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Topic: EUMIG 810 D ..speed problems !

Niels Peter Buch
Film Handler

Posts: 76
From: Hvidovre, Copenhagen, Denmark
Registered: Jun 2013

posted July 08, 2015 12:42 PM

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Hello.
My Eumig 810 D (ser.nr. 5297389) cant keep up the pace.

Forward it takes a while to obtain right speed (both 18 and 24 fps)......and when I set to reverse ...It wont drive at all !
Mainshaft resistance seems normal to me !
The projector look as new in every part

Things done so far !

Discdrive grinded very lightly and wiped thoroughly with alcohol
Driveshaft wiped with alcohol
Lubricated (Molycote from Van eck shop)

Does anyone have an idea what is the matter ?

Kind regards

--------------------
Niels Peter Buch

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Tom Photiou
Film God

Posts: 4837
From: Plymouth U.K
Registered: Dec 2003

posted July 08, 2015 01:10 PM

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Neils, this was, for us, such a common problem. Under the warranty when it was new we eventually had three of these before we got a working one. We would put a film on and during projection it would slow down to almost stopping.
Nowadays it appears to be an easy fix, try this,
First with a very fine,(and I mean very find), piece of wet and dry paper,(use it dry), very lightly rub the two rubber wheels which the spinning cap hits when you go to forward or reverse play. Basically, you are removing the sheen off the rubber and getting it back to nice matt black finish. Then, what we do is use a good alcohol cleaning fluid, wrap a cotton cloth around your finger, get some cleaner on the cloth and with the motor spinning but not engaged clean the top spinning cap which makes contact with the rubber discs. Just ensure the rubber wheels are all clean, let it all dry and hopefully you should be ok. [Wink]

[Wink]

Let us know how you get on.
Although I see you have done this, just try again using the very fine wet and dry paper.

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Niels Peter Buch
Film Handler

Posts: 76
From: Hvidovre, Copenhagen, Denmark
Registered: Jun 2013

posted July 08, 2015 02:46 PM

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Hello Tom.
Job done !
Thank you very much for your advice.
Odd.....I have done this "repair" on my other Eumigs many times.
But this time it took a while to remove the "layer" on the drivedisc.

"What a great forum this is !!! " [Smile]

[Smile]

Kind regards

--------------------
Niels Peter Buch

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Tom Photiou
Film God

Posts: 4837
From: Plymouth U.K
Registered: Dec 2003

posted July 08, 2015 03:22 PM

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ideal

[Smile]

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Joseph Randall
Master Film Handler

Posts: 437
From: Wyckoff, NJ, USA
Registered: Jun 2015

posted July 08, 2015 03:43 PM

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I tried years ago with my 810D to revive the discs with regular sandpaper with no luck. Will wet and dry paper really make a difference in my case now that I have already sanded?

thanks

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Tom Photiou
Film God

Posts: 4837
From: Plymouth U.K
Registered: Dec 2003

posted July 09, 2015 03:35 PM

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Not a lot, it just makes a lot less mess I think.

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Joseph Randall
Master Film Handler

Posts: 437
From: Wyckoff, NJ, USA
Registered: Jun 2015

posted July 09, 2015 05:10 PM

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It's a shame, since for a 40+ year old machine everything else is in working order. (I'm the original owner.) I use it for Standard 8mm silents only now.

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frank arnstein
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 534
From: Gold Coast. Australia
Registered: Jan 2005

posted July 11, 2015 02:45 AM

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Hi Joseph,

If you have tried that treatment and it still failed, then go to plan B as now you have nothing to lose. Only consider plan B if all attempts at plan A have failed.

Plan B involves relocating the outer motor pivot mounting. It is adjustable and doing so may move the drive pinion to where it drives the discs Ok again.

There are 2 very tight mounting screws that need to be loosened. Then while its running forwards without film, slowly slide the mounting to adjust its position and then retighten. By trial and error you should be able to find the optimum spot for the pinion to drive the discs in both directions.

Good luck adjusting and don't touch any live wires back there.

dogtor frankarnstein

[Smile]

[Smile]

[Wink]

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Martin Jones
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1269
From: Thetford , Norfolk,England
Registered: May 2008

posted July 11, 2015 03:42 AM

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Frank's adjustment alters the verticality of the motor shaft, thus moving the drive ball on the top end of the shaft nearer to or further from the centre point between the discs. It can be effective in cases where forward is more reliable than reverse. or vice versa.....
BUT it also tilts the cooling fan in its housing below the motor, and too much movement will cause the fan to rub on the housing, giving both too much friction to the drive...... and a horrible noise!

--------------------
Retired TV Service Engineer
Ongoing interest in Telecine....

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Terry Sills
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1423
From: Weymouth,Dorset,England
Registered: Oct 2012

posted July 11, 2015 01:51 PM

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Joseph
If you try repositioning the motor mounts you may notice that the plastic that surrounds the bearing has deteriorated and is crumbling. I have found this to be the reason for your problem in a few of my Eumigs. If this is the case no amount of adjustment will prove effective. You will have to make a new mount for the bearing using something like Araldite or any similar resin and you need to get the bearing as close to central in the new mount as possible. When it hardens it will then be possible to adjust so that you get the correct traction between the spinning disc and the rubber coated flywheel. As Martin has said, it will still be a trial and test until you get it right. Quite fiddly but it does work.

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Ken Finch
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 543
From: Herne Bay, Kent. U.K.
Registered: Oct 2011

posted July 11, 2015 02:32 PM

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In addition to what has been stated, I found that the cap end of the motor spindle becomes polished through slipping on the disc and a little "roughening" with very fine wet and dry before wiping with alcohol also cures the problem. It worked with both my 810D and the Bolex clone. ken Finch.

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Barry Fritz
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1061
From: Burnsville, MN, USA
Registered: Dec 2009

posted July 12, 2015 05:42 PM

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I have done the sanding and cleaning as stated above, but then I used rubber roller rejuvenater also. It is widely available on line.

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Joseph Randall
Master Film Handler

Posts: 437
From: Wyckoff, NJ, USA
Registered: Jun 2015

posted July 13, 2015 01:30 PM

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Thanks all. I tried Frank's suggestion, and it worked. I had to tweak the speed a few times with the slider with a film running but I got it to stay at the correct pitch. Only problem is the rewind runs a bit slow and needs some coaxing to get going -- small price to pay.

I do have to say that I'm so used to my Elmo ST-1200 with the 150 watt lamp that the Eumig looks a bit dark in comparison. Also, Elmo has a 1.1 lens compared to my 1.2 in the Eumig. Steadier picture in the Elmo as well, but the Eumig makes a fine backup machine as all my other projectors are 16mm and Standard 8mm.

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Lee Mannering
Film God

Posts: 3216
From: The Projection Box
Registered: Nov 2006

posted July 16, 2015 12:43 AM

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Tom you are getting as bad as me for hitting the wrong keys (and I mean very find) [Cool]

[Cool]

OK nobody can get as bad as me...

Re the Eumig. After the sanding thing I always clean the metal drive wheel with a clean cloth and some Isopropanol to get good clean traction.

Enjoy the Eumig!

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Tom Photiou
Film God

Posts: 4837
From: Plymouth U.K
Registered: Dec 2003

posted July 16, 2015 12:16 PM

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[Big Grin]

oops

[Big Grin]

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Peter van den Oetelaar
Junior
Posts: 5
From: Valkenswaard, The Netherlands
Registered: Sep 2015

posted September 19, 2015 11:31 PM

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Thanks. This topic helped me a lot in solving this problem with my Eumig 820 Sonomatic HQS..

It now runs much better, albeit higher speeds sometimes need a little help to get started. After that it takes a little while the speed increases..

Also 18 and 24 are better than the in between speeds... Switching between 18 and 24 quickly doesn't slow down the projector much, but the in between speeds are noticeably slower and take time to speed up. ( Which they eventually do )...

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