This is topic Slot-loader in forum 16mm Forum at 8mm Forum.


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Posted by Brian Collins (Member # 761) on November 21, 2008, 12:00 PM:
 
Can anyone explain to me what is a Slot-Loader? please
 
Posted by Jean-Marc Toussaint (Member # 270) on November 21, 2008, 12:35 PM:
 
More recent generation of projectors, like B&H TQ, Eiki/Elf SL, Elmo (or Kodak) CL. It's manual threading meets auto-threading. There's a channel, or slot, on the side of the projector, just slip the film through it, attach to take-up, turn knob and voila, projector is loaded and running. They are usually very gentle on films. Check out the Elmo 16Cl manual in the manual section and you'll see what I mean.
 
Posted by Michael O'Regan (Member # 938) on November 21, 2008, 01:14 PM:
 
The Eiki/Elf SL's are a bad design IMO. The rear sprocket is totally hidden from view - makes it difficult to ensure engagement with perfs.

The Elmos somewhat better in this regard.

-Mike
 
Posted by Claus Harding (Member # 702) on November 21, 2008, 03:43 PM:
 
Well now Mike.... [Big Grin] (just kidding)

Having several Eiki SSLs, I can vouch for the ease of operation, and I can honestly say I have never had any issue with the rear sprocket not picking up right.

Slot loaders, in my opinion, are marvelous designs, both for the super-simple loading and because you can "rock and roll" the film back and forth like a reel-to-reel recorder to cue the leader before engaging the sprockets.
Also, removing a reel halfway through is very simple and non-damaging.
(At times I wish my Elmo ST1200 had that design, even though its auto-threading is very reliable.)

Claus.
 
Posted by Michael O'Regan (Member # 938) on November 21, 2008, 05:45 PM:
 
Yep Claus, most other SL and SSL users would agree with you.

But, thats my feeling - call it an irrational fear of rear sprocket damage [Wink] [Wink]

A new syndrome for the Psychology textbooks.

-Mike

[ November 22, 2008, 04:53 AM: Message edited by: Michael O'Regan ]
 
Posted by Jean-Marc Toussaint (Member # 270) on November 22, 2008, 02:42 AM:
 
Michael, your fear is founded as I've seen many cases of tempermental Eikis damaging films. Chewing on films would be the exact word. But these were auto thread or manual thread machines.
 
Posted by John Whittle (Member # 22) on November 22, 2008, 01:17 PM:
 
Mike,

If the Eiki is in proper adjustment, it "sets" the film on the sprocket as you rotate the knob. It's the setting of the upper and lower loops that sets the film on the sprocket teeth.

On Self Thread Eiki machines, early models such as the ST, RT, and NT required you to trim the lead edge of the film so it would enter the gate properly. If the timing of the upper sprocket plate was off (usually due to someone not resetting it after removing the cam tank or just playing with the locking plate) then the timing of the sprocket holes to meet the claw would be off and you could get a jam on the upper loop in threading.

The SNT machine retracts the claw and thus this problem is resolved on the STN and the Eiki machines with the Bell & Howell badge.

John
 
Posted by Michael O'Regan (Member # 938) on November 22, 2008, 01:39 PM:
 
I'm sure you're correct, John.

It's just me - I guess that coming from a 35mm cinema background, I'm more comfortable when I can see clearly where my film is going.

[Smile]

-Mike
 
Posted by Maurice Leakey (Member # 916) on November 23, 2008, 09:37 AM:
 
Definitely.

It's quite a complex task lacing up a projector with a platter system, so perhaps we're lucky that no 35mm designers conceived a method of autothread.
 
Posted by Claus Harding (Member # 702) on November 23, 2008, 09:59 AM:
 
Maurice,

An auto-threading Norelco 35/70...Auch! Given the horsepower involved, when that went wrong, it would REALLY go wrong... [Eek!]

Claus
 
Posted by Michael O'Regan (Member # 938) on November 23, 2008, 11:54 AM:
 
Maurice,

We didn't have a platter system. We used a Westrex Tower with 12000ft reels. Threading was not difficult but, it had to be done correctly.

Won't be long now before all the projectionist will have to do will be to stick a little plastic disc in a slot and press PLAY!!! [Wink] [Razz]

-Mike
 
Posted by Graham Ritchie (Member # 559) on November 23, 2008, 01:49 PM:
 
Although I have both Eiki and B/H slot leaders I prefer the B/H due mainly to its three claw. I have been using this B/H 1680 GS for over 10 years, the projector has been very reliable no problems at all and being a slot loader its real easy to thread and un-thread, its my favourite 16mm machine.
 -
Graham.
 
Posted by Jim Schrader (Member # 9) on November 23, 2008, 03:02 PM:
 
I too have the B&H 2580 the B&H 3580 and eiki's version of the 3580 all in good working order although I make sure the sprockets are aligned on the pins before I start it as some films have gone off track but the nice thing is that these shut down once the loop is lost so no damage is done to the films I do have some where the films have gotten chewed but they still run and the only damage done was to have a few small marks on the picture.
I also have a Singer Insta-Load it is the same as the others bit in my opinion has a way better focus sharpness from cornere to corner.
 
Posted by Maurice Leakey (Member # 916) on November 24, 2008, 02:28 AM:
 
Claus

Do I understand that the Norelco was autothread?

Michael

I also worked on Westrex mechs and towers. As you say, lacing was quite easy, but it was always necessary to keep an eye on the take-up and adjust the speed tension as necessary particularly with a long film which came to the edge of the spool.
 
Posted by Michael O'Regan (Member # 938) on November 24, 2008, 04:30 AM:
 
Hi Maurice,

I think Claus was just kidding about the Norelco.

Did you ever used to have problems with brand new prints and sagging on the Westrex tower? Could be quite difficult at times to get the tension right, I found.

-Mike
 
Posted by Maurice Leakey (Member # 916) on November 24, 2008, 04:52 AM:
 
Mike

We started at 180, then immediately reduced to 100. Then progressively increased as the film ran, usually in increments of 10, finishing at about 160. If this was done prints didn't sag. But there were always exceptions to the rule!

Graham

I have a 1680G, how does your 1680GS differ? I can see one thing, an outlet (or inlet) at the front near the exciter lamp cover.
 
Posted by Michael O'Regan (Member # 938) on November 24, 2008, 01:29 PM:
 
Maurice,

It seemed only to happen with brand new previously unprojected prints.

Yep, those figures ring a bell. God bless your memory. To me it seems like a lifetime ago. I seem to recall the payout was set at 140?

-Mike
 
Posted by Maurice Leakey (Member # 916) on November 24, 2008, 02:08 PM:
 
Mike

Being a tiny Classic cinema I don't suppose we ever had new prints.

Large feed spool was set at 110. The small 6000' (for support programmme) were set to 80 on top and bottom.
 


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