8mm Forum: Eiki Anamorphic mount.

This is topic Eiki Anamorphic mount. in forum 16mm Forum at 8mm Forum.

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Posted by Martin Jones (Member # 1163) on August 28, 2009, 09:13 AM:

I want to fit an anamorphic to my NT 1. I have the swivelling mount for the lens ... BUT not the bar it swivels on which fixes into two holes in the mechanism plate.
Being of sound mind and reasonably practical I feel it's not a problem to make one. So can anyone who has one fitted to one of this range of machines (NT 0/1/2/3) supply me with the following measurements?

1. The overall length of the bar,
2. The width and depth of the bar (i.e. the size of it's cross section)?
The rest I can work out for myself from the hole positions on the machine.

Thanks in advance,
Martin

Posted by John Whittle (Member # 22) on August 28, 2009, 11:27 AM:

Actually if you've got the holder, you've got all you need. While brightly plated, the bars were different for NT/MS/SL/SSL machines but:

1. Make the bar long enough to clear the front of the lens and have the stop line up with the edge of the case. You could make this longer if you want to have a zoom lens attached to the front of your prime. The Eiki version had a slide on bar connector for their long version, but I had one made that was longer and then you have to attach a little extension to the case for the stop screw to set on.

2. The trick--and this is important--is getting the holder onto the end of the bar. You have a flat metal spring that provides the power to keep the lens in place. The temptation is to remove the 3mm screw and put the holder on the end of the bar and then put in the screw. This is bad because that screw is hardened and very brittle. Trying to turn it against the spring pressure will snap the head leaving you with a broken screw in the tapped hole and not way to afix the spring clip.

So after you've done your fitting and made sure that you've cut the D shape on the end of the bar in the proper orientation, put the spring back in with the screw (tight but not over tighten) and the put the holder on the end of the bar--I have to pry the spring back to get it on the flat side. Once on you'll be fine and then you can put the bar on the case.

To do that you have to remove the cam tank and the screws go from the inside of the case and screw into tapped holes in the bar (guess you could just drill holes and run screws through and put nuts on the outside if you didn't mind the appearance.)

Then all the discussions about claw positioning and protrusion will apply when you re-attach the cam tank. FWIW the tech spec on the claw protrustion in manual advance is six pieces of 16mm acetate film. All six pieces should be pulled through the gate with the manual advance. Then check framing with the framing lever centered, adjust the claw lever for centered picture which should put the image through your prime lens in the center and through your anamorphic in the center.

Same technique applies to the holder if you have either the "C" size of "D" size holder (and yes there was a "D" size holder for the portables not just the big Xenons).

John

Posted by Jose Artiles (Member # 471) on September 05, 2009, 09:04 PM:

I fix that problem in mine just making and aluminum adaptation that is attached in front of the lens....maybe this idea works well for you too

Posted by Steven J Kirk (Member # 1135) on September 05, 2009, 09:31 PM:

I think you only need to remove the transformer to get to the screws... Try that first before taking out the cam, etc.

Also, look at retort stands which are laboratory stands that make great lens stands. There are some on eBay UK now. I just got one. Search 'retort stand'.

Posted by Jean-Marc Toussaint (Member # 270) on September 06, 2009, 03:32 AM:

No, I've equipped two NTs in the past and the screws are easily accessible from the interior, no need to disassemble anything.

Posted by Martin Jones (Member # 1163) on September 06, 2009, 04:02 AM:

Thank you, gentlemen. I've already taken a look and decided that with the NT I should be able to reach the screws OK, probably without removing the transformer (but that's easy enough anyway, thanks to the Film-Tech Manual Archive). I've also determined that the locating flat on the mounting bar where it passes through the holder is in line with the mechanism panel so I am currently looking for a SQUARE metal bar that fits the circular hole. That will save me having to machine a flat. An ordinary (UK) door handle spindle is JUST too small, (damn!) but a toilet cistern one looks promising (may have to just ease a little off the corners). My vast junk boxes will have to reveal their secrets! I have a Proskar Anamorphic-16 with the correct barrel size to use on this one.
I keep you posted.
Martin.

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