8mm Forum: Krasnogorsk K-3 16mm Camera

This is topic Krasnogorsk K-3 16mm Camera in forum 16mm Forum at 8mm Forum.

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Posted by Tom Dee (Member # 4468) on February 17, 2016, 09:35 PM:

Has anyone on here own or used a Krasnogorsk K-3, if so I have heard a lot of info about removing the Loop Formers. Would like to hear what some people on this forum think about that.

Thanks

Posted by Luigi Castellitto (Member # 3759) on February 19, 2016, 05:12 PM:

I use the Krasnogorsk 3 for less than a year. I still have the loop formers, although the experts say that they aren't work well and they make jam more often the film. Maybe it's true, but I have not heard of removing the loop formers, the camera is brand new, I did not remove parts for now.
I follow, though, these advice (from a manual from an expert USA team), especially the part 12, I have to follow it almost every loading of film:
1. Select a clean dust-free area away from direct sunlight.
2. Wind the camera a few times (it winds counterclockwise).
3. Adjust the camera speed control knob to 8 frames-per-second.
4. Flip the camera over so that the lens is pointed to your left and remove the magazinecover. Place the cover down gently and try not to get it dirty.
5. Remove any empty daylight reels from the camera.
6. Spray a burst of compressed air into the magazine to blow away any dust or debris. Checkthe film gate by opening it slightly (or removing it). [To remove the film gate push it open to itswidest and gently pull it upwards.] If the gate does not appear to have any hairs or dustaccumulated don't clean it! If it is dirty use a Q-tip or orange wood stick to clean it. You shouldnever clean the gate with compressed air as some types can leave a harmful residue on the lensor mirror elements.
7. Unpack your unexposed film. Unroll approximately 18 inches of film and place the roll onthe top spindle of the magazine so that the film comes off the bottom of the roll. Remember topush the footage counter arm aside when placing the film on the spindle.
8. Place the end of the film into the feed side (top) of the sprocket assembly. If the end of thefilm is jagged use scissors or the film cutter located inside the magazine to trim it straight.
9. Slowly feed the film into the sprocket assembly by pressing the trigger on the front of thecamera. Watch the film carefully, if it starts to jam push, pull, or guide the film as necessarythrough the camera until it has emerged from the take up side of the sprocket assembly.
10. The film should be pressed against the plastic guides located at the top and bottom of thegate (this is your film loop). If the film has pulled away try to adjust it to the proper size by gentlypulling film into the loop from the feed side of the sprocket assembly. You can open the sprocketassembly on the feed or take-up side to make adjusting the loop easier by lifting the smoothround pin (#25 in diagram) on the bottom or top of the assembly.
11. Run some film (at least two feet) and make sure the film is running through the cameraproperly. If running properly the film will emerge without scratches or ripped sprocket holes fromthe take up side of the sprocket assembly.
12. If you notice the pressure plate pulsing in and out as you run film, this means the pulldownclaw is not engaging the film properly. Pull out the pressure plate and slide the film so that thepulldown claw is engaged. You might have to shorten the take-up loop.
13. Wind the excess film snugly around an empty daylight reel by turning the reel in aclockwise direction. Then place the reel onto the take up spindle.
14. Replace the side cover and lock it in place.
15. You are ready to film! If you hear a sudden change of sound from the magazine whilefilming it may be a good idea to check on it. Opening the camera in the middle of a roll will onlyexpose approximately four to eight feet of film. If your camera should for some reason jam, try toadjust the film so that it runs smoothly. In the event you have to rip the film to free it eitherremove the original take up real and start another by following the loading sequence, or splicethe film back together but make sure you make a note of the film break for the lab

Posted by Nikolay Kravchenko (Member # 4381) on February 20, 2016, 09:59 AM:

I use "Krasnogorsk-3" from 1983, but I don't remove any parts.

Posted by David Pringle (Member # 5158) on February 23, 2016, 08:13 AM:

Tom
I own a K3 and removed the loop formers. As you have read the formers have the potential to scratch the emulsion. If dont want to risk this they are easy enough to remove with some decent screwdrivers and a steady hand. Its easy enough to load the camera and form the loops by hand, much like the difference bettween auto and manual thread projectors.

The K3 can shoot great footage as seen here ( not my footage btw)
I would use mine more but lack of processing labs in the UK is an issue

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cFy1NjRsdrI

Posted by Luigi Castellitto (Member # 3759) on February 24, 2016, 05:09 AM:

There are two schools of thought: who prefer to keep loop formers, who does not. It is true that they are easy to remove, but I, as I said, I have a new camera, so I prefer not to disassemble anything.

The film posted ny Dave is very good, Krasnogorsk is always a great camera.

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