8mm Forum: Wanted: Long Play system.

This is topic Wanted: Long Play system. in forum 8mm equipment for sale/trade at 8mm Forum.

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Posted by Alan Gouger (Member # 31) on August 14, 2015, 01:40 PM:

There were a few different models I will consider all. Thank you [Smile]

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on August 14, 2015, 02:30 PM:

They are fantastic Alan. By giving the reels plenty of free space, they run so much smoother and quieter than a projector with the big reel arms built in.

I hope you find one soon pal!
I shall keep a look out at my end for you Alan, should I find one, you will be the first to know. [Wink]

2200ft and still room for even bigger!

[ August 14, 2015, 05:12 PM: Message edited by: Andrew Woodcock ]

Posted by Dominique De Bast (Member # 3798) on August 14, 2015, 02:37 PM:

There is one model of long play unit still being manufactured in Spain but that will sadly be soon no longer so as the manufacturer is moving in another (not film related) business. The same source still provides large spools but I don't know until when.

Posted by Tom Photiou (Member # 130) on August 14, 2015, 04:42 PM:

what sort of price would one expect to pay for one of these?
Are there different ones for different model projectors or are they pretty much universal?

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on August 14, 2015, 05:00 PM:

The Spondon type shown here was designed to be used for both 16mm and 8mm machines. It uses adaptors like those sold by Edwin for Super 8mm machines.

I have to say, if you were designing one of these purpose built to work perfectly for either a Eumig S938 or a Bauer Studio Line machine, then you could not do it any better!

The Price now Tom, is purely down to what one person is prepared to pay for one of these over and above the next man as Paul Browning will testify who purchased one of these in recent times.

They fit perfectly for both machines sat on it's base board and as said, no real screach, no motor noise once film is on it.
They run totally silently as a reel to reel tape deck does.

Just perfect for these already quiet smooth operators.

Posted by Dominique De Bast (Member # 3798) on August 15, 2015, 03:00 AM:

The super 8 Spanish system (which is different from the one Andrew shows on his picture) is sold 210 €, if that can help giving you an idea of price.

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on August 15, 2015, 03:53 AM:

That's a decent price Dominique for one of these brand spanking new IMHO.

Posted by Paul Browning (Member # 2715) on August 15, 2015, 04:35 AM:

One of those Spanish units sold on ebay quite recently and went for very little money, I think 50.00 euro's. It looked well made too, slightly different design to the spondon unit with the reels one above the other. My unit is an earlier version to Andrews, top half has the control box and motor combined. I don't think it would be that difficult to make one, motor chip is still available and a small amount of components inside on a bread board, I think the company who made the motor are still around too, you would just have to work out which motor spondon used, all the other bits could be sourced from old projector bits if you had a couple of scrap ones, or from the shows maybe. You would expect to pay at least £250.00 for a stand alone unit, although I payed more because it came with two features and some spare reels.

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on August 15, 2015, 04:43 AM:

I would be interested to find out who the motor company is Paul that supplied Spondon with their grey motor/ gearbox combo.

I purchased an as near as possible power/ratio spare from China but come the day I would need to get a faceplate adaptor manufactured to allow it to be bolted to the frame in the manner my existing one does.

It would be far easier for me if I could find an identical spare motor/ gearbox for if ever required.

The control circuit board on mine is inside the aluminium square box section. the only component on the outside of the frame is the motor/gearbox itself and 1 inch of wiring stuck down with silicone rubber as per manufacture.

Posted by Kevin Clark (Member # 211) on August 15, 2015, 04:50 AM:

The motors were supplied to Spondon from RS Radio Spares. I have a new boxed one here somewhere although you will find Spondon used a few different versions over the years. I'm sure I saw them still for sale in a Maplins catalogue not long ago.

I'll have a look for it today then post a picture.

Kevin

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on August 15, 2015, 04:54 AM:

As ever Kevin, that would be fantastic thanks! [Wink]

Any that look like this Kevin?
http://8mmforum.film-tech.com/cgi-bin/showpic.cgi?dir=uploads0503&file=SAM_2597.JPG

Posted by Paul Browning (Member # 2715) on August 15, 2015, 05:17 AM:

sales@premotec.com, hello Andrew, here's the company that make those motors. As you know all the details on the motor were removed, so a little work is needed to get the technical stuff, but they will know if you supply detail to them, perhaps Kevin's motor complete and in the box would help.

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on August 15, 2015, 06:04 AM:

Brilliant! Thanks a million Paul!! [Smile]

Yep, if Kevin's is one of these, and he doesn't want to keep it for his own needs, then I'm his customer on this one.

Posted by Kevin Clark (Member # 211) on August 15, 2015, 07:12 AM:

Hello Andrew & Paul

My motor is different to the one you have but I will still post a picture later - probably best to start a new thread in the 8mm section titled something like 'DIY Longplay Unit components' as Alan may not be happy with us turning his post into a DIY techy zone rather than its original purpose!

Your motor looks exactly like this one from RS Components UK:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/dc-geared-motors/0440082/

Kevin

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on August 15, 2015, 08:01 AM:

That's the one Kevin! Thanks for that.

Now we have an original motor source, Paul's comments of copying the design of my spondon appear quite feasible if anyone can replicate the circuit boards.

Probably would cost around £100 to £150 to make including plastic end caps, motor couplings and machined spindles etc.

Wow, just noticed the controller for these for £11.71 on the same RS page! Even better!!

Have to see how much Edwin could 3D print us some hubs for?

As you say,best we start a new post and keep this for Alan.

Posted by Alan Gouger (Member # 31) on August 15, 2015, 06:41 PM:

Kevin no need to start a new thread we can keep this one going there is good info here. Does anyone have a link or contact to the company in Spain selling the new model maybe I can catch them before going out of business.
Andrew thanks for posting that picture, what a sweet setup:)

Thanks All!!

Posted by Dominique De Bast (Member # 3798) on August 15, 2015, 11:25 PM:

Alan, you can try in English : taller@juliocastells.com Postal address : Julio Castelles calle Ferlandina, 20 • 08001 - BARCELONA. Tel. 933 02 56 92 •

Posted by Mike Newell (Member # 23) on August 16, 2015, 08:55 AM:

Tom

Spondon long play units turn from time to time. Your best bet is to ask Ian O 'Reilly, Barry Attwood or Paul Foster. They would buy in collections and the units could come as part of the equipment pile.I bought mine for £70 but tended to find it troublesome to set up for one feature when the rest of the collection was on smaller reels. It does tend to put a fair amount of pressure on one projector for a two hour continuous play. If a bulb or mechanical issue is going to occur it will be when you are using the sponson.

Posted by Kevin Clark (Member # 211) on August 16, 2015, 09:12 AM:

OK Alan I'll keep the techy stuff in this thread as requested.

I don't own a Spondon now as I use my Elf / Eiki 16mm Long Play Unit for all my 16mm and Super 8 feature shows.

I've never experienced any issues with the projectors I've used with the Spondon due to long running times - models I've used them with include Braun Visacustic 1000 & 2000, Elmo ST600 ST1200HD and GS1200. One thing I would recommend is using a film cleaner such as Roy Neil's superb Film-O-Clean system especially for runs over 2400ft as this will prevent any shedding building up in the gate.

The spare motor I have is pictured below - usable with a 12vdc supply to produce 40 rpm or a lower voltage via a vr pot to produce lower rpm. Other electronics will be required as per the Spondon circuit board to allow for torque adjustment etc.

Kevin

Posted by Alan Gouger (Member # 31) on August 16, 2015, 10:47 AM:

Dominique email fired off, thank you!!!

Mike thanks for pointing out the mechanical alerts:)

Kevin do you use adapters to convert to S8 reels? Good idea!

Thx

Edit:

I have a technical question for everyone thanks to Kevins post regarding speed control. Odds are greater I might find a unit sourced from over seas that operates on 220v/50hz
Most of my projectors are from the UK I run a voltage converter and set the projector to 18fps which equals perfect 24fps speed.

Seeing as there is no easy way to convert HZ would a 220v full play system work in the US if using just a voltage converter. Running at 60hz will speed up the unit but maybe not enough to hurt anything. Can the clutch on the take up be adjusted on these or is there a speed control or maybe it will fine without one the speed difference will not be enough to hurt anything. Thoughts?

Thank you.

Posted by Paul Browning (Member # 2715) on August 16, 2015, 11:49 AM:

Hello Alan, the spondon unit, runs a motor control circuit, with a variable speed control, like a volume control, to turn up or down on the speed. Very simple circuit with a few components inside, If you did manage to find one it would be a matter of getting a step down transformer from your voltage to that of the motor, speed is then a bit of trial and error really, but not that difficult to overcome.

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on August 16, 2015, 12:43 PM:

Alan, just to assure you with the speed /potential torque issues on these, they need to be set correctly at the beginning of whatever reel you load.

Obviously 1200ft reels need a lot less turn of the potentiometer than the 2200ft ones, but it really is easy to find the correct speed / torque for each reel loaded on one of these.

It's a great tool to have for alternative long play projector besides the obvious three.

Posted by Alessandro Pavoni (Member # 1739) on August 16, 2015, 01:04 PM:

Hi all, I had one like Andrew, It was very good but I sold it. I regred having sold.
There is one on ebay but I don't know the seller.
http://www.ebay.de/itm/MOTOR-FILMUMSPULER-SPULTURM-FILMUMROLLER-FUR-RIESEN-SUPER-8-FILMSPULEN-/121726216611?hash=item1c5772a9a3

Posted by Kevin Clark (Member # 211) on August 16, 2015, 01:32 PM:

Alan, yes I use adapters to fit Super 8 hubs to the Elf 16mm Long Play unit - probably the only weak point in my set up as the adapters are the usual small plastic super 8 to regular 8mm adapters found on any dual 8 reel or projector. Roy sells super 8 metal converters for use with 16mm shaft rewinders so I should invest in a pair of those really.

When I had a Spondon I used to set the torque pot by fitting my full showreel on the driven arm first and adjust the pot so the reel just about started to turn - then I put the full spool on the feed arm and an identical empty take up spool on the take up arm and off you go.

Kevin

Posted by Alan Gouger (Member # 31) on August 16, 2015, 03:00 PM:

Alessandro thanks for the link, sadly his sale says no US shipping other wise I would secure it I have seen this model in previous posts and like that design.
Wow looks like someone bought it while I was posting, it is no longer avail.

Andrew & Kevin thanks for letting me know these have an adjustment to fine tune the speed. I should be all set with a Eropean model using a voltage converter.

Posted by Steven J Kirk (Member # 1135) on August 16, 2015, 07:08 PM:

Anyone got a spare reel clamp for 16mm like the one in that last eBay listing? Screw thread. I have a mismatched pair. Need just the one but would buy a pair. PM me if poss.

Posted by Kevin Clark (Member # 211) on August 17, 2015, 03:50 AM:

Hello Steven

What you need is a Scallop Knob similar to these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281759348557?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Obviously your screw thread may well not be M5 and most likely not even metric but at least you know what to ask for either online or in hardware stores.

Also Alan - from memory my Spondon had two switches and a variable pot - one switch for motor on/off, one for normal play or rewind (rewind mode bypasses the torque circuit) and then the variable torque pot. So when set up correctly it was very film kind - only usable with two sprocket projectors though as the extra film supply load would cause film perforation damage if used with single sprocket machines like the Eumig 926 or Agfa Sonnectors etc.

The rewind mode was never up to much anyway(too slow and wearing on the motor) so I used Elmo 1200ft rewinds which surprisingly can accommodate Beaulieu 2200ft spools and Fumeo 2400ft spools.

Kevin

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on August 17, 2015, 04:20 AM:

Hello Steven, not quite sure which part you are requiring, can you post a photograph please? I have a spare reel knob that secures the reel to the hub if that is what is needed?

I, like Kevin,and unlike Mike, have never found there to be any issues using the Spondon Long Play Unit with either the S938 or T610.
I tried once using it with an ST1200 and for whetever reason,it didn't seem to like it. I found it induced even greater instability around the lower loop,capstan roller and dancer mechanism than there is already so I only tried it the once.

With regard to Alan quizzing the difference between UK and US voltages and mains frequencies with these, it won't make any difference Alan.
The unit runs from a 220v to 12v D.C. adapter on these so you would just need to find an equivalent 110v 60Hz A.C. / 12v (60VA) D.C. adaptor if you purchased one from the UK for example.

Both of the above mentioned machines are happy to run all day long in my experience using one of these. If anything the projector gets an easier ride of things as it is only driving the film through the machine and the motor receives less of a load by the Spondon doing the take up work.

The lamp connector on my Bauer machines is the identical same high quality ones found in a Beaulieu machine that are designed to run with this spool size as also are the magnetic heads.

I use filmguard on all my magnetic prints and in doing so I haven't experienced any unusual amounts of build up or debris after projecting the maximum I ever do in one run, which is 2200ft.

For the home environment, I don't believe this system can be surpassed given the manner in which it runs. So very smooth and quiet as well as delicate film handling throughout.

[ August 18, 2015, 03:50 AM: Message edited by: Andrew Woodcock ]

Posted by Steven J Kirk (Member # 1135) on August 17, 2015, 05:04 AM:

Kevin, super thanks for that link. At least I know what to call what I'm looking for. I'll have to measure what the thread actually is. Thanks!

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on August 17, 2015, 05:09 AM:

Yes, I have a spare of these. I shall post a photo later. Hopefully it will be correct for your machine Steven.

I shall check the thread on it also, but I am fairly sure it is M5 or M6.

Here they are Steven. They are M6, same as my Spondon originals and the same high quality with their hard gloss plastic finish and quality Brass inserts.

The only difference between the two spares I have and the originals, is the originals have 4 scallops and the spares have 5.

You can have one of these gratis Steven if it is of any use to you.

[ August 17, 2015, 06:45 AM: Message edited by: Andrew Woodcock ]

Posted by Steven J Kirk (Member # 1135) on August 17, 2015, 01:52 PM:

Thanks for the kind offer Andrew! I have a mismatched pair but neither of mine are like the ones you show. Did you mean the pair shown with five 'petals' are spare to you?

Hold the press, there are quite a few on eBay, let me have a look and check out the measurements! I'll let you know if I need them, Andrew! Trying to get two the same. Perfectionism! [Roll Eyes]

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on August 17, 2015, 02:25 PM:

Yes the pair of these are spares.

I was going to hold one back just in case anything happened to either of the ones on the unit Steven.

However, if you require a matched pair, then you can take both. One has a very slight chip to one of the insides of the plastic "petals" but this is purely only of cosmetic note and both will work perfectly for you Steven.

Keep me posted Steven whether or not you want them.

Posted by Steven J Kirk (Member # 1135) on August 17, 2015, 03:40 PM:

Hang on to them, Andrew. Thanks again for the offer. I have realised that what I need ( which is for my Elmo pedestal 16mm ) needs to have the hole right through rather than be 'capped off' like the ones you show. No worry, there are in fact a lot of variants of this kind of thing on eBay and I'm sure in hardware stores. I'll find a nice pair in time. The thread seems to be M8. The knob diameter is 55mm so quite large. They are to hold on the 6,000ft reels.

This is close to it:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M8-Through-Thread-Knob-Han d-Wheel-4-Pack-/180792739709?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a1816477d

Finding just the right thing is all part of the hobby!

[ August 18, 2015, 07:24 AM: Message edited by: Steven J Kirk ]

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on August 17, 2015, 04:02 PM:

Very True Steven! Hope you get fixed up soon pal with your exact requirements. [Wink]

As you say, you need a much larger type of these for securing those huge reels!

Posted by Dominique De Bast (Member # 3798) on August 23, 2015, 05:22 PM:

Here is an example of a LP system : http://www.ebay.de/itm/MOTOR-FILMUMSPULER-SPULTURM-FILMUMROLLER-FUR-RIESEN-SUPER-8-FILMSPULEN/121733902554?_trksid=p2047675.c100012.m1985&_trkparms=aid%3D444000%26algo%3DSOI.DEFAUL T%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140221143856%26meid%3D2ac12a69f9264dc193343b14d1b64ae3%26pid%3D100012%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D121732128544

Posted by Alan Gouger (Member # 31) on August 24, 2015, 01:38 AM:

Dominique thanks for pointing that out. I used a translator and looks like they are not interested in shipping to the US, shame I would have jumped on this.
I could contact the seller but its difficult to work in another language.

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on August 24, 2015, 01:49 AM:

just use a translator like Bing or Google to first put your enquiry into the sellers language Alan.

I have used this method many times when writing to German sellers.
Particularly useful also when something arrives that isn't as described. Stops all that business of the seller claiming they don't understand your complaint!

I always write in the sellers language nowadays for any query. If the replies come back in anything other than English, then I just translate it myself at my end.

By writing in the sellers own native language, I think there is also a far greater chance of getting them to sell to you if you are in a location ordinarily they will not post to.

Posted by Dominique De Bast (Member # 3798) on August 24, 2015, 03:21 AM:

Alan, I bought something yesterday night from this German seller. Although it was written that there could not be shipping to Belgium, I was surprised to see that on the final EBay sale page the shipping costs for Belgium appeared. So, the seller may ship to the US but of course I cannot speak for him or even advise to deal with someone I don't know yet. Be aware that the shipping may be expensive to your country so it is Wise to contact the seller first. You have to pay by bank transfert, which may also be expensive from the US (from Belgium to Germany, there is no fee as this is within the EC). Andrew's advise about the transaltor is Wise. You will notice that a translation made by a machine is often funny, sometimes hard to understand but it will give you a good idea of what the text contents. If you decide to write to the seller in German, I would advise you to use short sentences to make it easier for the translator you will use. It may be a good idea to ad the original text in English at the end of the German one.

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on August 24, 2015, 03:31 AM:

yep I agree entirely Dominique. Always wise to send your original English written message alongside your translated one, just to be crystal and that there can be no misunderstanding!

It's amazing just how many of our oversees collectors can understand and answer really well any question you put to them in English whilst you are a potential customer, yet suddenly their complete lack of understanding of the English language causes no end of misunderstanding once the unsatisfactory purchase does not marry up with their description!

Posted by Steven J Kirk (Member # 1135) on August 25, 2015, 08:50 AM:

I ordered these as reel clamps. I'll post the results when I get them. They will need a spacer as well but a fair visual clone of the originals:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291466856010

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on August 25, 2015, 09:50 AM:

They look perfect for your requirements Steven! I look forward to seeing a photo of these on your LP unit just as soon as you fit them

Posted by Alan Gouger (Member # 31) on August 25, 2015, 01:08 PM:

Thanks for the advice Andrew and Dominique !!

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on August 25, 2015, 02:32 PM:

Hope you get fixed up with one soon Alan. They're great!

Posted by Alan Gouger (Member # 31) on August 19, 2017, 10:49 PM:

Bumping this thread back to the top Ive been enjoying the Spondon full play for a while. Today I was using it with a GS1200
and stopped the GS mid film and the shaft snapped on the spondon take up. No damage to the film. I had no idea the shaft was so fragil. I adjusted the torgue before starting the movie just to the point where the reel started to turn, I guess Ive learned the hard way to kill the power on the spondon before stopping the projector. Time to put to use one of the links in this thread for a replacement motor. Warning to others be careful the shaft is not very robust.

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on August 19, 2017, 11:26 PM:

The shafts fitted to my own Spondon Long Play Unit are made from brass Alan.
They also have a form of nylon in the middle of the box section to make a slotted coupling membrane on the driven leg of the LPU.

I have stopped the Projector on many occasions while leaving the LPU still energized for short periods without any issues at all, but I do keep the take up torque to a minimum setting in order to allow the take up reel to still turn dependent on the amount of film mounted to it at any given time.

If you are saying the Brass square spindle section of the machine including screw thread and retaining collar is the part of the take up shaft that has sheared off, I'd be completely astonished Alan.

I'd expect the internal flexible membrane coupling to fail first in such circumstances and I wouldn't expect the Motor and gearbox on these to have sufficient torque to be able to shear off its own drive shaft.

Posted by Kevin Clark (Member # 211) on August 20, 2017, 03:30 AM:

Hello Alan

That is a very unusual outcome as I've owned three of these over the years and the original instructions advise you to turn the Spondon motor on first to take up the torque from the motionless projector then switch the projector on. I've left mine in a similar pause mode for twenty minutes or more whilst playing around with the projector and lenses thankfully with no similar outcome to yours

One thing to watch out for though - are you sure you had the torque switch (not the adjustable knob) set to project rather than rewind mode? In projection mode the torque control comes into play, in rewind mode the motor torque is full on which would add to the strain on the mechanism.

Spondon used about three different motor types over the years with varying shaft sizes - similar ones are available over here from RS Components if you could upload a picture I'm sure a new motor that fits can be found.

Kevin.

Posted by Alan Gouger (Member # 31) on August 20, 2017, 11:31 AM:

Thank you for the replies Andrew and Kevin. I was surprised when this happened I am sure I was in torque mode I was mid way through a reel of film and stopped the projector and next thing I no longer had tension on the spondon take up. I did not hear any noise when it happened. Before screening the reel I turned the torque adjustment just to the point the reel grabbed. One of those freak accidents. Here are a few pictures.

Edit: After making this post I noticed parts rattling inside the arm so I removed the end cap and one brass fitting with a screw fell out and a plastic bushing with a groove in it that looks like it mates with the brass fitting. Looking inside the arm the motor shaft is intact with a brass fitting attached to it. I do not yet have an understanding how these fit together and in what order but maybe something came loose and just needs to be put back in the proper order and tightened up. I have more pictures but forum restricts more then two pictures at a time. I will have to wait to post again following someone else post.

Edit #2: I figured out what happened, somehow the inner parts on the shaft loosened up and there was enough play it then allowed that plastic spacer to disengage. I reassembled everything and tightened her up and she is good as new again. Thanks to everyone who jumped in to help, what a wonderful resource of knowledge shared among friends:)

[ August 20, 2017, 01:18 PM: Message edited by: Alan Gouger ]

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on August 20, 2017, 02:12 PM:

This looks to me Alan, as though your gearbox has disintegrated rather than anything actually shearing from the shaft.

This is just off first glance I hasten to add and I'd only be able to tell for sure once the motor/ gearbox was removed.

One identical can be obtained from RS Components UK

The rest of your parts appear salvageable from what I can make out from the photographs.

All of your Spondon additional components look fine.

I am pleased you have been able to rebuild it Alan. [Smile]

Posted by Alan Gouger (Member # 31) on August 20, 2017, 02:33 PM:

I am up and running again but as you say Andrew I am going to order a new motor for back-up and a few other parts while they are still available you never know when you might need them.

Now I can get back to enjoying the rest of the film where I left off.

Tomorrow is the big eclipse I hope we all do not turn into werewolf's:)

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on August 20, 2017, 02:35 PM:

Good to hear Alan! [Smile]

Very well done for finding the issue and resolving it very very quickly. [Wink]

Posted by Alan Gouger (Member # 31) on August 20, 2017, 03:06 PM:

A few more pictures. Below you can see the brass fitting the spindle shaft fits into which then gets tightened by the screw. This somehow worked lose.
The plastic spacer mates between the motor shaft and its brass fitting and the brass fitting attached to the motor shaft.

Below you can see the brass fitting attached to the motor shaft.

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on August 20, 2017, 03:18 PM:

Ah yes Alan, just the couplings and nylon membrane to assemble.

At first it appeared the full length of the shaft from the gearbox, but of course these photographs now make it all much clearer.
At least nothing is sheared or damaged so no real harm done and an opportunity for you to see how they were first assembled just in case you should ever choose to change out the Motor/ gearbox unit.

Fairly well put together these all in all and the components were quality sourced or manufactured by Spondon.

Also if you ever hear a rhythmic clicking static discharge sound through your projectors loudspeakers when using it with one of these long play units,check all metallic rotating parts are isolated and insulated from the outer framework, hence the nylon spindle housings and nylon membrane in between the two coupling halves.

Posted by Kevin Clark (Member # 211) on August 20, 2017, 03:48 PM:

Great to hear you cracked it Alan - they are simple in design and those little motors tough and long lasting hence the weak link was the cause - the one I have now was repaired by Bill with a small circuit board fault - the other two I had were used regularly for about 15 years before I sold them - regretted it the moment they went hence the latest one I now own I will hang onto.

Andrew - I have never experienced any static playback problems with my LP units just wondering if it happens with a specific projector maybe due to plastic gate parts rather than metal which would better ground the film static wise during projection?

Kevin.

Posted by Andrew Woodcock (Member # 3260) on August 20, 2017, 04:07 PM:

It happens using the Motor as photographed above by Alan but I found it wasn't a motor issue as such.
I revisited the half couplings which were not sat entirely centrally in the box section and by centralizing the seated coupling and membrane, this sorted the issue.
I think one of shafts or brass halves was just touching on the one of the through holes in the box section framework when I first got it and was using it with a T610.

It no longer has the issue since though.

It was a rhythmic annoying clicking sound that was present once per revolution in the exact same spot and was electronically transmitted through the playback heads, amplifier and internal loudspeakers.

Prior to discovering the root cause, I used to earth the revolving motor shaft to eliminate the clicking sound.
Now I don't need to earth the unit.

Posted by Alan Gouger (Member # 31) on August 20, 2017, 06:18 PM:

Good catch Andrew and thanks for the alert.
Yes Kevin these units are built to last the torque of the motor is intense. Glad in my case it turned out to be a simple fix.

UBB.classic^TM 6.3.1.2