8mm Forum: Hot running ST1200D

This is topic Hot running ST1200D in forum 8mm Forum at 8mm Forum.

To visit this topic, use this URL:
https://8mmforum.film-tech.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=000681

Posted by David Roberts (Member # 197) on August 15, 2004, 04:04 AM:

My ST1200d seems to get hottre in use than I think it should.The hinge down side cover gets almost too hot to touch around the gate area and the lens sticks in the mount and cannot be moved until the lens mount has cooled down!!!
The blower seems to work OK'
Has any kind person any ideas please.

David

Posted by Mark Todd (Member # 96) on August 15, 2004, 05:48 AM:

Wow it does sound hot.
Have you tried another bulb as you can get the odd faulty one.
Also is it a xenovaron, you could try an ordianry 232 bulb that should help.
I think you can get the odd bulb that sort of malafuncions as it were. But with Elmos fanning the bulb you are usually OK.
Is the heat glass still in place in the lamp housing, some people take that out to up the light very slightly but personally I always would leave it in.
Sounds as if it may be out, if the two halves of the heat glass are missing maybe someone has a scraper they could take the glass out for you. The glass is in the 1200`s and the sc18 600 foot macines and the SC30`s.
At least with that in it should help a lot.
Good luck.
Best Mark.

Posted by Chris Quinn (Member # 129) on August 15, 2004, 07:31 AM:

Hi David.
The glass in front of the lamp will not make a lot of difference, as mainly for still frame, i would check the belts first in case one is slipping, in any case it's a good idea to replace the belt set as a matter of course if not done before.

Chris.

Posted by Kevin Faulkner (Member # 6) on August 16, 2004, 05:36 PM:

The fan is on the main drive motor so if the machine is running at the correct speed then the fan is running correctly.
Make sure that the vents etc in the back case are not blocked with any dust build up.
The only thing that I can think of which would make the side cover very hot is if the black internal lamp cover is not in place or incorrectly installed. Yes with the heat glass removed you would get some increase in heat round the shutter and gate area but not to the point where the lens would be sticking due to expansion.
Yes try another lamp but I think that if a lamp were that faulty it would have blown by now.
Let us know what you find. Did you have this machine from new or have you bought it second hand?

Kev.

Posted by David Roberts (Member # 197) on August 17, 2004, 01:51 PM:

Gentleman.
Thanks for your help and sujjestions.The heat glass is missing from the internal lamp cover.The machine runs at the correct speed and was purchased S-H recently.
It is a magnetic only version ie, no optical sound and I dont think this was ever imported officialy. In fact,based on the location of main fuse inside rear cover,the version I have is Scandinavian.
Aside from running hot,it performs very well except I cant focus it after about 10 minutes,because the lens holder gets hot,expands and then the lens sticks!
I have replaced lamp and problem still there.
Regards and thanks,
David.

Posted by Mark Todd (Member # 96) on August 17, 2004, 02:23 PM:

Hi is it set to 240 volts or is it a fixed 220 volt or similar, that could be pumping more juice in to the bulb.
Is it Ok on the lower setting then???
Getting some glass in would definately help at least lower the heat going forwards to the gate etc but you need to get it sorted as well.
Is it a xenophot bulb as an ordinary 150 watt non xenophot job would be a lot cooler for now to keep you running.
Ian from perrys did have a few elmo bits a while ago so may have a lamp cover with the glass in he can spare, worth a try.
Good luck best Mark.

Posted by Kevin Faulkner (Member # 6) on August 17, 2004, 03:02 PM:

Hi David,
Remove the rear cover of the machine. There are 3 connection on the mains transformer marked P1, P2 & P3. P1 = 220V, P2 = 230V & P3 = 240V. There will probably be a wire connected to P1. Unsolder it and move it to P3. This will certainly stop the lamp from being over-run and will help it all to run a little cooler as well as extend the lamp life.
The exception to all the above is if the machine is a multi voltage unit (100 - 240V). If this is the case you will see a round voltage selector which you will be able to adjust to 240V by simply pulling the centre out and then installing it again with the 240V legend showing through the cutout. All will be obvious when you remove the back off the machine. I wouldnt worry too much about the lack of heat glass as these machines run fairly well without them. It becomes more important if you use the machine in still mode or run a lot of film at the silent 18FPS speed. A lot of people remove the heat glass to give slightly more light output with no probs at all. I certainly have done and with the xenophot lamps.

Kev.

Posted by David Roberts (Member # 197) on August 21, 2004, 12:44 PM:

Kev
The wire on the transformer was on P1 so Ive moved it to P3 as you advised. Guess what,it still gets too hot and stops the lens from moving!
I rearly thought the problem was solved after changing the voltage but it still doesnt want to cooperate!
I do appreciate your help,and everyone else who replied.

David

UBB.classic^TM 6.3.1.2