8mm Forum: Forum newbie with eumig 905 problem.

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Posted by Knut Nordahl (Member # 518) on December 18, 2005, 04:17 AM:

Greetings!
I have been collecting, repairing and using old super 8 cameras for a couple of years now. I rediscovered this hobby after a break-in to my apartment where my mother's old Bauer C1 was stolen, and for insurance purposes I had to find the value of such cameras. Since then cameras and projectors have accumulated somehow...

The latest "thing" I came across was a huge cardboard box of excerpts and films of known and unknown (to me) 200 ft sound super 8. 3x400 "Dressed to kill", 3x400 "The towering Inferno"
3X400 "The Meteor", "Alien", "Singing in the rain" and a ton of others. "Cool, more to accumulate, I thought", I just didn't know this was as addictive as well...

Anyway, I got this Eumig 905, which I have cleaned, but there is one thing. According to the user guide, you can take the lens out and clean it. So I did. I can not see that anything on the focus button is broken, but now I am not able to get the focus to work again. I have to focus by pushing and pulling the lens in and out.
The focus system is the button itself, and a piece of metal sheet that acts like a "spring". Have I lost one part?

Any help would be appreciated.

Posted by Paul Adsett (Member # 25) on December 18, 2005, 10:40 AM:

Sounds like the pin on the side of the lens barrell is not engaging with the cam slot on the focus knob. There is a knack in removing and replacing the lens on the Eumig 900's, and if you did not follow the instructions in the manual you may have broken off the little plastic pin on the lens barrell. This is what you must do:

To remove the lens:
Turn the focussing knob anti clockwise as far as it will go, then press the lens inward (towards the film gate). Continue turning the focussing knob anti clockwise until you can gently pull the lens out.

To replace the lens:
Turn the focussing knob fully anti cloxwise.
Check that the engagement pin on the side of the lens barrell is facing you. Pull slightly outward on the focussing knob,and slide the lens fully back in, pushing against the spring force in the lens mount. Now turn the focussing knob clockwise and the pin should engage the cam slot in the focussing knob. You may have to push and pull the lens slightly to get it to engage, but do not force it as you might break the plastic pin off.
Sounds complicated, but once you have done it you will have no further problems.

Posted by Kevin Faulkner (Member # 6) on December 18, 2005, 11:33 AM:

And welcome to the forun Knut. Hope you enjoy using it. There's many knowlegeable people on here who should be able to help you with most problems and hopefully you will have an input too.

Kev [Smile]

Posted by Knut Nordahl (Member # 518) on December 18, 2005, 01:04 PM:

That puts me on the right track. Thanks. There is no pin on my lens barrel, and I can se the spot where it is supposed to be. I guess I can glue on a new one. Thanks.
I will gladly contribute with input to the forum, for a while now I have been using a sankyo dualux and condenser lens set-up for transferring my own films. Results are fair enough, so I know a little about that. Pictures: http://www.filmshooting.com/scripts/gallery/albums/forum3/statue.jpg
http://www.filmshooting.com/scripts/gallery/albums/forum3/fasade.jpg

And also as I mentioned I have some knowledge about cameras.

Posted by Jean-Marc Toussaint (Member # 270) on December 19, 2005, 12:42 AM:

Hello Knut and welcome to the Forum.

These pictures are quite impressive. Please, do tell us more about your transfer set-up.

You won't have any problem fixing the pin on your lens. But never ever forget to keep your 905 cleaned and lubed. When these coaxial machines go wrong, they really go wrong and they can be extremely nasty to films.

JM

Posted by Knut Nordahl (Member # 518) on December 19, 2005, 01:45 AM:

Hi Jean-Marc.
Thank you. I have been active at the forum on filmshooting.com for some time now, and as some of you might know many people there have build their own version of the “Workprinter”. On onsuper8.org you’ll find and example of a Eumig 610D capturing frame by frame to a computer. I used a Sankyo Dualux 1000. What I did was simply remove the 8v\50 watt bulb. The replacement light source is from a LED flashlight. Then I took out the small piece of glass that sits in front of the gate and installed a diffuse piece of plastic from a crappy “telescreen”-unit. Removing the back of the projector allows access to the unit that controls the speed. This unit is “blocked” or locked if you will, with two screws. I unscrewed them, and that allows me to set the speed to extremely slow if I want. At the moment I use the largest condenser lens I could get. It’s about 12 cm 2x. My DV has 12 optical, and I also got a Zeiss mirror (“first surface”). The set-up is the same as those transfer boxes you see cheap on ebay, but as there is no screen there is no hot-spot an no flicker. And the quality is much, much better. I learned this set-up on the filmshooting.com forum, where the father of the workprinter , Roger Evans also contributes, so he deserves the credit.

The lens is now fixed, and working. So again thank you.
What do you guys here use to clean and lube the projector? I have read Pledge somewhere, or is that a no-no?

Knut.

Posted by Paul Adsett (Member # 25) on December 19, 2005, 09:42 AM:

Knut,
Pledge or Favour furniture polish spray is excellent for cleaning the film path, I have been using it for 25 years on my projectors with no ill effects. I spray it onto long cotton double ended swabs (available from Radio Shack as 'cleaning sticks') and wipe the film guide channels, rollers, sprockets, and gate with it. The polish picks up any loose oxide dust from the sound track stripe, and leaves a polished surface for the next reel of film. Just don't use it on the stainless steel sound capstan and rubber pressure roller, these must be wiped with alcohol. After cleaning , blow the whole film path and gate areas with a can of pressurized air. Of course a big part of keeping your projector clean is keeping your films clean. Lubricated films will run thru the projector much better, will give you much better sound quality, and will not leave a lot of oxide dust behind in the machine. What lubricant do I use? Well being a skeptic about the safety of commercial film cleaners I long ago decided to use only a household product. I have found that rewinding the films through 'ArmorAll Protectant Wipes' does a pretty good job of cleaning and lubricating the film. In fact I had several old films which the projector could bairly handle, lots of noise, unsteadiness etc, but after about 2 or 3 rewinds through the ArnorAll wipes these films now run beautifully smooth. But film lubricants and cleaners are a very controversial subject on this forum ( I can here Tony Millman saying "Oh no, not again"), so the best advice is probably use what works for you.

Posted by Jean-Marc Toussaint (Member # 270) on December 20, 2005, 03:17 AM:

Knut, thanks for the link. This is fantastic, and building a similar device is very tempting.

Posted by Knut Nordahl (Member # 518) on December 20, 2005, 05:01 AM:

'ArmorAll Protectant Wipes' is a cool tip Paul. I’ll keep that in mind.

Quote, Jean-Marc:
“…. and building a similar device is very tempting.”

Yes, this method is not that difficult provided you have time to do it and the results are great! [Smile]

Posted by Tony Milman (Member # 7) on December 20, 2005, 01:53 PM:

Knut

Howdy.

Paul

Oh no not again [Big Grin]

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