8mm Forum: Rewind Problem

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Posted by Dan Lail (Member # 18) on November 06, 2004, 09:47 PM:

I put a new set of belts on an St-1200. They are square belts and work great except when I rewind a reel about three fourths of the way through it slows to a stop. I think the tension of the big rewind belt may be the problem. I've adjusted the gears to make snug contact in the rewind mode. Any ideas as to what to do. [Confused]

Posted by Chip Gelmini (Member # 44) on November 06, 2004, 10:37 PM:

There is a Dr Demento song about the Starship Enterprise that answers your problem perfectly. The lyrics went something like, (chorus) "always going forward because they can never find reverse"

Well Dan you have found reverse but it doesn't seem to go that well.

As these projectors are used very little for many years, and for most of the time when they are used they go forward mode only, problems like this are not surprising.

May I suggest as I run my films, your next investment should be a pair of hand crank rewinds. Get a pair of 16mm or even 35, and get the brass adapters that easily convert to super 8 from either format. Plan to spend about $200.00 or more to do this. You'll be glad you did.

As for the machine adjutsment...use it as is, but no rewinding. Or maybe find someone who can fix it for you at a good price. I assume that you are aware of the high speed rewind lever above the lens (slight yellow/orange) that gives it alitle torque in reverse mode. If you are not using that lever then it would certainly slow down near the finish of rewind. If you are using the lever and you are having a slowing down, then yes, you would need repair.

Maybe this isn't what you wanted to hear me say, but I grew up a projectionist. Long before I became one as a trade, I helped out in the booth at my Aunt's theater. I was probably 8 to 13 years old. I did most rewinding for Bill the projectionist, and it was all by hand.

Chip Gelmini

Posted by Jean-Marc Toussaint (Member # 270) on November 07, 2004, 03:53 AM:

Chip speaks the voice of reason.
I experienced the same problem on my 708 some years ago, and came to the same conclusion. If the projector projects, well, let's not force it into doing something else.
So I converted an old 8mm rewind (bought at a flee market for $5) using these little red plastic S8 adaptors that were included with the Posso spools. Manual rewinding also gives you a good opportunity to check the splices.
I later invested into a pair of 16mm rewind arms from Neumade, with brass S8 adaptors. Splendid equipment. Never regretted my $200. Since you're in the US, you can buy these from Larry Urbanski .

(Geez, Chip, not that many people know "Startrekking accross the universe", I love that song...)

Posted by Kevin Faulkner (Member # 6) on November 07, 2004, 12:27 PM:

Good advice form you guys but why not sort the problem. Its probably due to some wear in the cork pad in the slipping clutch.
Remove the back cover of the machine and behind the rewind (front) arm you will see a cog (lower one) with a spring pushing against it.
Slacken of the hex nut which holds the colar against the spring and push the colar in a little further. Re tighten the screw and check the results. Further adjustments may need to be tried to get it to comfortably rewind a full 1200ft full spool of film.

Kev.

Posted by Chip Gelmini (Member # 44) on November 07, 2004, 02:00 PM:

Speaking of Neumade Brass adapters on their OWN hand crank Neumade rewinds, Taylor reels that have warped hubs can actually be fixed. Simply determine where the warp is, then pull it back with your fingers on one side and the palm of your hand on the other side of the hub. Gently, and after a few quick tries, you'll see a difference. I also go one step further. Once I have located the one key slot taht permits the reel to rotate with the least amount of warp, I mark a small line with a red magic marker. Everytime this reel goes on the projector shaft...align the shaft key to the red line. A reel that turns perfectly straight (or as perfect as possible) will gain more stable, and better sound playback.

As example: The warp comes to you at 3pm and away from you at 9pm. With the palm of your hand at 9pm (on the hub) and your fingers on the flange at 3pm very carefully push and pull at the same time. And you only want to move the steel a little tiny bit. Then give a few spins on the shaft to see how it is.

Do not by any means attempt this on a machine. Please use the Neumade hand crank rewinds with the brass adapters only. The heavy machined bearings, bushings and castings of the system combined will support the force and shafts or other parts will NOT break.

Chip G

Posted by Dan Lail (Member # 18) on November 07, 2004, 11:37 PM:

Kev, I knew you would come through. I know the gog well, but never thought of checking the clutch tension. Tnis is a beautiful machine I just picked up. I don't think it got much use. All the belts were literally turned to tar from sitting I assume in a hot environment(or maybe a nuclear reactor, you never know). This is the one that had the lamp problem that you also solved for me when you suggested checking the wire connections. I have three other Elmos and they all rewind like champs including my other ST-1200. [Wink]

Thanks Chip & Jean-Marc. I already have a set of 16mm rewinds and adaptors, but I just don't want to walk to another room to hand rewind. I have a repair room away from the screening room. [Smile]

This forum is such a cool place! [Cool]

Posted by Kevin Faulkner (Member # 6) on November 09, 2004, 03:48 PM:

Ah yes I remember the lamp problem well. Lets hope the above advice sorts this problem for you as well.

Lets us know the outcome, Kev.

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