This is topic Help needed with B&H TQ1 (655) in forum 16mm Forum at 8mm Forum.
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Posted by David Fouracre (Member # 3883) on June 30, 2018, 06:42 AM:
I could use some help.PLEASE
Does anyone have the sprocket timing template OR a sized cardboard copy of this template.I have replaced the worm gear and thought I had done the worst bit! But even looking at the printed manual picture of the template (which is NOT to scale) and aproximating the sprocket positions, is just not it seems good enough.
The machine has had a number of effective mods which I have effected over the years,without problem, but this timing problem, without the appropriate timing template, could mean scrapping an old and trusted friend.
If you can help, with a loaned template original, or copy, any postage charges would of course be re-imbursed.
If you have any suggestions or alternative routes I could take, I would appreciate any contributions.
Posted by Robert Crewdson (Member # 3790) on June 30, 2018, 07:08 AM:
There is a video on Youtube, or was, showing how to replace the worm gear on a TQ1, and I think this might help with your timing problem.
Posted by David Fouracre (Member # 3883) on June 30, 2018, 08:31 AM:
Thank you for that.
I have seen the video, but it does not resolve correcting timing of sprockets. It would apprear only the timing template will resolve this problem.
Thanks for response anyway.
Posted by Simon McConway (Member # 219) on June 30, 2018, 02:02 PM:
I have changed a fair few worm gears over the years and timed the lower sprocket as follows, with success. Simply thread some leader/scrap film by placing the mech in autothread and using the inching knob to inch the film through. Once the film exits after the second sprocket, stop inching and pull the film to free the auto thread film guides. On the rear of the shaft of the bottom sprocket is a large gear. Undo the small grub screw (all of this at the rear). I think there may even be two. Holding the gear, turn the sprocket so that the bottom loop is formed to the correct size, then tighten up the grub screw. If there are two, don't forget to tighten the other one. Repeat the inching through of the old film, and pull the film once it exits. Check the size of the bottom loop. Adjust if needed, again. I've always done it this way, having copied the technique from an ex B & H engineer I watched working on a machine. Top sprocket never needed adjusting, but if it does then follow the manual. In many respects though, the manual is fairly useless you'll find.
Posted by David Fouracre (Member # 3883) on June 30, 2018, 04:08 PM:
I thank you for that info, and will report back.
Posted by David Fouracre (Member # 3883) on July 01, 2018, 05:32 AM:
Have followed your guidlines a number of times and all seems ok, loops conforming to size, but as soon as the mech is powered all hell breaks out, with loss of loops and torn perfs!
It would appear I am still missing something.
Posted by Simon McConway (Member # 219) on July 01, 2018, 06:37 AM:
Check the black loop restorer, just as the film leaves the actual gate. This should be free to move up and down. Without film threaded and with the projector running, if you push this up is should vibrate fairly vigorously. If not, the lever itself could be seized. Either free up or suspect that the lever (at the rear) which it is connected to is not aligned or not connecting with the mech. This can easily be knocked out of alignment when the worm is replaced. It is a fairly thin metal lever.
The only other thing to check is the claw. Is this penetrating enough or even too much.
Posted by David Fouracre (Member # 3883) on July 01, 2018, 07:01 AM:
Thanks again Simon.
The operation continues!
Posted by David Fouracre (Member # 3883) on July 02, 2018, 07:14 AM:
I believe I may have come to the end of use with my TQ1.
Having replaced the worm gear some 8 years ago, and had no problems until a few weeks ago, when the auto threading started to give problems. This TQ1 has given me fantastic service, from purchasing some 10 years ago as a second hand projector.
I have tried all suggestions (both from the manual and kind forum advice) without success and have now expended some 30 hours on what should be a simple adjustment!
Most users fear the failure of the notorious old worm gear and this puts people off this series of machine. The TQ1 is a serious piece of solid quality engineering without doubt.
I myself, managed to overcome the worm change operation, with little hassle, but am now asking if there are any UK engineers who will accept these mech`s for calibration?
The picture head is out of the projector, so can be packed easily
and safely for shipping.
If anyone can offer service/alignment or can point me to the right engineer, that would be most appreciated.
Failing a resolution, this unit becomes a source of spares I think, although the TQ1 is so reliable, they would probably never
[ July 02, 2018, 08:25 AM: Message edited by: David Fouracre ]
Posted by Robert Crewdson (Member # 3790) on July 02, 2018, 09:05 AM:
I can only think of Kevin Brown; if you're as attached to your TQ1 as I am , it's worth spending the money.
Posted by David Fouracre (Member # 3883) on July 02, 2018, 09:52 AM:
Would you have contact details for Kevin please.
I am fond of the TQ1 and although I have 3 Eiki`s, still favour the B&H. Thanks,
Posted by Maurice Leakey (Member # 916) on July 02, 2018, 11:05 AM:
I do not think that Kevin would take on the job of rescue in the circumstances as mentioned.
However, it may be worth a try.
Posted by David Fouracre (Member # 3883) on July 02, 2018, 11:23 AM:
Sincere thanks for that.
I have emailed Kevin, so we live in hope.
Posted by David Fouracre (Member # 3883) on July 02, 2018, 04:43 PM:
Just spoken to Kevin and received a few very positive pointers to further check out.
I am rechecking those suggested items, and if these checks fail
to resolve the problem, Kevin says he will accept the projector to lay on healing hands!
So again, thanks to all for your contributions and help.
Posted by Maurice Leakey (Member # 916) on July 03, 2018, 02:21 AM:
I'm glad that things are moving more smoothly.
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