Posts: 2232
From: Sarpsborg, Norway
Registered: Nov 2012
posted October 11, 2013 07:23 AM
I have just gotten this sync box, but no manual. Anyone know of a manual or could tell me the procedure to use it correctly?
Sorry for the blur, the Epson isn't as good as my old HP scanner with this depth (the metal switch makes it tip to one side)
Posts: 2232
From: Sarpsborg, Norway
Registered: Nov 2012
posted October 12, 2013 03:04 AM
Thank you. Still don't know how the projector knows when to start ... I was thinking of moving sound from a couple of films. I have two of The Black Hole, one with decent picture and noisy sound, the other has good sound but is faded. Same with an old cartoon. I reckon first I need to record the sound off the good film, then get it back onto the other, but still not understanding how to make it start at the correct time. Does the sync box only keep it sync'ed once it's started and I still need to hit the right spot to record it?
Posts: 2232
From: Sarpsborg, Norway
Registered: Nov 2012
posted November 08, 2013 05:48 AM
Still don't get this ... Anyone re-recorded with one of these boxes that can tell me how it works?
Do I need to add a sync signal to the audio track (how does the audio know where to start?)
Do I still have to "hit" the right position manually? I have a few films in duplicates, where the picture is bad on one, audio is good and the other has good picture, but faults in audio. How can I move the audio from one to the other and keep it lip sync'ed?
posted November 08, 2013 07:00 PM
Vidar, this appears to be a "wild" sync scenario where the 25Hz pulse from this box and the 25fps frame rate of a DVD player are supposed to match without actually being shared in common. In the paragraph posted above, it states that "The first tone, L or R of the CD-player, releases the synchronous pulses generated in the appliance..." and I take that to mean that the pulses are sent out as soon as it detects audio on the input.
In theory this ought to work well, where in reality the accuracy of the quartz crystal master oscillators in use will determine if there is visible drift. In an entire feature there's almost bound to be some, though the GS-1200's speed "bump" buttons make it an easy fix.
In my experience it takes the GS-1200 two frames' delay to get up to speed.
So yes, optimally you need a fixed, matched point in the audio source and on your film print to get this to work accurately.