AM
Although this was intended as a joke, it is an interesting discussion. As a former projectionist in theaters, I find slight pressure from a rewind bench with an adjustable brake lever on the rewind unit (left hand side) works well. No need to touch the flange of the reel with fingers. The Neumade Giant (2000 ft) and the Neumade X-3 (6000 ft) capacity hand crank rewinds (capacities shown as 35mm format only) both have a nice hand brake lever. Common is to drill a hole through this lever and stick and adjustable bolt through the bench top and through the handle with a wing nut. However, you can actually do it from the back side of the brake spring tension assenbly indise the casting. So in all due respect, drilling through the handle is, not actually a wrong way, but there is a better way to do it. Fit these rewinds with the super 8 brass adapters and you're ready to go. Order them with the 16mm shaft (35mm is 5/16 inch) square shaft and you can handle both formats easily. Order them with the 35mm 5/16 shaft and you could do all four formats with no problem, providing you had access to the films. That would be super 8 with brass adapters, 16mm that fit on the 5/16 shafts by adding a spacer block to the finger switch; 35mm directly on the 5/16 shaft; and stepping up to 70MM with the adapter for that size available through Neumade.
Chip
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Alan Rik
Film God
Posts: 2211
From: New York City, NY, USA
Registered: Jun 2003
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posted December 23, 2003 09:11 AM
Though I am out of the Film Lab business, I use to have to clean,prep, and rewind thousands and thousands of feet of film daily. We did archival work as well so i worked with 16mm, 35mm, Optical, Magnetic, basically everything under the sun. I was taught by my mentor that the best way to rewind a film was to put slight tension on the left reel, not so much to create a tight wind but a nice "pack". If it was left a little loose, just like one poster claimed, you could literally pull the head or the tail of the film and start scratching the film! And I always used white gloves that we got from Christies. Ah, the good ole days. Now I just use the rewind function on the GS but I still put a little tension with my left hand. Force of habit I suppose.
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